Weight of the finish

SSDiver2112

SSDiver2112

Escott Cues
I am trying to plan for the final weight of the cue. Is the weight of the finish significant enough to consider, and if so is there an average figure to add in?


Update: The first cue is completed, and the weight of the finish is 0.8 oz.
 
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SSDiver2112 said:
I am trying to plan for the final weight of the cue. Is the weight of the finish significant enough to consider, and if so is there an average figure to add in?
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No one can really answer that for you.
There is an average but it's based on your own finishing techniques.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
OK thanks, I am moving from CA to epoxy and Solarez. I will do some experiments on a dowel to see if I can get a perceptible difference.
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Just from my perspective as a hobbyist wood worker, but non-cuemaker, I'd be interested to hear the results.

Thanks.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
OK thanks, I am moving from CA to epoxy and Solarez. I will do some experiments on a dowel to see if I can get a perceptible difference.
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Weigh the finish before you put it on. Neither Solarez or epoxy generally change weight as they cure.

As a quick calculation, if your finish was 0.010" thick, you'd have on the order of 0.3 cubic inches of epoxy. Epoxy is around 0.6 oz/ci, so you would expect maybe 0.2oz.
 
I usually mix about 5g of epoxy, most of that is sanded away. Then I do the same again and most of that is sanded away. So I've used 10g and probably 7g is sanded away. Then I spray clear, I usually mix 20g for each cue. 1/4 is lost in overspray and half of the remaining weight is sanded off, so the finish weights about 6-10g I would guess, which matches the 0.2oz. Dee mentioned.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
Weigh the finish before you put it on. Neither Solarez or epoxy generally change weight as they cure.

As a quick calculation, if your finish was 0.010" thick, you'd have on the order of 0.3 cubic inches of epoxy. Epoxy is around 0.6 oz/ci, so you would expect maybe 0.2oz.
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Kim Bye said:
I usually mix about 5g of epoxy, most of that is sanded away. Then I do the same again and most of that is sanded away. So I've used 10g and probably 7g is sanded away. Then I spray clear, I usually mix 20g for each cue. 1/4 is lost in overspray and half of the remaining weight is sanded off, so the finish weights about 6-10g I would guess, which matches the 0.2oz. Dee mentioned.
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Thank you for the help. The few cues I have repaired so far, I didn't need to worry about keeping the weight to the fraction of an oz. I used CA because it was easier and less expensive for just getting started. I am converting a couple of old house cues for someone and want to get the weight he requested right. Now I have added a setup to be able to apply a better finish.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
Weigh the finish before you put it on. Neither Solarez or epoxy generally change weight as they cure.

As a quick calculation, if your finish was 0.010" thick, you'd have on the order of 0.3 cubic inches of epoxy. Epoxy is around 0.6 oz/ci, so you would expect maybe 0.2oz.
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I’d like to ask you a couple other questions.
First after applying the epoxy do you keep spinning the lathe for six hours or can it be stopped earlier without affecting the finish?

Is the finish on the first few inches of the shaft the same process as the butt or do you finish it differently?
 
SSDiver2112 said:
I’d like to ask you a couple other questions.
First after applying the epoxy do you keep spinning the lathe for six hours or can it be stopped earlier without affecting the finish?

Is the finish on the first few inches of the shaft the same process as the butt or do you finish it differently?
Click to expand...

I've not used epoxy as a finish. I spun Solarez for about an hour before cure to let any bubbles come out.

Probably better to ask some others who use epoxy more often.

Sorry I'm not more help.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
I've not used epoxy as a finish. I spun Solarez for about an hour before cure to let any bubbles come out.

Probably better to ask some others who use epoxy more often.

Sorry I'm not more help.
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Kim Bye said:
I usually mix about 5g of epoxy, most of that is sanded away. Then I do the same again and most of that is sanded away. So I've used 10g and probably 7g is sanded away. Then I spray clear, I usually mix 20g for each cue. 1/4 is lost in overspray and half of the remaining weight is sanded off, so the finish weights about 6-10g I would guess, which matches the 0.2oz. Dee mentioned.
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Thanks I meant to include Kim Bye as well since you both helped me before.
 
I was hoping for an answer to these additional questions. I am bumping this up in hopes someone may answer.

