Just got my table in today. Factory is definitely up and running.Is this all that’s available?
Haven’t they fixed that factory yet?
I think that’s the colors I’m leaning toward.Is this all that’s available?
Haven’t they fixed that factory yet?
Both are good colors to play on. Biggest problem with the light gray is you would need light gray chalk with it, to avoid chalk marks that would really stand out.Your preferred preference if only these two colors in Simonis. Light grey or powder blue? I’ve not had the opportunity to see in person or play on either color.
Masters is ok...V10 is perfect.Both are good colors to play on. Biggest problem with the light gray is you would need light gray chalk with it, to avoid chalk marks that would really stand out.
You mean Taom V10 I assume?Masters is ok...T10 is perfect.
yes...corrected. ThanksYou mean Taom V10 I assume?
I have a slate gray Centennial, use either Taom Pyro or V10. No chalk marks. Had a few with old style blue chalk, but that is now banned and after a few vacuumings they are gone. Bunches of burn marks, but I’ve gone to high end phenolic balls and pads for practicing to keep those down. Like the color, nice contrast with traditional ball colors. Probably not in for new cloth for at least a couple years, but would go gray again If available. It is a nice neutral color that doesn’t dominate the room.Both are good colors to play on. Biggest problem with the light gray is you would need light gray chalk with it, to avoid chalk marks that would really stand out.
Or Taom V10 (light green) which doesn’t accumulate on any color.Both are good colors to play on. Biggest problem with the light gray is you would need light gray chalk with it, to avoid chalk marks that would really stand out.