Porper model B tapers

[Dallas2431]

I'm new here. I'm sure I'm probably posting this in the wrong area but I've searched the forum and couldn't find an answer. I need help with setting up the taper bar on a porper model B. I'm hoping there's someone in here who has or had one who understand how to get it set up and would be willing to help. Since cue butt tapers seem to be pretty universal I'd like to stay in that general dimension. I bought the lathe used and had been setting up for a lot of years. The only people who messed with it were people who had no idea what they were doing and they were just playing with a tool. Anyway I understand that moving the bar in one direction gives more taper and moving in the other direction gives less. It didn't come with the dial indicator. I know that I'm going to waste a lot of material getting everything set up but I've wasted enough lol. Can anyone give me a good starting place? I don't plan on making wood shafts anytime soon. Everyone seems to be gravitating towards CF. Those are easy.

 

[boogieman]

I'd go for ask the cuemaker, you might be able to ask a mod to move this, but it's not a big deal it being here, just you might not get as good of an answer in the main forum.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

I'm new here. I'm sure I'm probably posting this in the wrong area but I've searched the forum and couldn't find an answer. I need help with setting up the taper bar on a porper model B. I'm hoping there's someone in here who has or had one who understand how to get it set up and would be willing to help. Since cue butt tapers seem to be pretty universal I'd like to stay in that general dimension. I bought the lathe used and had been setting up for a lot of years. The only people who messed with it were people who had no idea what they were doing and they were just playing with a tool. Anyway I understand that moving the bar in one direction gives more taper and moving in the other direction gives less. It didn't come with the dial indicator. I know that I'm going to waste a lot of material getting everything set up but I've wasted enough lol. Can anyone give me a good starting place? I don't plan on making wood shafts anytime soon. Everyone seems to be gravitating towards CF. Those are easy.

If it is a straight taper, decide what you want for joint and butt diameters. Subtract the joint from the butt and divide that number by two.

Now you know the total amount of taper to set the bar.

Get a travel indicator set up in the cross slide running against the taper bar. Start at the fixed end with the indicator at half travel and the needle set to zero, and move the slide down the taper bar the length of the butt you intend to use. Now set the bar so the indicator is reading the number you calculated.

Repeat the cross slide measurement and adjust the taper bar if anything moved.

 

[Dallas2431]

This is fantastic info. Thank you.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

This is fantastic info. Thank you.

I hope it helps. I don't have a porper, but the end result is the same for any taper bar. Hopefully some others who have porpers will chime in.

You may ask to have this moved to the Ask the Cuemaker forum, or repost there. Might get some more specific info.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

I should add, you have to have the slide decoupled from the taper bar and held in one position. I expect you figured this out, tho.

 

[Michael Webb]

Add the dial indicator to the tailstock side.
Chuck side,
Use the first hole, this will be the joint side.

 

[Dallas2431]

Add the dial indicator to the tailstock side.
Chuck side,
Use the first hole, this will be the joint side.

See, that would make sense in my head but after watching the porper demo video at least 3 times they never mention doing that. Watched it on YouTube before I bought it, watched it again after I bout it, then I found d what I was hoping was a different video on Mueller for like $30 and watched it again. Naturally I was upset with myself when the DVD came in it was the same video I had already watched for free twice on YouTube lmao. Thank you.

 

[Dallas2431]

I hope it helps. I don't have a porper, but the end result is the same for any taper bar. Hopefully some others who have porpers will chime in.

You may ask to have this moved to the Ask the Cuemaker forum, or repost there. Might get some more specific info.

How would I go about asking that of a moderator? Unfortunately my experience was just with wood lathes until I got this one. I had never experienced the joy of having a cross slide and didn't even know taper bars were a thing lol. When I bought it I could've gotten a big jet gunsmithing lathe. 1: I didn't really have room for it. 2: I knew it would take a lot longer to learn. Now I wish I would've bought it. Was only $4k and seemed like it was in great shape.

 

[Michael Webb]

See, that would make sense in my head but after watching the porper demo video at least 3 times they never mention doing that. Watched it on YouTube before I bought it, watched it again after I bout it, then I found d what I was hoping was a different video on Mueller for like $30 and watched it again. Naturally I was upset with myself when the DVD came in it was the same video I had already watched for free twice on YouTube lmao. Thank you.

I saw that video.
Basic low budget Comedy.
Joe and I talked about another video, I lost interest.

The best way to make any machine, your machine, is to run it and learn it's strong points and weak points.

 

[Sheldon]

I haven't used the taper bar in over 20 years, but it worked well when I did. Here's what it looks like.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

How would I go about asking that of a moderator? Unfortunately my experience was just with wood lathes until I got this one. I had never experienced the joy of having a cross slide and didn't even know taper bars were a thing lol. When I bought it I could've gotten a big jet gunsmithing lathe. 1: I didn't really have room for it. 2: I knew it would take a lot longer to learn. Now I wish I would've bought it. Was only $4k and seemed like it was in great shape.

I expect if you PM the moderators @j2pac or @MajorMiscue one of them will take care of it. With Sheldon and Michael Webb on the case, you probably have the resources needed.

 

[italbomber]

[mention]Michael Webb [/mention] I tried to send you a message and it said I couldn’t start a conversation with you. Wanted to ask a couple questions about a proper B I picked up today.

Thanks

Jerry Botz
B&B Cue Works
845.891.3210


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Madrakr]

I'm new here. I'm sure I'm probably posting this in the wrong area but I've searched the forum and couldn't find an answer. I need help with setting up the taper bar on a porper model B. I'm hoping there's someone in here who has or had one who understand how to get it set up and would be willing to help. Since cue butt tapers seem to be pretty universal I'd like to stay in that general dimension. I bought the lathe used and had been setting up for a lot of years. The only people who messed with it were people who had no idea what they were doing and they were just playing with a tool. Anyway I understand that moving the bar in one direction gives more taper and moving in the other direction gives less. It didn't come with the dial indicator. I know that I'm going to waste a lot of material getting everything set up but I've wasted enough lol. Can anyone give me a good starting place? I don't plan on making wood shafts anytime soon. Everyone seems to be gravitating towards CF. Those are easy.

Hello Dallas, I’m just getting back into putting a cue together, hadn’t built in 5yrs or more. On my model B, if both end of the tape bar are flush on the mounts, the butt grove on mine has a .200 difference from the pin end to the bumper end.

 

[Madrakr]

Hello Dallas, I’m just getting back into putting a cue together, hadn’t built in 5yrs or more. On my model B, if both end of the tape bar are flush on the mounts, the butt grove on mine has a .200 difference from the pin end to the bumper end.

Dallas, I miss spoke about the difference’s of “my” Model B. After making some firewood last night while tapering a handle, I gathered the caliper, tape measure, pen & paper. After about an hour of measuring & remeasuring, I came up with about a difference of .206 between the bumper end to the pin end. I adjusted about every way i could try to get a .850 & a 1.250 between my available cutting area on a 29” handle, & I just couldn’t get it. I’m no master cue builder, but I do enjoy trying to assemble one.
It’s always fun starting over a project you thought you just about had completed.
Be well.
Michael