Wood suggestions for a rookie

DeeRay86

DeeRay86

Active member
As in the title I'm a new builder (10 years repair man) trying to find my way with a high tower midsize, Ridgid router and power feed and other tools of course. Im learning. I have heard that burls can be problematic so I'm staying away from them for now. But I have seen a few other materials like snakewood for example, and others that I have heard difficulties about. I was hoping I could get some advice on materials that are safe to start with and some materials that may be a little difficult but I can still learn from. Any advice is much appreciated. From tip to butt.
Dees Cue Shop.
 
Straight grain Maple, Purple heart and Bocote.
All reasonably priced.
Work out your tapers!
If you plan on using an -A- joint, get a dial indicator or 2.
If you plan on doing Vee points, you'll find out quick,
How true your -A- joint really is!!!!!!
Don't be afraid to screw up,
To learn something is nice,
To understand it,
Is incredible!
If your to cheap to sacrifice some wood and time,
STOP NOW
WALMART IS HIRING!
 
Michael Webb said:
Straight grain Maple, Purple heart and Bocote.
All reasonably priced.
Work out your tapers!
If you plan on using an -A- joint, get a dial indicator or 2.
If you plan on doing Vee points, you'll find out quick,
How true your -A- joint really is!!!!!!
Don't be afraid to screw up,
To learn something is nice,
To understand it,
Is incredible!
If your to cheap to sacrifice some wood and time,
STOP NOW
WALMART IS HIRING!
Click to expand...
Thanks Michael really appreciate it
 
DeeRay86 said:
Thanks Michael really appreciate it
Click to expand...
Please excuse my Walmart remark.
The reality is,
If you want to do this, you have to sacrifice yourself and evrrything that goes with it.
NEVER, EVER
Settle for,
I did this because that's how so and so does it.

Define your own methods and philosophy.
Win Win for you.
Everything and everyone else, is a reference point
 
Michael Webb said:
Please excuse my Walmart remark.
The reality is,
If you want to do this, you have to sacrifice yourself and evrrything that goes with it.
NEVER, EVER
Settle for,
I did this because that's how so and so does it.

Define your own methods and philosophy.
Win Win for you.
Everything and everyone else, is a reference point
Click to expand...
No worries on the Walmart comment lol.
Yes, a reference point is all I need for some things. The rest i want to do my way. After all, I think that's what makes it YOUR cue. It's what makes cues so interesting, their all different.
 
I have heard that burls can be problematic so I'm staying away from them for now. But I have seen a few other materials like snakewood for example, and others that I have heard difficulties about.
Click to expand...

I'll give you the same advice as I was given almost 30 years ago.
"RIVER of WOOD"
Those who know of him, know where this advice came from.
Probably one of the most important pieces of info I was given to start out.

Shaft wood...you can never have enough. If you have the right source, it's better than money in an IRA.
Butt wood...(Exotic woods, exotic figured woods) the list is endless of the different types you should be buying and stock piling. Every spare penny you have or can muster without straining your budget should be invested into woods.
Why? you ask....because just like when I started out on this journey there will be a lot more of the world woods that are put on a CITIES list or that will simply disappear from the commercial list of woods that will either sky rocket the prices or make them next to impossible to acquire.
ie: Brazilian Rosewood was still readily available in the early to late 90s. I stock piled everything I could get my hands on simply because I liked this wood for being what it is. Try to find some now. If you do, get your wallet out!
1.5x1.5x18 Brazilian Tulipwood/Kingwood was so available I used to walk in to one of my suppliers and there would literally be 2 piles on the floor to choose from at $9 a stick. Wish I had nabbed more :cry:
1.5x1.5x18 Nicely figured Cocobolo/Bocote used to be 8-10 a stick. If you purchased a dozen or more sticks they would throw in free shipping.
I could on and on but I'm sure you get the point.
Exotic woods will never get any cheaper and guaranteed should you decide to change directions from building you can sell said woods and not take any loss.
Seek wood sources and make it one of the most important journeys in your journey.
If you do, you could be as bad as I have been this last year and get a stocking full of coal something like this!
EuT4tQ4.jpeg
 
If you are just starting to build I would invest in wood but I would hold off on turning it. The biggest mistake I have seen new builders do is start turning all thier squares round. Wasting half the wood as sawdust. You can do a lot with a square. With exotics at the price they are start by putting your woods on the shelf and experiment on cheap available woods. Another thing you can do is look for old house cues. They are great for learning how to build and can be recycled into new builds if you want. The wood is also seasoned. Once you start getting some demand for your cues you will realize that the two most valuable commodities in this buisness are wood and creativity. I believe its a toss up as to which is more important.
 
