Perhaps You May Be Able To Recommend or Possibly Help Me?
- Thread starter Bavafongoul
- Start date
I've added weight to 3 shafts now, one about .32 oz, one about .3 oz, and one about .28 oz. Quite simple actually if you have a cue lathe. Just drill and tap past your original joint threads about a 1/4" further than the distance needed for the threaded pin you are installing. Other than shaft weight or final cue balance, I can't imagine it in any way affecting how the shaft plays.
Even Mezz, or Predator, or one of the cue manufactures offers this as a feature on one of their shafts.
Even Mezz, or Predator, or one of the cue manufactures offers this as a feature on one of their shafts.
billiards_watch
Well-known member
I don't want to add to your problem but don't screw up what Mr. Runde, Scruggs, Prewitt Owen and Rauenzahn worked so hard on perfecting. Are you going to worry about balance? I still don't think its as simple as plug and play. Lets say it doesn't hit and play like it would with its original shaft but make sure you get the fit right.
Not all 250lb men are built the same.
You could make a long tiny hole and fill it with wire. Solder would be heavier. Weigh the stuff and any adhesive you need.
Herein lies the rub……..I have explained several times my approach to cue making not as a builder but as a buyer.
What I believe and have long espoused with friends and publicly on the Forum many times is my guiding principle.
Find out what weight ratio works best and stick to it just like all the very best known cue makers have done down
through the years and to this very day. There is a weight ratio scale and find out what works best and stick to it.
A cue shaft should represent 18-22% of the cue’s playing weight. Doesn’t matter if the shaft is piloted or flat faced.
My preference is for 22% and if you look at the weight of shafts made by contemporaneously and historically great
names in cue making, their cues coincided with this approach to a pool cue’s anatomical design. So I just want to try matching the weight of my cues original maple shafts with equivalent weight Kielwood shafts to keep things consistent.
I don’t expect others to embrace my approach but I do challenge those that dismiss this out of hand to sometime
research the cues built by names they might otherwise consider to be heralded names in cue making. The best cue
makers didn’t, and still don’t, build cues this way by coincidence. CF shafts have changed this drastically because of
the added power imparted, lower deflection and synthetic materials composition. But wood hasn’t changed as much.
What I believe and have long espoused with friends and publicly on the Forum many times is my guiding principle.
Find out what weight ratio works best and stick to it just like all the very best known cue makers have done down
through the years and to this very day. There is a weight ratio scale and find out what works best and stick to it.
A cue shaft should represent 18-22% of the cue’s playing weight. Doesn’t matter if the shaft is piloted or flat faced.
My preference is for 22% and if you look at the weight of shafts made by contemporaneously and historically great
names in cue making, their cues coincided with this approach to a pool cue’s anatomical design. So I just want to try matching the weight of my cues original maple shafts with equivalent weight Kielwood shafts to keep things consistent.
I don’t expect others to embrace my approach but I do challenge those that dismiss this out of hand to sometime
research the cues built by names they might otherwise consider to be heralded names in cue making. The best cue
makers didn’t, and still don’t, build cues this way by coincidence. CF shafts have changed this drastically because of
the added power imparted, lower deflection and synthetic materials composition. But wood hasn’t changed as much.
Last edited:
Thank you for the comments and suggestions. The KW shafts I’ve been waiting on turned out lighter than anticipated so I have to locate a different cue maker. However, much to my delight, I’ve already spoken with someone ready to build a heavier version KW shaft that he’s already made for some clients. The best part is he doesn’t have to add any weight to the shafts.
billiards_watch
Well-known member
They are probably going to 'half bake' it. Instead of baking the entire thing and sucking the life out of it.
Similar to browning a piece of steak after the sous vide.
That's the only way I can think of for them to 'keep the weight'.
Now we're talking about shaft cooking and I am not familiar with the process.
Dunno about that…..what I know is the cue maker said he’s done it before and it is not that hard to do.
You have to select the right type of wood, weigh the blanks individually, categorize by cue weight range,
and maintain tight control over the torrification process. He has many hundreds of Kielwood blanks to
choose from and has built KW shafts over 4 ozs. before whereas others haven’t or don’t think it’s doable.
I happen to wholeheartedly concur with the cue maker and it was uplifting to hear that this isn’t just a mere
attempt and let’s see how close it turns out. Nope, this was more of anything else you want besides weight?
It was entirely a can do discussion instead of let’s see how it turns out or weight can be added around the collar.
The cue maker said everything was dependent on the wood selected and it was easy if you have the right wood.
Don’t misconstrue my comments to be brash, presumptuous, pontificating or anything other than I’m just passing
along, sort of sharing, news and developments on my thread pursuing a certain type of a Kielwood shaft. Hopefully,
others find this of some interest or are curious but I am learning along the way as are some readers of my posts.
I just received the InFuzed kielwood shaft, which is a hybrid shaft made of kielwood with a carbon insert at the front end. I got it with a 14-thread insert and 12.5 mm diameter (there are also 12 mm & 12.9 mm). It is a flat-faced joint, which is what I was looking for to match a Linds cue that I have with a flat-faced 5/16x14 long pin. It also fits my Schons, McDaniels, Jacoby, and Scruggs.
It weighs 122 grams, which is 4.3 oz.
Looks like it could answer your quest.
www.cueandcase.com
I'll take it out shooting tonight and post my initial thoughts about it.
