Rhino MUST

What we have here is a failure to communicate let's all respect each other and get along Happy Thanksgiving from Canada.
 
Folks Rhino is not re-inventing the wheel, at least not for 250bux. My $.02 on this is that their basic cf shaft is a flag-wrapped tube and the new one is filament-wound like most of the top shafts are today. 'Once set-up' its easier/faster/cheaper to make tubes like this. As far as playing? I SERIOUSLY doubt ANY player could tell by the 'hit' how the tube was made. As for the defl. reduction? Its pretty simple, they reduced front-end mass like every other maker. Most likely by removing foam ala Cynergy. They are a small co. and i'd bet pretty good they get their tubes from a supplier. Its a big step to start making your own tubes and at their prices i find that doubtful. Cuetec, Predator, Triple60/Whyte, BeCue all make their own tubes and that's one reason for their prices. That and sponsoring players/big ad campaigns/etc. It all adds to the price.
 
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Is Rhino Must’s "refined" pro taper closer to hybrid conical taper than real pro taper?

Rhino qualifies its’ response to SkillZelite’s question in Post #8 regarding pro vs conical taper. Rhino’s Dustin claims the Must shaft has pro taper “But this pro taper will be a little different from our old shaft and we would like to suggest you try it to have a further details”.

Rhino’s website also backs off from calling this full pro taper: [Rhino’s Must] features a refined pro taper and a refined balance point, delivering a effortless stroke flow and a stable, confident playing feel.

I am impressed with the pro taper from Rhino's less-expensive carbon fiber shaft (my 10.4mm Rhino CF shaft increases from 10.4mm to 10.6mm at 10"). This pro taper is not like Cynergy CF shaft's hybrid conical taper (increases from 10.4mm to 10.8mm at 3", and to 12.3mm at 9") .

How much less pro taper is in Rhino’s Must shaft than its less-expensive carbon fiber shaft?
 
I've got no dog in this, but, I will say, I've busted open a carbon shaft from one of the Asian companies (a more reputable one) and it was foam filled at the top 8 inches, and bottom 8 inches. Hollow inside the middle.
 
I've got no dog in this, but, I will say, I've busted open a carbon shaft from one of the Asian companies (a more reputable one) and it was foam filled at the top 8 inches, and bottom 8 inches. Hollow inside the middle.
Probably not real low-defl. To get lower D most outfits leave some of the tip end hollow to lower the mass.
 
All this talk about CF and deflection made go old school and took out my old faithful player, Carmeli 8-pointer with a good old Predator 314-2 shaft, best combo I ever played with, even left the glove in the case… played really great, lost a hill hill semi final in a small tournament but really played great… could have saved a lot of money if I wasn’t so curious, thinking there might be something better out there.

Spend your money on table time and less on new hypes 😉
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Well, I ordered a Must as a possible spare/playing shaft for my latest Jacoby. Right now I'm shooting it with their Kielwood shaft I got with it that I turned down from 12.75 to 12.5mm and replaced the tip to soften the hit up somewhat. Not sure when I'll get it, but that's ok as I'm shooting good with the Kielwood. It is a very crisp hit though and I may try a softer tip yet. I do also have Rhino regular carbon shaft that my wife is using on our other Jacoby, so should be interesting to see the difference as both will be 12.5 mm.
Quite honestly I'm mostly interested in their more forward balance claim and what difference there really is.
 
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I msg'd them yesterday and just got a reply. They said its a one piece multi-layer cf tube, NO two-piece bs just like i thought. Weren't real clear on whether its filament wound or flag-wrapped but her description leads me to believe its a flag-wrapped tube. At this price that wouldn't surprise me. Either way that's not a big deal as quality cf tubes can be made either way. Some super hi-end golf shafts are flag-wrapped and they play great. I'm really impressed with how fast they reply to questions. Almost forgot: the balance is achieved by an insert in the tube. You can kinda see the outline of it on their website in the shaft's description.
 