Starting with house cues is a great idea. I learned a lot doing that. The wood is seasoned and mostly tapered the way you need. The woods in the common house cues are also the starting woods you are looking for. I've resurrected some "firewood" into really nice players. What I learned on the joints and butt sleeves was step 1 towards turning blocks into cues.

Canadian cue said:
If you are just starting to build I would invest in wood but I would hold off on turning it. The biggest mistake I have seen new builders do is start turning all thier squares round. Wasting half the wood as sawdust. You can do a lot with a square. With exotics at the price they are start by putting your woods on the shelf and experiment on cheap available woods. Another thing you can do is look for old house cues. They are great for learning how to build and can be recycled into new builds if you want. The wood is also seasoned. Once you start getting some demand for your cues you will realize that the two most valuable commodities in this buisness are wood and creativity. I believe its a toss up as to which is more important.
Click to expand...

Canadian Cue: Curious about your statement about wasting wood by turning it round. Cutting off the corners and rounding it doesn't seem wasteful. Can you explain further?
 
I'm of the minority here, it looks like, but it's a different perspective.

I always used something I liked and was excited about. If I go into any project (cues or otherwise), I find that I am more diligent and motivated if I believe in the end product--good materials are paramount in that regard. Even when I was a broke college student starting to teach myself to make cues, I started with things I liked.

Poor materials and excellent workmanship will yield a mediocre product at best. Nice materials and mediocre workmanship can easily yield the same mediocre product. As a beginner, you also never know when the stars are going to align and you knock it out of the park--if that happens with ugly woods, well you'll have a very well made, ugly cue.

This isn't to say that the materials have to be expensive. I currently play a decent amount with a 'test' cue I made on new equipment. It has an okay piece of birdseye for the forearm and sleeve with cherry points and handle (slightly figured). It is simple and clean. I know that very few cuemakers use much cherry or black walnut, but I'll use them--they are light, but pretty stable and cheap enough that you can afford to look for pieces with interesting grain (I guess it helps that I have a few hundred bf of each).

Don't get hung up on 'easy to work' woods. You'll have to learn how to work them eventually. Do research on whether the woods are stable, you are on the right track about burl and snakewood, but ebonies can be problematic, also.

As far as the house cue conversions are concerned, I've only done one. Not a fan. It turned out fine, but I was never proud of it, I didn't select the woods, I didn't assemble the pieces, etc.. Plus, I think that conversion cues with a piece of contrasting wood slammed on the end look like leftover parts.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Starting with house cues is a great idea. I learned a lot doing that. The wood is seasoned and mostly tapered the way you need. The woods in the common house cues are also the starting woods you are looking for. I've resurrected some "firewood" into really nice players. What I learned on the joints and butt sleeves was step 1 towards turning blocks into cues.



Canadian Cue: Curious about your statement about wasting wood by turning it round. Cutting off the corners and rounding it doesn't seem wasteful. Can you explain further?
Click to expand...
You can utilize a square many ways. With a 1.5 *18 piece I start by milling it perfectly square. Then I will cut a 13 " piece off. I can then using a jig cut four point blanks off and turn the fore arm. The left over I will saw off a few inlay slabs and then turn the rest as a butt sleave. When dealing with expensive wood why turn a 1.5 " blank down to 1 and 1/8" and waste all that wood. If you look back in the archives someone had posted a method of milling four point blanks from a 1" sqaure. After reading that post I challenged myself to do the same. Your bandsaw is great for conserving wood. You just need to build some jigs.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
As far as the house cue conversions are concerned, I've only done one. Not a fan. It turned out fine, but I was never proud of it, I didn't select the woods, I didn't assemble the pieces, etc.. Plus, I think that conversion cues with a piece of contrasting wood slammed on the end look like leftover parts.
Click to expand...
I have made a few very nice players with house cues. I will even out the points, recut the shaft taper and grain match the joint so the grain runs continues through the shaft into the butt. As far as adding the length. The challenge is being able to make it look nice.
 
