Anyone Use A Rhino Carbon Fiber Shaft?

For $150 I dove in to the CF pool.....My initial review is as follows. (as compared to a long time use of P314)

Payment - Paypal (my Pay Pal is attached to a credit card)

Shipping - Standard shipping....shaft was packaged inside a plastic tube (wrapped in plastic) that was inside a Rhino box packaged inside a shipping box.

Dirty Dirty....turns your hand black from the CF dust....I got some tissue paper and wiped it down real good to get all the CF dust off.
Ice Skating Slick.......Not a fan of overly slick shafts...I like smooth with a slight drag...(why IDK).....I have always taken a dab of baby oil on tissue to a brand new wood shaft to start that oil sheen that usually builds up from your hands during play....I never clean that off....I just use leather on it and burnish it in to the wood....It creates that nice candy coating look and helps protect the wood from dings.....I decided to give the CF shaft the baby oil treatment....wiped it down and a whole ton of black came off....wiped it a few times until I stopped getting black....The shaft is still very slick but now has that touch of drag I like....Ok...we are in business.

The hit....long (pro taper) but on the stiff side (as compared to a P314)....The stiffer hit means a little different timing on the draw shot to get results....Over time probably a bit more consistent and manageable for draw control than a P314

The hit sound......slightly different from a wood shaft but nothing as drastic as when Golf went from persimmon woods to the Taylor Made Burner.........To this day that "tink" sound annoys me......CF sound is close enough that it does not bother me.

Deflection.....seemingly ZERO.....BHE will NOT work with this shaft....must use PHE.......This also means you MUST have a straight stroke with this shaft.....With a P314 as long as you hold your bridge solid...if your tip strays for your intended contact point...the CB would deflect and you would still make the shot....That does not happen with the CF shaft.......I always set up starting through center CB....With my P314 I could (while holding my bridge solid) could err to the left or right to apply english on the final stroke......Using that method with the CF shaft produces wild misses.....However.....a PHE from center CB and I get the same results....not quite as easy as BHE but still a simple process of setting up your left or right edge of shaft to center CB to apply the desired English.....(testing was done with the short (and long) straight in shots where the CB stops dead and spins like a top)....Overall I think once I adjust to the process and get a better feel for the shaft I will like this better as BHE tends to fail on longer shots....I see good results so far on long shots applying english with the CF shaft.

TIP.....MEH.....seems kind of soft on a stiff shaft....not horrible....not the best tip I ever had......I could do without the clear pad....A couple times already I looked and thought the tip was coming off...but it was just the clear pad....black or white would be fine.....or maybe even red or black two tone in the middle to create a small short center shaft line....something I will talk to my local cue guy...I could 3D print a pad that had a center mark.

FIT.....my cue is 21.5 at the joint.....the CF shaft matches up about as close to perfect as you can get without turning both pieces on a lathe together.

OVERALL......I can't imagine the Big Boy name brand CFs being much if any different.....perhaps they ship cleaner and don't turn your hand black IDK .......I am so far very happy with this shaft.
View attachment 730784
what is PHE?
thanks
thanks for your review
i should get mine one of these days
 
what is PHE?
thanks
thanks for your review
i should get mine one of these days
BHE - Back Hand English
PHE - Parallel Hand(s) English
FHE - Front Hand English is probably the common term.....I personally get consistent results with PHE (moving the whole cue....both hands)
 
BHE - Back Hand English
PHE - Parallel Hand(s) English
could you explain that please
i am unfamiliar with that term
parralell english to me means you have the shot line for center cue ball aiming and move parallel to the the shot line
my understanding is that does not work
but parrallel hand english i dont know what you mean
if you want to pm me to not derail the thread thats ok
 
For $150 I dove in to the CF pool.....My initial review is as follows. (as compared to a long time use of P314)

Payment - Paypal (my Pay Pal is attached to a credit card)

Shipping - Standard shipping....shaft was packaged inside a plastic tube (wrapped in plastic) that was inside a Rhino box packaged inside a shipping box.

Dirty Dirty....turns your hand black from the CF dust....I got some tissue paper and wiped it down real good to get all the CF dust off.
Ice Skating Slick.......Not a fan of overly slick shafts...I like smooth with a slight drag...(why IDK).....I have always taken a dab of baby oil on tissue to a brand new wood shaft to start that oil sheen that usually builds up from your hands during play....I never clean that off....I just use leather on it and burnish it in to the wood....It creates that nice candy coating look and helps protect the wood from dings.....I decided to give the CF shaft the baby oil treatment....wiped it down and a whole ton of black came off....wiped it a few times until I stopped getting black....The shaft is still very slick but now has that touch of drag I like....Ok...we are in business.

