Getting steady rest / 3 jaw bearing chuck aligned and centered

RidgeRaider

RidgeRaider

Active member
So I got a cue man 3 jaw chuck on a bearing to put in my steady rest on my atlas lathe.

I’ve got it close to aligned by getting it to .005 runout on the dial indicator, but can’t get it zeroed.

I’m using the method of putting stock in my lathe, turning it true, putting a center on it, then putting the 3 jaw on and zeroing the piece with the 3 jaw on. Then install the steady rest and clamp it on the bearing with the tail stock engaged.

It seems no matter what I do, I can’t get it zeroed. Is this a fools errand to try and zero this? I have the DNA adjustable collet system on order, hoping that takes out the last bit of it, but I am not sure if the steady rest not being zeroed is gonna be an issue.

Any advice or thoughts on how to get it zeroed, or should I just say good enough and wait for the collet system?
 
Any pictures of your setup?
Mounting a ball bearing in the steady, then using a collet between the bearing I.D and whatever you are turning works well.
 
RidgeRaider said:
So I got a cue man 3 jaw chuck on a bearing to put in my steady rest on my atlas lathe.

I’ve got it close to aligned by getting it to .005 runout on the dial indicator, but can’t get it zeroed.

I’m using the method of putting stock in my lathe, turning it true, putting a center on it, then putting the 3 jaw on and zeroing the piece with the 3 jaw on. Then install the steady rest and clamp it on the bearing with the tail stock engaged.

It seems no matter what I do, I can’t get it zeroed. Is this a fools errand to try and zero this? I have the DNA adjustable collet system on order, hoping that takes out the last bit of it, but I am not sure if the steady rest not being zeroed is gonna be an issue.

Any advice or thoughts on how to get it zeroed, or should I just say good enough and wait for the collet system?
Click to expand...
Email me (not PM) and I will send instructions on how to bore the jaws on a chuck mounted on a steady rest.
 
Kim Bye said:
Any pictures of your setup?
Mounting a ball bearing in the steady, then using a collet between the bearing I.D and whatever you are turning works well.
Click to expand...
This is what I am currently working with.
 

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If you are getting runout it has to be coming from the 3 jaw. I would be looking at my jaws or how the chuck is mounted to its arbor.
 
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BarenbruggeCues said:
IMG_3319.jpeg

Curious.....what would you use this set up for?
Is it a cue building jig thingy?
Why not just work out of the chuck on the lathe?
I'm probably missing here :unsure:
Click to expand...
My guess would be the through bore diameter is too small.
As for the runout, when you have so many components that all need to work together, you need to do multiple measurements and work out how everything is aligned along the whole axis. I see your test bar has several diameters on it. Are you sure that your test piece is perfectly round?
I use a 1" piece of precision ground rod to align the chuck and rear chuck, you can buy that at places that sells parts for CNC machines, doesn't cost much.
 
Kim Bye said:
My guess would be the through bore diameter is too small.
As for the runout, when you have so many components that all need to work together, you need to do multiple measurements and work out how everything is aligned along the whole axis. I see your test bar has several diameters on it. Are you sure that your test piece is perfectly round?
I use a 1" piece of precision ground rod to align the chuck and rear chuck, you can buy that at places that sells parts for CNC machines, doesn't cost much.
Click to expand...
Y'know, my lack of knowledge is going to show my ass a lot on most of this stuff. So bare with me please haha.

I have no true idea if the piece I had in there was true. I like to think it was, because I turned it in the lathe and it was zeroed, but I guess that doesn't mean much in the scheme of it all.

So, knowing that already in the back of my head, I found a test bar that has a long enough parallel section in it that I could use. After cue-mans advice to bore the jaws, I did and after an hour or so of doing that and re-checking and re-boring, I finally got it to about 2.5 thousands on the 3jaw. That's a lot better than it was, that's for sure. I'd love to get it down to 1thou, but I am unsure if that's a pipe dream for this 3jaw.

https://imgur.com/a/s1tEQ9I
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
If you're serious about doing any cue work.....
Get yourself a lathe with a large bore hole, a long bed and a DRO.
You will grow tired of thanking yourself for doing this.
Click to expand...