Last edited:
Canadian cue said:
You can utilize a square many ways. With a 1.5 *18 piece I start by milling it perfectly square. Then I will cut a 13 " piece off. I can then using a jig cut four point blanks off and turn the fore arm. The left over I will saw off a few inlay slabs and then turn the rest as a butt sleave. When dealing with expensive wood why turn a 1.5 " blank down to 1 and 1/8" and waste all that wood. If you look back in the archives someone had posted a method of milling four point blanks from a 1" sqaure. After reading that post I challenged myself to do the same. Your bandsaw is great for conserving wood. You just need to build some jigs.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the explanation. I’ve done some similar thinks with 2” blanks. Cutting off a 1/2 “ on two sides and used the cutoff slabs.

I aspire to be that efficient. The problem for beginners is a lack of better tools or the tool at all. Even space can be an issue. At the moment I do not have a planer or mill. I am still working on trying to get the blade not to wander when making long straight cuts on the band saw.

You have given me a new goal to work towards. I don’t like wasting any of my wood either.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
I'll give you the same advice as I was given almost 30 years ago.
"RIVER of WOOD"
Those who know of him, know where this advice came from.
Probably one of the most important pieces of info I was given to start out.

Shaft wood...you can never have enough. If you have the right source, it's better than money in an IRA.
Butt wood...(Exotic woods, exotic figured woods) the list is endless of the different types you should be buying and stock piling. Every spare penny you have or can muster without straining your budget should be invested into woods.
Why? you ask....because just like when I started out on this journey there will be a lot more of the world woods that are put on a CITIES list or that will simply disappear from the commercial list of woods that will either sky rocket the prices or make them next to impossible to acquire.
ie: Brazilian Rosewood was still readily available in the early to late 90s. I stock piled everything I could get my hands on simply because I liked this wood for being what it is. Try to find some now. If you do, get your wallet out!
1.5x1.5x18 Brazilian Tulipwood/Kingwood was so available I used to walk in to one of my suppliers and there would literally be 2 piles on the floor to choose from at $9 a stick. Wish I had nabbed more :cry:
1.5x1.5x18 Nicely figured Cocobolo/Bocote used to be 8-10 a stick. If you purchased a dozen or more sticks they would throw in free shipping.
I could on and on but I'm sure you get the point.
Exotic woods will never get any cheaper and guaranteed should you decide to change directions from building you can sell said woods and not take any loss.
Seek wood sources and make it one of the most important journeys in your journey.
If you do, you could be as bad as I have been this last year and get a stocking full of coal something like this!
EuT4tQ4.jpeg
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for the advice. Just earlier today I realized
BarenbruggeCues said:
I'll give you the same advice as I was given almost 30 years ago.
"RIVER of WOOD"
Those who know of him, know where this advice came from.
Probably one of the most important pieces of info I was given to start out.

Shaft wood...you can never have enough. If you have the right source, it's better than money in an IRA.
Butt wood...(Exotic woods, exotic figured woods) the list is endless of the different types you should be buying and stock piling. Every spare penny you have or can muster without straining your budget should be invested into woods.
Why? you ask....because just like when I started out on this journey there will be a lot more of the world woods that are put on a CITIES list or that will simply disappear from the commercial list of woods that will either sky rocket the prices or make them next to impossible to acquire.
ie: Brazilian Rosewood was still readily available in the early to late 90s. I stock piled everything I could get my hands on simply because I liked this wood for being what it is. Try to find some now. If you do, get your wallet out!
1.5x1.5x18 Brazilian Tulipwood/Kingwood was so available I used to walk in to one of my suppliers and there would literally be 2 piles on the floor to choose from at $9 a stick. Wish I had nabbed more :cry:
1.5x1.5x18 Nicely figured Cocobolo/Bocote used to be 8-10 a stick. If you purchased a dozen or more sticks they would throw in free shipping.
I could on and on but I'm sure you get the point.
Exotic woods will never get any cheaper and guaranteed should you decide to change directions from building you can sell said woods and not take any loss.
Seek wood sources and make it one of the most important journeys in your journey.
If you do, you could be as bad as I have been this last year and get a stocking full of coal something like this!
Click to expand...