The hit....long (pro taper) but on the stiff side (as compared to a P314)....The stiffer hit means a little different timing on the draw shot to get results....Over time probably a bit more consistent and manageable for draw control than a P314

The hit sound......slightly different from a wood shaft but nothing as drastic as when Golf went from persimmon woods to the Taylor Made Burner.........To this day that "tink" sound annoys me......CF sound is close enough that it does not bother me.

Deflection.....seemingly ZERO.....BHE will NOT work with this shaft....must use PHE.......This also means you MUST have a straight stroke with this shaft.....With a P314 as long as you hold your bridge solid...if your tip strays for your intended contact point...the CB would deflect and you would still make the shot....That does not happen with the CF shaft.......I always set up starting through center CB....With my P314 I could (while holding my bridge solid) could err to the left or right to apply english on the final stroke......Using that method with the CF shaft produces wild misses.....However.....a PHE from center CB and I get the same results....not quite as easy as BHE but still a simple process of setting up your left or right edge of shaft to center CB to apply the desired English.....(testing was done with the short (and long) straight in shots where the CB stops dead and spins like a top)....Overall I think once I adjust to the process and get a better feel for the shaft I will like this better as BHE tends to fail on longer shots....I see good results so far on long shots applying english with the CF shaft.

TIP.....MEH.....seems kind of soft on a stiff shaft....not horrible....not the best tip I ever had......I could do without the clear pad....A couple times already I looked and thought the tip was coming off...but it was just the clear pad....black or white would be fine.....or maybe even red or black two tone in the middle to create a small short center shaft line....something I will talk to my local cue guy...I could 3D print a pad that had a center mark.

FIT.....my cue is 21.5 at the joint.....the CF shaft matches up about as close to perfect as you can get without turning both pieces on a lathe together.

OVERALL......I can't imagine the Big Boy name brand CFs being much if any different.....perhaps they ship cleaner and don't turn your hand black IDK .......I am so far very happy with this shaft.
View attachment 730784


Great review, I decided to make the jump on a Raven cues 11.8mm carbon at the same price point of the Rhino $199.00. They look extremely well made and are out of California. I will also be doing a review but of course it will be on the Raven! I'm hoping some ones checks out the Kamikaze 11.8, the only reason I didn't make the jump on that one is they are only available in 4.0oz standard right now also those are at a $300 price point, but also look quality made and won't break the bank!
 
First impressions after 2.5 hours of play. Remember these are 30" shafts so they will inherently feel different than the usual 29" shaft.

First these are well packed with 5 layers of protection including bubble wrap, a plastic sleeve over a plastic tube and double boxed. Impressive though not as fancy as my Cuetec or Whyte Carbon. No matter it's packaging and arrived with no damage and no carbon dust, which is what it's all about.

I ordered 2 shafts, a 12.6mm with a 5/16x14 joint and a 12.2 with a 3/8x8 Chinese radial joint which I'm told is slightly different than an American radial because of patents apparently.

Now for the good stuff, how do they play? Crisply and accurately are the terms that come to mind. Like the Cuetec they are low deflection but not zero deflection. Maybe slightly less than the Cuetec. The important thing is the deflection is consistent and reacts as expected the harder you hit your shot. This isn't true for cheap carbon shafts which I find deflect way too much on harder hits.

The medium tip helps. It's firmer than the How medium on my Cuetec and doesn't feel quite so spongy. I have a soft Kamui black clear which I consider bouncy. Yet the tip grips well. I prefer a crisp hit so I'm pleased.

The Cuetec plays fine and is easy to control, but the Rhinos give a bit more feedback with slightly more vibration, but not too much, with the Whyte Carbon having the most vibration. This is likely because the Rhino is an inch longer but the same weight.

It feels alive like my '80s Meucci but with lower deflection and is much easier to control. I like a live shaft. Again I'm pleased.

My first impressions are very positive and I feel no need to try a Predator which was in the back of my mind. These are quality shafts in my opinion and are a steal for $200.

I was able to break and run with no problem and delicate shots were a breeze. Oddly the 12.6mm felt more precise than the Cuetec. Let me get out the micrometer and check the sizes. Be right back.

Ok, the 12.2mm is dead on at 12.2 and the 12.6 measures 12.69. Odd because the Cuetec is 12.55mm.

Also the 30 inch Rhino12.2 weighs in at 3.8 ounces as does the 29 inch Cuetec. The 30 inch 12.6 Rhino is 4.1 ounces which makes sense as it has a metal pilot.