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I msg'd them yesterday and just got a reply. They said its a one piece multi-layer cf tube, NO two-piece bs just like i thought. Weren't real clear on whether its filament wound or flag-wrapped but her description leads me to believe its a flag-wrapped tube. At this price that wouldn't surprise me. Either way that's not a big deal as quality cf tubes can be made either way. Some super hi-end golf shafts are flag-wrapped and they play great. I'm
They have a weight in their standard carbon shafts also, but it's directly Infront of where the butt pin bottoms out. While I knew there was probably a weight in there, I found out where it was when I attempted to add a couple tenths of an oz 5/16" pin to the Rhino radial shaft we had. When I started to drill past the radial threads in the shaft to thread for the pin, I almost immediately hit the weight. So I would estimate it was no more than 1/4" at most in front of where the butt joint pin bottoms out.
Also, just checked my email and the Must shaft is showing up today! Not sure when I'll try it as I have some med things being done thisaft.
 
They have a weight in their standard carbon shafts also, but it's directly Infront of where the butt pin bottoms out. While I knew there was probably a weight in there, I found out where it was when I attempted to add a couple tenths of an oz 5/16" pin to the Rhino radial shaft we had. When I started to drill past the radial threads in the shaft to thread for the pin, I almost immediately hit the weight. So I would estimate it was no more than 1/4" at most in front of where the butt joint pin bottoms out.
Also, just checked my email and the Must shaft is showing up today! Not sure when I'll try it as I have some med things being done thisaft.
Trying to modify cf shafts is really not a great idea for just this reason. Nothing easy like drilling a deeper hole in solid wood.
 
Trying to modify cf shafts is really not a great idea for just this reason. Nothing easy like drilling a deeper hole in solid wood.
I’ve manually tapped my Rhino 5/16x14 to fit my cues that have a longer pin than the Rhino could accept.
I also manually tapped my Rhino 3/8x10 to fit the modified pins.
Not a problem, was easier than I expected.

The fact that I needed to do this and the fact that they are 21.5mm at the joint while most cues are thinner at the joints and the bad service I received from them (although it was fast) will make me pass any Rhino products in the future (I also have their jump cue).

I believe that the fact that all their shafts are 21.5mm at the joint (the size of Rhino cues) tells us that they don’t make the shafts and they get blanks at this size for their cues and that they just add different joint threads plugs, ferrules and tips.
 
I’ve manually tapped my Rhino 5/16x14 to fit my cues that have a longer pin than the Rhino could accept.
I also manually tapped my Rhino 3/8x10 to fit the modified pins.
Not a problem, was easier than I expected.

The fact that I needed to do this and the fact that they are 21.5mm at the joint while most cues are thinner at the joints and the bad service I received from them (although it was fast) will make me pass any Rhino products in the future (I also have their jump cue).

I believe that the fact that all their shafts are 21.5mm at the joint (the size of Rhino cues) tells us that they don’t make the shafts and they get blanks at this size for their cues and that they just add different joint threads plugs, ferrules and tips.
You still have to really careful if drilling any cf shaft deeper than standard. Increasing the bore size is one thing but going deeper you could drill past the bottom of the bore into the foam. As for the fit all the one's i've seen (about 7-8) have all fit the joint pretty well. You can't expect them to fit every cue. That's not a QC issue. I agree that they are an assembler, they buy tubes and finish them. For $250 i'd buy a Raven. I like the fact they're in Calif. and from what i've heard have good products and service.
 
You still have to really careful if drilling any cf shaft deeper than standard. Increasing the bore size is one thing but going deeper you could drill past the bottom of the bore into the foam. As for the fit all the one's i've seen (about 7-8) have all fit the joint pretty well. You can't expect them to fit every cue. That's not a QC issue. I agree that they are an assembler, they buy tubes and finish them. For $250 i'd buy a Raven. I like the fact they're in Calif. and from what i've heard have good products and service.
I went with Raven when I was looking for a CF break shaft. I agree, I think they make better products than Rhino.
 
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