BarenbruggeCues said:
I'll give you the same advice as I was given almost 30 years ago.
"RIVER of WOOD"
Those who know of him, know where this advice came from.
Probably one of the most important pieces of info I was given to start out.

Shaft wood...you can never have enough. If you have the right source, it's better than money in an IRA.
Butt wood...(Exotic woods, exotic figured woods) the list is endless of the different types you should be buying and stock piling. Every spare penny you have or can muster without straining your budget should be invested into woods.
Why? you ask....because just like when I started out on this journey there will be a lot more of the world woods that are put on a CITIES list or that will simply disappear from the commercial list of woods that will either sky rocket the prices or make them next to impossible to acquire.
ie: Brazilian Rosewood was still readily available in the early to late 90s. I stock piled everything I could get my hands on simply because I liked this wood for being what it is. Try to find some now. If you do, get your wallet out!
1.5x1.5x18 Brazilian Tulipwood/Kingwood was so available I used to walk in to one of my suppliers and there would literally be 2 piles on the floor to choose from at $9 a stick. Wish I had nabbed more :cry:
1.5x1.5x18 Nicely figured Cocobolo/Bocote used to be 8-10 a stick. If you purchased a dozen or more sticks they would throw in free shipping.
I could on and on but I'm sure you get the point.
Exotic woods will never get any cheaper and guaranteed should you decide to change directions from building you can sell said woods and not take any loss.
Seek wood sources and make it one of the most important journeys in your journey.
If you do, you could be as bad as I have been this last year and get a stocking full of coal something like this!
EuT4tQ4.jpeg
Click to expand...
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
I'll give you the same advice as I was given almost 30 years ago.
"RIVER of WOOD"
Those who know of him, know where this advice came from.
Probably one of the most important pieces of info I was given to start out.

Shaft wood...you can never have enough. If you have the right source, it's better than money in an IRA.
Butt wood...(Exotic woods, exotic figured woods) the list is endless of the different types you should be buying and stock piling. Every spare penny you have or can muster without straining your budget should be invested into woods.
Why? you ask....because just like when I started out on this journey there will be a lot more of the world woods that are put on a CITIES list or that will simply disappear from the commercial list of woods that will either sky rocket the prices or make them next to impossible to acquire.
ie: Brazilian Rosewood was still readily available in the early to late 90s. I stock piled everything I could get my hands on simply because I liked this wood for being what it is. Try to find some now. If you do, get your wallet out!
1.5x1.5x18 Brazilian Tulipwood/Kingwood was so available I used to walk in to one of my suppliers and there would literally be 2 piles on the floor to choose from at $9 a stick. Wish I had nabbed more :cry:
1.5x1.5x18 Nicely figured Cocobolo/Bocote used to be 8-10 a stick. If you purchased a dozen or more sticks they would throw in free shipping.
I could on and on but I'm sure you get the point.
Exotic woods will never get any cheaper and guaranteed should you decide to change directions from building you can sell said woods and not take any loss.
Seek wood sources and make it one of the most important journeys in your journey.
If you do, you could be as bad as I have been this last year and get a stocking full of coal something like this!
EuT4tQ4.jpeg
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input, really. Funny thing, I thought about the shaft material thing just earlier today and ordered what i can for now. Nice to know I was on to something. Thanks again for the advice.
 