All very interesting. Only one problem remains. I can no longer blame my equipment when I screw up. 8-( LOL!
 
First impressions after 2.5 hours of play. Remember these are 30" shafts so they will inherently feel different than the usual 29" shaft.

First these are well packed with 5 layers of protection including bubble wrap, a plastic sleeve over a plastic tube and double boxed. Impressive though not as fancy as my Cuetec or Whyte Carbon. No matter it's packaging and arrived with no damage and no carbon dust, which is what it's all about.

I ordered 2 shafts, a 12.6mm with a 5/16x14 joint and a 12.2 with a 3/8x8 Chinese radial joint which I'm told is slightly different than an American radial because of patents apparently.

Now for the good stuff, how do they play? Crisply and accurately are the terms that come to mind. Like the Cuetec they are low deflection but not zero deflection. Maybe slightly less than the Cuetec. The important thing is the deflection is consistent and reacts as expected the harder you hit your shot. This isn't true for cheap carbon shafts which I find deflect way too much on harder hits.

The medium tip helps. It's firmer than the How medium on my Cuetec and doesn't feel quite so spongy. I have a soft Kamui black clear which I consider bouncy. Yet the tip grips well. I prefer a crisp hit so I'm pleased.

The Cuetec plays fine and is easy to control, but the Rhinos give a bit more feedback with slightly more vibration, but not too much, with the Whyte Carbon having the most vibration. This is likely because the Rhino is an inch longer but the same weight.

It feels alive like my '80s Meucci but with lower deflection and is much easier to control. I like a live shaft. Again I'm pleased.

My first impressions are very positive and I feel no need to try a Predator which was in the back of my mind. These are quality shafts in my opinion and are a steal for $200.

I was able to break and run with no problem and delicate shots were a breeze. Oddly the 12.6mm felt more precise than the Cuetec. Let me get out the micrometer and check the sizes. Be right back.

Ok, the 12.2mm is dead on at 12.2 and the 12.6 measures 12.69. Odd because the Cuetec is 12.55mm.

Also the 30 inch Rhino12.2 weighs in at 3.8 ounces as does the 29 inch Cuetec. The 30 inch 12.6 Rhino is 4.1 ounces which makes sense as it has a metal pilot.

All very interesting. Only one problem remains. I can no longer blame my equipment when I screw up. 8-( LOL!
Good takes. BTW, there is no such thing as 'zero deflection'. All shafts have some deflection. Just got mine and will test tomorrow.
 
I took the shaft to my local cue maker that made my cue for me....He said they all seem to do that in the beginning...He put the shaft on his lathe and cleaned it up for me and then waxed it...hit balls fo an hour after and only had chalk ok n the fingers...(I don't wear a glove)

Of note....he measured the shaft and it is actually 29.5....with the tip installed makes it 30....

I had him shape down the tip a bit as it came very to tall...
There was a guy on here that makes his own cf shafts, he said they'd leave black lines on his rails till he started waxing them. Guess waxing is the way to go.
On the other hand, I got a new revo, immediately hit is with one of the wipes that come with it and there was nothing on it so there must be a way, some last step, to stop that from happening.
 
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I took the shaft to my local cue maker that made my cue for me....He said they all seem to do that in the beginning...He put the shaft on his lathe and cleaned it up for me and then waxed it...hit balls fo an hour after and only had chalk ok n the fingers...(I don't wear a glove)

Of note....he measured the shaft and it is actually 29.5....with the tip installed makes it 30....

I had him shape down the tip a bit as it came very to tall...
AFAIK they just micro-sand down to get that slick outer. No sealers so there is some cf dust when new. I got mine last nite and first thing i did was wipe down with 90%alc. First couple wipes were black then after that it came pretty clean. A good wipe down should precede shipping.
 
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I think with CF shafts...Dr Dave may need to do a new video
@dr_dave has done several videos testing deflection with CF shafts — not the Rhino, but iirc the Revo, Cuetec, and Whyte. None of them have less deflection than non-CF LD shafts. The Revo matches up with the Z3, my Cuetec matches up with a 314, etc.

I doubt that Rhino has figured out a way to cheat the laws of physics - pure parallel English should not work on shots hit short or hard enough to prevent swerve. If they’re truly beating the Revo’s 19” pivot point by a significant amount, it would be a groundbreaking feat.
 
AFAIK they just micro-sand down to get that slick outer. No sealers so there is some cf dust when new. I got mine last nite and first thing i did was wipe down with 90%alc. First couple wipes were black then after that it came pretty clean. A good wipe down should precede shipping.
Viking claims there is no sanding with the siege, say they have a new way of putting the layers on that makes it unnecessary.
"increased radial consistency and a smooth, sealed, un-sanded outer surface that stays cleaner and glides smoothly across your skin".