It weighs 122 grams, which is 4.3 oz.
Looks like it could answer your quest.
Pure X Kielwood Carbon InFUZED Solid Shaft
Buy the Pure X Kielwood Carbon InFUZED Solid Shaft and more quality pool, billiards, and game room gear for sale online from Cue & Case.
www.cueandcase.com
I'll take it out shooting tonight and post my initial thoughts about it.
I use a 3.1 oz wood shaft that has a crack under the ferrule and it’s about as dirty as you can get. I do ok…. It’s not shaft/cue!
billiards_watch
Well-known member
In my opinion the best shaft in the market.I just received the InFuzed kielwood shaft, which is a hybrid shaft made of kielwood with a carbon insert at the front end. I got it with a 14-thread insert and 12.5 mm diameter (there are also 12 mm & 12.9 mm). It is a flat-faced joint, which is what I was looking for to match a Linds cue that I have with a flat-faced 5/16x14 long pin. It also fits my Schons, McDaniels, Jacoby, and Scruggs.
It weighs 122 grams, which is 4.3 oz.
Looks like it could answer your quest.
Pure X Kielwood Carbon InFUZED Solid Shaft
Buy the Pure X Kielwood Carbon InFUZED Solid Shaft and more quality pool, billiards, and game room gear for sale online from Cue & Case.
I'll take it out shooting tonight and post my initial thoughts about it.
Not sure about that, it's a bit too heavy in my opinion. If you like lighter cues like me, the shaft weight changes the balance point and move it forward, might be too much forward for under 19oz cues. Should be fine for 19.5oz cues.
I wonder if that's a normal weight of these shafts or did I just got "lucky"
TeddyKGB
Active member
congrats
I hope you don't take this the wrong way. I know you are an avid collector and enjoy the process of custom cue building and getting involved in the process and I also love many of your replies in the various forums on AZB but there is no substitute for pocketing balls. My point is that we may overthink the situation on our way to simply pocketing balls while getting shape.
I'm currently in the process of building an old school box cue. Birdseye maple and ebony. Cut diamonds and dots. Traditional old school. Four razor sharp pointy points signed and dated. It will have a Kielwood shaft.
I gave the maker one of my shafts to duplicate the taper and diameter.
Tried carbon fiber. Like wood better.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Should have it by the end of summer.
All the sellers on eBay I contacted, and there were a lot of different brands offering 3/8x10 and 3/8x11 threads, either never responded or didn’t have any that shafts in their inventory that came close including distributors of Infuzed.I just received the InFuzed kielwood shaft, which is a hybrid shaft made of kielwood with a carbon insert at the front end. I got it with a 14-thread insert and 12.5 mm diameter (there are also 12 mm & 12.9 mm). It is a flat-faced joint, which is what I was looking for to match a Linds cue that I have with a flat-faced 5/16x14 long pin. It also fits my Schons, McDaniels, Jacoby, and Scruggs.
It weighs 122 grams, which is 4.3 oz.
Looks like it could answer your quest.
Pure X Kielwood Carbon InFUZED Solid Shaft
Buy the Pure X Kielwood Carbon InFUZED Solid Shaft and more quality pool, billiards, and game room gear for sale online from Cue & Case.
I'll take it out shooting tonight and post my initial thoughts about it.
Now none of these individuals were actual builders but simply sellers and/or distributors of the Kielwood brand on their eBay auction listings. I tried the eBay thing months ago. Keep in mind I’ve posted about Schmelke Kielwood shafts, 30” versions, that my closest friend ordered at my suggestion. His 13 mm version is over 4 ozs and the 12.8mm shaft is 3.83ozs. I was prepared to use Schmelke but just thought a cue maker should be able to do even better.
As I wrote, most cue makers I spoke with didn’t think what I wanted could be built without adding weight around the collar in different ways. That was a last resort to me and I suspect changes the way a pool cue wood shaft otherwise resonates, i.e., vibration, sound and feel. Anyway, I never believed it was necessary but had a hard time getting one built. The cue maker I tried that seemed confident couldn’t do it, or didn’t with my order. So it was back to square 1.
Right now I have a different, but also very prominent named, cue maker building me 2 Kielwood shafts. Please don’t infer I am saying my shafts are special or play better than any KW shaft you have or might buy. Oh gosh, no. That’s as
dumb as saying my cues play better than your pool cues. GTF outta here if anyone believes you can buy a cue that plays better. Go buy a violin, trumphet, piano, flute……pay more or pay less…..doesn’t mattter because it is always the
musician playing it that matters more than the instrument played. Cues are the same & IMO, you should be able to get
what you like or want as long as you are willing to pay for it, within reason of course. I think that applies to KW shafts.
Last edited:
It is all comes down to what you so excellently summed up……pocketing balls……and the harder the shot, the greater
measure of satisfaction is derived and also bolstered sense of self-confidence. How you achieve that is a individualistic
approach to the game. Obviously, like sports athletes, we want to use the best equipment thinking it helps us do better.
That’s why the weight ratio I keep preaching has a range of 18% to 22%, give or take. And down through the years,
no one has refuted with any certainty, or evidentiary rebuttal, that the greatest names in cue making traditionally
adhered to using this weight ratio. Admittedly, it was far easier when there was a greater supply of old growth wood
to build heavier shafts. And let’s not forget in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s, cues were generally a little heavier than today.