Canadian cue said:
If you are just starting to build I would invest in wood but I would hold off on turning it. The biggest mistake I have seen new builders do is start turning all thier squares round. Wasting half the wood as sawdust. You can do a lot with a square. With exotics at the price they are start by putting your woods on the shelf and experiment on cheap available woods. Another thing you can do is look for old house cues. They are great for learning how to build and can be recycled into new builds if you want. The wood is also seasoned. Once you start getting some demand for your cues you will realize that the two most valuable commodities in this buisness are wood and creativity. I believe its a toss up as to which is more important.
Click to expand...
I have my router setup and the math down pat for my tailstock offset to achieve my taper. I picked up some cheap square to practice on today. I had so much repair work I didnt get a chance to experiment. I will tmrw, Maybe. Man I have 40, 50 house cues in the corner of my shop. they are all warped, beat up trash from the drunk folks. So I have plenty of scrap to play around with. I cannot thank yall enough for the input.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
I'm of the minority here, it looks like, but it's a different perspective.

I always used something I liked and was excited about. If I go into any project (cues or otherwise), I find that I am more diligent and motivated if I believe in the end product--good materials are paramount in that regard. Even when I was a broke college student starting to teach myself to make cues, I started with things I liked.

Poor materials and excellent workmanship will yield a mediocre product at best. Nice materials and mediocre workmanship can easily yield the same mediocre product. As a beginner, you also never know when the stars are going to align and you knock it out of the park--if that happens with ugly woods, well you'll have a very well made, ugly cue.

This isn't to say that the materials have to be expensive. I currently play a decent amount with a 'test' cue I made on new equipment. It has an okay piece of birdseye for the forearm and sleeve with cherry points and handle (slightly figured). It is simple and clean. I know that very few cuemakers use much cherry or black walnut, but I'll use them--they are light, but pretty stable and cheap enough that you can afford to look for pieces with interesting grain (I guess it helps that I have a few hundred bf of each).

Don't get hung up on 'easy to work' woods. You'll have to learn how to work them eventually. Do research on whether the woods are stable, you are on the right track about burl and snakewood, but ebonies can be problematic, also.

As far as the house cue conversions are concerned, I've only done one. Not a fan. It turned out fine, but I was never proud of it, I didn't select the woods, I didn't assemble the pieces, etc.. Plus, I think that conversion cues with a piece of contrasting wood slammed on the end look like leftover parts.
Click to expand...
I truly appreciate everybody's input, But. I am right in line with you DeeDeeCue. Ill play around with the house cues to learn but I'm not afraid of woods that are labeled as hard to work with. Like you said, Gonna work with it eventually so I welcome it. We have all seen house cues somebody "rebuilt" slapped materials on and called it their cue. I never liked or was impressed by that. But I'm nobody, Just a cue repair guy with a goal to build a nice solid product with my name on it. I was told by an old timer when was asking to many questions for advice, "Make dust and learn" Thanks yall
 
It does not get much safer than my jump start 6 packs.
www.cuesmith.com

Internet Special #1 - Jump Start 6 pack special! - Cue Man Billiard Products

Internet Special #1 **Jump Start 6 pack special!** 1- Bocote 30” x 1.375” butt dowel 1- Goncalo Alves 30” x 1.375” butt dowel 1- Rosewood 30” x 1.375” dowel 1- Shedua 30" x 1.375 dowel 1- Birdseye Maple 4A stain grade or better 1- Rosewood 18” x 1.375” dowel 2- Maple Handles 18” x 1.375” dowels...
www.cuesmith.com www.cuesmith.com
 
cueman said:
It does not get much safer than my jump start 6 packs.
www.cuesmith.com

Internet Special #1 - Jump Start 6 pack special! - Cue Man Billiard Products

Internet Special #1 **Jump Start 6 pack special!** 1- Bocote 30” x 1.375” butt dowel 1- Goncalo Alves 30” x 1.375” butt dowel 1- Rosewood 30” x 1.375” dowel 1- Shedua 30" x 1.375 dowel 1- Birdseye Maple 4A stain grade or better 1- Rosewood 18” x 1.375” dowel 2- Maple Handles 18” x 1.375” dowels...
www.cuesmith.com www.cuesmith.com
Click to expand...
It's in my cart Chris.
 
Just saw the corners off the square or use a router table to cut them off. Then turning round is a one pass job and much easier on your router and lathe. If you see any kiln dried wood you want to stock that does not come from the USA start buying it as they are restricting imports more and more each year.
 
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