It's a good story. I'm kinda tempted.
 
Viking claims there is no sanding with the siege, say they have a new way of putting the layers on that makes it unnecessary.
"increased radial consistency and a smooth, sealed, un-sanded outer surface that stays cleaner and glides smoothly across your skin".

It's a good story. I'm kinda tempted.
WhiteCarbon makes their shafts btw. Actually same co. now.
 
I think the key here is the deflection on the Rhino, based on my limited play so far, seems consistent and controllable and should be easy to adjust to for most folks.

I use a lot of spin and take on way more thin cuts than most players. I'm curious to see how well the Rhino does with these and that will take some time to find out. The Cuetec is easy to control and will give me a good comparison point. My issue with the Cuetec is it feels a bit deader than I'd like, but that may be tip selection. [shrugs]

I'll report my findings as I learn them. Shaft selection is subjective and personal. I like a crisp hit with predictable results yet consistent feedback from delicate to powerful strokes. I've been a Meucci fan, but don't like the occasional surprises on delicate spin shots, especially along the rails. Carbon fiber seems more predictable for these. The question for me is whether the Rhino is consistently accurate on the longer (with and without spin) shots that separate the men from the boys. Much of that is skill level and talent and it's easy to blame the arrow not the Indian.

Time will tell.
 
Viking claims there is no sanding with the siege, say they have a new way of putting the layers on that makes it unnecessary.
"increased radial consistency and a smooth, sealed, un-sanded outer surface that stays cleaner and glides smoothly across your skin".

It's a good story. I'm kinda tempted.
I have a Whyte Carbon but it's 11.85 mm and I can't control it well enough on strokes that require some speed. It's good otherwise and I blame my skill level and playing style more than the shaft. My big complaint is that it's expensive as hell.
 
Mine came clean, no black on the hand or rasil. Maybe some get wiped down before shipping and some don't? I have a second, break shaft, arriving soon. I'll do a quick wipe down before playing just to see how clean this one is and will report back.
 
a 12.2 with a 3/8x8 Chinese radial joint which I'm told is slightly different than an American radial because of patents apparently.
How does the knock off radial joint fit your real/patented/American radial pin?

Does anyone know if the 3/8x10 shaft is drilled for a modified 3/8x10 pin (which has a thicker minor diameter)?

What kind of tip is on the break shafts? The website says:

RHINO Special Cue Tip

Hard leather? Phenolic?

Current price:
Christmas Sale: 15% Off + Free Shipping + Extra Gift. From December 3rd - 31st - Only for the US Market
= $169.15
 
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How does the knock off radial joint fit your real/patented/American radial pin?

Does anyone know if the 3/8x10 shaft is drilled for a modified 3/8x10 pin (which has a thicker minor diameter)?

What kind of tip is on the break shafts? The website says:



Hard leather? Phenolic?

Current price:

= $169.15
On another thread here one of the master clubmakers said the American patented Radial is about 7.6 threads per inch iirc. The Chinese is 8 threads per inch.

The Rhino fits my cheap Chinese radial cue joint so it likely won't fit an American radial. Ask them, they respond quickly.
 
I think the key here is the deflection on the Rhino, based on my limited play so far, seems consistent and controllable and should be easy to adjust to for most folks.

I use a lot of spin and take on way more thin cuts than most players. I'm curious to see how well the Rhino does with these and that will take some time to find out. The Cuetec is easy to control and will give me a good comparison point. My issue with the Cuetec is it feels a bit deader than I'd like, but that may be tip selection. [shrugs]

I'll report my findings as I learn them. Shaft selection is subjective and personal. I like a crisp hit with predictable results yet consistent feedback from delicate to powerful strokes. I've been a Meucci fan, but don't like the occasional surprises on delicate spin shots, especially along the rails. Carbon fiber seems more predictable for these. The question for me is whether the Rhino is consistently accurate on the longer (with and without spin) shots that separate the men from the boys. Much of that is skill level and talent and it's easy to blame the arrow not the Indian.

Time will tell.
Thank you Choir Boy for a good review of the shaft.
Which tip do you have on the Cuetec Cynergy that makes it feel dead? I'll like to avoid that.

If you like a crispy hit, I think you do need to try a Revo but not with the soft Victory tip it comes with brand new. A seasoned medium tan tip or a properly pressed 1 piece tip and I hope you can find that crispy feeling.
 
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