Reverse tenon ferrule on a wood shaft

SSDiver2112

Escott Cues
While watching the latest Studiotronics cue making video I saw that he puts the tenon on the ferrule and screws it into the shaft. I know the carbon fiber shafts have a similar design, but I hadn't heard of this on a wooden shaft. Is this technique common or is he pioneering his or a new idea? Does it have any benefit for a wood shaft?

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So I bought an older 314 to do a comparison. It's pretty even with one I did with a 5/16 bore and about the same diameter. So they must have a pretty thin light ferrule on those 314s. As a side note, the 314 hits pretty good.
 
So I bought an older 314 to do a comparison. It's pretty even with one I did with a 5/16 bore and about the same diameter. So they must have a pretty thin light ferrule on those 314s. As a side note, the 314 hits pretty good.
Very thin walled ferrule with a relatively thick cap on it. This is why you can't really turn them down much, you run out of ferrule material pretty quickly.
 
Very thin walled ferrule with a relatively thick cap on it. This is why you can't really turn them down much, you run out of ferrule material pretty quickly.
Was thinking about trying to make one like that from tomahawk but looking at the machining qualities I think it may be a bit above my pay grade. Thanks for the info.
 
Tomahawk works really well for these
I was thinking of not even trying it because of the warnings about how hard it is to machine from the guy that introduced it, said it was for professional cue makers and repair people etc. I did some today and I was pleasantly surprised, and I'm pretty sure I don't have the sharpest tools.
 
I was thinking of not even trying it because of the warnings about how hard it is to machine from the guy that introduced it, said it was for professional cue makers and repair people etc. I did some today and I was pleasantly surprised, and I'm pretty sure I don't have the sharpest tools.
It does machine a bit weird if you don't have your tooling set up properly. Great material though, tough stuff and not too heavy.
 
It does machine a bit weird if you don't have your tooling set up properly. Great material though, tough stuff and not too heavy.
It did get weird when I tried to install it and flatten the top for the tip. It feels soft but it's not. To be honest, I know this is a little lighter than juma and deflects less I kind of like the hit of juma more. It was a good experiment though.
Thanks for the help.
 
It does machine a bit weird if you don't have your tooling set up properly. Great material though, tough stuff and not too heavy.
Any chance you could expand on the "set up properly" above? The biggest problem I had is when trying to flatten the surface to ready for a tip it kept crowning on my a bit. I've gotta think the work was deflecting away from the cut.
I'm thinking maybe not sharp enough tooling, not in headstock tight enough, headstock moving a bit on the bed, tool post not tight enough. And maybe if I had sharp enough tooling the rest wouldn't have mattered.
Thanks again.
 
I think you found your own solution. I sharpen my HSS tooling before every tip change and don’t have a problem with a crown on the Tomahawk ferrule. I can tell when the HSS tool is sharp when the material comes off in thin tight spirals. Hope this helps.
I don't make bits but I do need to touch them up. I did some searching and saw in an older post that you use diamond stone to do the sharpening. Do you still do that? Thanks
 
I don't make bits but I do need to touch them up. I did some searching and saw in an older post that you use diamond stone to do the sharpening. Do you still do that? Thanks
I have been a hobbyist woodworker for many years; long before I bought a Cuesmith lathe to work on my own pool cues. I’ve been sharpening my own chisels, etc. for years. A friend told me about white aluminum oxide grinding wheels and I use them to sharpen tools now. I also use varying grits of sandpaper to touch up when needed. Works great for me; hope this helps.

 
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