We are generally on the same page, but here I'm not positive I fully agree with you. I definitely don't exactly disagree with you on this, but there are fine ways to accomplish anything one needs without a large bore lathe.

There are still challenges and learning curves associated with a 'proper' lathe. There will always be a need for the maker to understand what is happening in order to produce quality. In some regards, starting with less than ideal equipment will make for a better craftsman in the long run, especially as he moves into better equipment.

There is little inherently wrong with using a center steady for the processes required for cue making. The only problem that can't be overcome is that it will always be slower than working through-bore due to having to install the center steady. There are definitely challenges presented, mostly as seen in these threads--it is tough to get it so it installs accurately everywhere, and stability needs to be addressed. Both of these are reasons that I use profile linear rail with a carriage for my CS and tailstock.

It would always be great to start with the best equipment, but as with any endeavor, compromises must be made. With my years of experience in machine design and having a large milling machine (and other fabrication equipment), I made a solution that works well for me. I probably err a bit too much to the 'DIY' side just because I have those abilities.

Have fun!
 
No matter what equipment you utilize I've always considered it 45% machine, 45% operator and 10% experimentation.
Putting 2 different individuals on the best machine will more times than not end in 2 different results.
I understand where you're coming from and the learning curve. I still learn new stuff as I chug along. I've built fixtures that have been rebuilt multiple times to enhance the final out come. A lot of this has happened because I've ungraded the equipment I was initially building the fixtures with.
Basically I'm just saying save yourself valuable time if your serious about building cues and limit the amount of time you're messing around NOT building cues.
The one thing I have learned is life in the shop is much more enjoyable with quality machines.

If you're a hobby guy and just doing this for fun disregard the above print.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
No matter what equipment you utilize I've always considered it 45% machine, 45% operator and 10% experimentation.
Putting 2 different individuals on the best machine will more times than not end in 2 different results.
I understand where you're coming from and the learning curve. I still learn new stuff as I chug along. I've built fixtures that have been rebuilt multiple times to enhance the final out come. A lot of this has happened because I've ungraded the equipment I was initially building the fixtures with.
Basically I'm just saying save yourself valuable time if your serious about building cues and limit the amount of time you're messing around NOT building cues.
The one thing I have learned is life in the shop is much more enjoyable with quality machines.

If you're a hobby guy and just doing this for fun disregard the above print.
Click to expand...

Well said. I love designing and building machine parts, so it doesn't matter which I'm working on considering neither is my main income.
 
Canadian cue said:
If you are getting runout it has to be coming from the 3 jaw. I would be looking at my jaws
Click to expand...

RidgeRaider said:
Y'know, my lack of knowledge is going to show my ass a lot on most of this stuff. So bare with me please haha.

I have no true idea if the piece I had in there was true. I like to think it was, because I turned it in the lathe and it was zeroed, but I guess that doesn't mean much in the scheme of it all.

So, knowing that already in the back of my head, I found a test bar that has a long enough parallel section in it that I could use. After cue-mans advice to bore the jaws, I did and after an hour or so of doing that and re-checking and re-boring, I finally got it to about 2.5 thousands on the 3jaw. That's a lot better than it was, that's for sure. I'd love to get it down to 1thou, but I am unsure if that's a pipe dream for this 3jaw.

https://imgur.com/a/s1tEQ9I
Click to expand...
If you put your test bar between centers and the bar runs true, then clamp your chuck to it unsupported by the steady. Now put your dial on the bearings that the chuck is rotating on, do you have any run out? If sp I would try and narrow down where the run out is coming from. I would suspect it is either the chuck isn't mounted concentric to the bearing arbor, or the chuck jaws are not running concentric with the bearings.
 
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The longer I do this, the more I value ease of use, repeatability and durability, even though the initial cost might be higher than I would like it to be.
I totally understand that a behemoth 1000+ lbs isn't something you just drag in somewhere, you need a dedicated space for a large lathe or mill. But if you have the space for it, it only makes sense to get something that helps you do your best work without constantly fighting your tools and equipment, plenty of stuff goes tits-up even in a well structured shop..
 
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