Diamond Professional 1 piece roll issue

GoldCrown

GoldCrown

Pool players have more balls
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If the 3 is slow rolled/lagged it will turn towards the 4 and miss the pocket
Lag the 1 ball toward center diamond and it rolls straight.
The roll begins as the ball passes the 3rd diamond from the head rail.
I'd post a video but do not know how.

Thanks for all replies.
 

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Had this exact thing on mine after the ititial setup, swear it got worse after about a month of use. Got my own 8" Starrett level and slate was off over 3 lines in areas, 2 to 3 lines in most. Over half the leveling wedges, especially the center wedges weren't even touching the slate, so slate was mostly low in the center. Also my cloth stretch was really horrible and twisted, and intensified the off roll in one corner. To top it off, balls slow rolled past the center pockets, would move out then back in.
First thing I did was to adjust all the wedge bolts by hand till the wedges just touched the slates. Then every week or so, I started raising the center wedges 2 bolt head flats a week. The reason I didn't just bring it up to level all at once was I was really afraid of breaking the superglue joint on the slates if I went too much at once. Took months to get to a reasonable level. Nothing I can do about the bad stretch, and that will half to wait another year or so till I have it recovered. Where a slow roll cuuld be off up to 3/4"+ on the original setup, I am now down to about an 1/16"-3/16" on all corners except one, where the cloth stretch curve pulls it out more to about 1/4". The level did sink to the center about another line on the level after another year or so, and I have since adjusted it back. A one piece slate would be simple, could just do it all at one time.
Diamond has a great video on how to level, although there is a couple of things they don't discuss. One how to back off leveling bolts, quite simple if you think about it. Then there is something they casually mention, without explaining, and that is having the top on when leveling. They say to have it on, but don't mention bolted down or loose. I just loosened the rails in the areas that were affected by my leveling. Not much of an issue when bringing up the center, but I had one end slate that was up twords the center, but down 3 lines on the outer edge. I was a little concerned when I realized that raising the outer wedges was actually trying to pull the slate joint apart.
While the framework on my professional is massive, it is still wood, and from what I have seen, will move some over time, even though it's slightly. Would not be noticed without a high quality level.
My table is in a heated and air-conditioned space.
 
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tomatoshooter said:
That's a shame it wasn't installed properly, that's a big investment to not be right.
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What makes it worse is we need a detective to find someone to straighten it out after the fact. The master table techs are on the back of a milk carton…. Or the wait is extreme. And I’m too old to fiddle or I’d DYI.
Group hug needed.
 
Next. The balls tend to hang up on edge of corner pockets when on a soft stroke. Mainly the front 2. I can’t feel anything that would cause a ball to hang. Any thoughts.
 
GoldCrown said:
Next. The balls tend to hang up on edge of corner pockets when on a soft stroke. Mainly the front 2. I can’t feel anything that would cause a ball to hang. Any thoughts.
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Likely excessive amounts of glue. Possibly slate was not prepped properly. (removing any glue from the top edge of pockets and top of slate)
Were you able to correct your rollout issues?
 
Sheldon said:
Likely excessive amounts of glue. Possibly slate was not prepped properly. (removing any glue from the top edge of pockets and top of slate)
Were you able to correct your rollout issues?
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Have not addressed the rollout yet. Might live with it for now. I will keep you posted. Would like to calibrate level first. Ball rolls out on lag/pocket speed. As for the slate not being prepped properly….nothing was really done to it both times. That makes sense.
Thanks for your reply.
 
Renegade_56 said:
you don't know how to level the slate on your pool table, but you feel qualified to calibrate a precision level?
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I’m all hands and pretty handy. I have friends and neighbors that can do things right. Let’s continue… how do we learn? Please explain the nature of your post... thanks for your support/encouragement/contribution to the conversation.

There is such a thing called "Pay Someone" if a DIY fails. And I'd pay again (3rd time) to have it done properly. It's real hard to find a mechanic to set up and apply the cloth.... if so this thread would not exist. Are you familiar with Diamond 1 piece tables?
 