First after applying the epoxy, do you keep spinning the lathe for six hours or can it be stopped earlier without affecting the finish?

When you finish the first few inches of the shaft, do you use the same process as the butt or is there a different technique or finish to use?

Thanks,
Scott
 
SSDiver2112 said:
I was hoping for an answer to these additional questions. I am bumping this up in hopes someone may answer.

First after applying the epoxy, do you keep spinning the lathe for six hours or can it be stopped earlier without affecting the finish?

When you finish the first few inches of the shaft, do you use the same process as the butt or is there a different technique or finish to use?

Thanks,
Scott
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Butt, shafts, and caps are all finished with the same technique.
As far as using epoxy for a finish it would be hard to tell you how long to let it spin not knowing what you're using and when it's going to start setting up.
I use epoxy for the sealer and base coat before spraying. I scrape it pretty thin before I pull it out of the lathe and stand it up in a rack to let it dry. The epoxy I use is pretty thin and watery for the soak in effect and generally flashes over in less than an hour. Can usually sand it back within 24 to 48 hrs for the second coat. It powders off nice.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
I was hoping for an answer to these additional questions. I am bumping this up in hopes someone may answer.

First after applying the epoxy, do you keep spinning the lathe for six hours or can it be stopped earlier without affecting the finish?

When you finish the first few inches of the shaft, do you use the same process as the butt or is there a different technique or finish to use?

Thanks,
Scott
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I've never really timed it but I do spin mine for 3-6 hours for a few reasons. One being I stopped it to early once and it was still moving which resulted in a super thick coat on one side vrs the other and I'm rarely building more than 1 or 2 at a time so Im not rushing to use that spinner, and very important you have to take in account room temperature for dry time.

I use CA on my shafts
 
Same basecoat on shaft and butt. Cure time depends on several factors, I just let it spin until it's dry to the touch, 5-6 hours ish usually does it. I tend to wait 48 hours before sanding. If you're in a hot climate I guess it cures faster. My experience tells me that temperature and humidity plays a part in how the finishing process goes.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Butt, shafts, and caps are all finished with the same technique.
As far as using epoxy for a finish it would be hard to tell you how long to let it spin not knowing what you're using and when it's going to start setting up.
I use epoxy for the sealer and base coat before spraying. I scrape it pretty thin before I pull it out of the lathe and stand it up in a rack to let it dry. The epoxy I use is pretty thin and watery for the soak in effect and generally flashes over in less than an hour. Can usually sand it back within 24 to 48 hrs for the second coat. It powders off nice.
Click to expand...
Kim Bye said:
Same basecoat on shaft and butt. Cure time depends on several factors, I just let it spin until it's dry to the touch, 5-6 hours ish usually does it. I tend to wait 48 hours before sanding. If you're in a hot climate I guess it cures faster. My experience tells me that temperature and humidity plays a part in how the finishing process goes.
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Thank you for the feedback. I am in a hot climate, South Florida, so humid too, but I work in a room with AC. I have applied three coats of Max CLR epoxy to the cue. I meant to buy 1618, but clicked on the wrong one by mistake. My experiments on a dowel came out nice so I think it will be ok. If you know of any issue with Max CLR over 1618 please let me know. I plan to let is sit for a few days and then I will sand it down and apply Solarez for the final coats.
 
PracticeChampion said:
I've never really timed it but I do spin mine for 3-6 hours for a few reasons. One being I stopped it to early once and it was still moving which resulted in a super thick coat on one side vrs the other and I'm rarely building more than 1 or 2 at a time so Im not rushing to use that spinner, and very important you have to take in account room temperature for dry time.

I use CA on my shafts
Click to expand...
While experimenting on a dowel I burned up the motor and it stopped early and gravity took over. I am doing the finishing work on my DIY lathe and the motor was too weak. I replaced it with Consew servo motor and it worked great. I let it spin the entire time with no issues.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
While experimenting on a dowel I burned up the motor and it stopped early and gravity took over. I am doing the finishing work on my DIY lathe and the motor was too weak. I replaced it with Consew servo motor and it worked great. I let it spin the entire time with no issues.
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That consew is a great motor!
I put together a spinner station using a 5 rpm 12/24 volt motor found on Amazon
 
I had to wait a while for the timing gear to get here from china to replace the pulley but it works great.

IMG_5516.jpeg
 
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