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GoldCrown said:
I’m all hands and pretty handy. I have friends and neighbors that can do things right. Let’s continue… how do we learn? Please explain the nature of your post... thanks for your support/encouragement/contribution to the conversation.

There is such a thing called "Pay Someone" if a DIY fails. And I'd pay again (3rd time) to have it done properly. It's real hard to find a mechanic to set up and apply the cloth.... if so this thread would not exist. Are you familiar with Diamond 1 piece tables?
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I am familiar with 1 pc slates and 3 pc slates. I have owned and set up both.

The point being, if you can't figure out why a ball rolls downhill and decide how to change the table setup to eliminate it then I don't think calibrating a precision Starret level, (which is probably already calibrated) is a great idea. Sorry if that hurts your feelings, but it'll probably save you buying a precision level then making it useless.
 
Renegade_56 said:
I am familiar with 1 pc slates and 3 pc slates. I have owned and set up both.

The point being, if you can't figure out why a ball rolls downhill and decide how to change the table setup to eliminate it then I don't think calibrating a precision Starret level, (which is probably already calibrated) is a great idea. Sorry if that hurts your feelings, but it'll probably save you buying a precision level then making it useless.
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You can’t hurt my feelings. I’m married twice. I can handle anything. Seriously I don’t need to be saved. I’m having fun. I can figure out what I have to. Please don’t tell me there is no Santa Clause. You made your point. Point taken. No need to continue. If I get stuck I’ll get in touch.
 
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Should be calibrated when you get it, although mine was just a touch off. Pretty simple to do, if you can't figure it out, there are youtubes out there.
 
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muskyed said:
Should be calibrated when you get it, although mine was just a touch off. Pretty simple to do, if you can't figure it out, there is youtubes out there.
[/QUOTE[
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Mines off a CH when turning 180
 
When calibrating, use as flat a surface as you can, I wouldn't recommend doing it on a table with cloth on it. Use something like a framer's square so you can place the level very accurately when flipping it 180. Don't worry if your surface is not perfectly level, just make sure that when you flip it around, the reading is exactly the same. Get a wrench and adjust the nuts on the side of the vial until you get there.

iiknrUZ.jpeg
 
Sheldon said:
When calibrating, use as flat a surface as you can, I wouldn't recommend doing it on a table with cloth on it. Use something like a framer's square so you can place the level very accurately when flipping it 180. Don't worry if your surface is not perfectly level, just make sure that when you flip it around, the reading is exactly the same. Get a wrench and adjust the nuts on the side of the vial until you get there.

iiknrUZ.jpeg
Click to expand...

Thanks again and mostly thank you for your contributions to AZB. It makes a difference. It matters.
 
GoldCrown said:
Mines off a CH when turning 180
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A CH is close enough, you can be off that much easily by not looking at the precision vial from exact dead center. Get your slates level with that and cover them, then slow roll balls and fine tune the playing surface as 1 piece to eliminate any roll off.

Not sarcasm, I really am trying to help you. You cannot depend on and 8" level for a 100 inch playing surface. The level is only accurate to .005" per foot which can be about 3/64" overall. Slow rolling balls is the nuts.
 
Rene..Here’s the scoop. Table is staying as is. It’s playing ok and and the roll is not critical. I’ll let my opponent have that pocket. I returned the level. I don’t have to deal with anything. I’M FREE!!
 
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Sheldon said:
When calibrating, use as flat a surface as you can, I wouldn't recommend doing it on a table with cloth on it. Use something like a framer's square so you can place the level very accurately when flipping it 180. Don't worry if your surface is not perfectly level, just make sure that when you flip it around, the reading is exactly the same. Get a wrench and adjust the nuts on the side of the vial until you get there.

iiknrUZ.jpeg
Click to expand...
Yeah, that didn't strike me as a difficult job. Just pick up and place the level several times to make sure you are getting the same reading. If those aren't the same then you aren't using a good surface or you aren't placing it in the same place. I do that to levels before I get to the cash register, except one time :(.
 
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