Looking to purchase a pool table for my home. Need some advice.

Kris_b1104

Kris_b1104

House Pro in my own home.
Silver Member
I'm looking to pull the trigger and finally buy a pool table. However, I'm not willing to dish out the funds for a Diamond at the moment.

I've been scouring Facebook marketplace for tables in Colorado but all I'm seeing is furniture style tables that are meant for casuals and not a competitive player.

My loft only has room for a 7ft or 8ft, as a 9ft would force me to use a short cue which I don't want to do. 9ft is out of the question.

My question is: when it comes to home tables, which brand would you recommend or think is the best? I will eventually change the felt and rails to reduce the pocket size to play a little tougher than the buckets they come with.

The 4 at the top of my list are Brunswick, Connelly, Olhausen and AMF Playmaster. Which one of these would be easier to customize to make them play tougher for competitive practice?

Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated, thanks.
 
The first thing that I would recommend is to measure the area where you are going to place the table. You say a 7-foot or 8-foot. It will make a difference in the room you need. Measure and see what space you really have to work with. That will help narrow your search. If you have any doubt on room for the 8-footer then look for a 7-footer.
 
Renegade4006 said:
The first thing that I would recommend is to measure the area where you are going to place the table. You say a 7-foot or 8-foot. It will make a difference in the room you need. Measure and see what space you really have to work with. That will help narrow your search. If you have any doubt on room for the 8-footer then look for a 7-footer.
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Yeah I measured the room and the maximum size I could get is an 8ft, but I wouldn't mind getting a 7ft either so I have more room around the table. I factored in playing surface dimensions and overall table dimensions from end rail to end rail.
 
You may also want to consider whether a one-piece slate is an option, as a trip upstairs with a one piece may be far more difficult than three trips with a less cumbersome load. If you find a Valley or similar bar table that you like, there are after market rail upgrades available (e.g. Penguin) that can improve the way they play, as well as tighten the pockets.

https://penguin-brand.com/collections/pool-table-rails/products/pro-pocket-rails

Places that sell pool tables, or "amusement" vendors that supply them to bars sometimes have used tables sitting in storage. It can't hurt to ask. They might move it for you, as well.
 
I've done a lot of research and looking while helping a friend get a table for his house.

What we came to conclusion on was that the furniture tables, you're buying the name only. Unless they're custom or stupid high end, they're all made of cheap shit and will fall apart if actually played on. Doesn't matter the brand, they're all going to be furniture pieces vs playable tables. I swear they're all made in the same factory with a different badge slapped on em.

We decided that getting an older table that was kept in good condition was the realistic avenue. We ended up finding an 8ft Gold Crown 3 in great shape. He paid a good chunk of change for it (I think it was like $1,800) but it was still wayyy cheaper than a brand new furniture table, and we all know how amazing GC3's play and look.

So, you got a few options. Either go with a high end older table like a GC3 and never regret it, or roll the dice that you'll be able to like a valley table. Valley's are cheap, plentiful, built like brick shithouses, and you can upgrade them til your heart is content. Only real downside to owning a valley is they make your house look like a bar room and less of a rec room, and the name valley and it's associated crap it gets. I personally love valley's that are doctored up to play well. My buddy bought one for $800 from a rental place, then threw penguin rails and simonis cloth on it. Can't tell the difference playing on that vs a diamond in my opinion.
 
When you say loft, what do you mean? I ask because if you want a commercial 7’ table your lower price option is a used valley which you can tighten up with ridgeback or penguin rails. That means one piece slate.

I had a Brunswick home 8’ table for many years. It was pretty good. Toward the end of my having it I had it shimmed up to 4.5” pockets. It played OK. I wanted a commercial level table. So it was Rasson, Brunswick, or Diamond 8’ or Rasson or Diamond 7’. I didn’t want a Valley, but I thought about it. I decided to go with a Diamond 7’ table because that is the most typical league or tournament table I play on and it fits well in the room. An 8’ table fits as well, but a 9’ wouldn’t. I went with 7’ because it is typical and not in between. If I play on a 9’ it is usually a Diamond and you just have to adjust. I’m happy with my decision. It plays way better than my older table IMO.

I would not be happy with a home style 7’ table. Remember they are a little smaller than a commercial 7’ table. Check the play field dimensions.

Anyway, if you want a commercial table you should get one if there is any way you can. If you get a home table I’d pass on the 7’ and probably get an 8’ like I had as
It is a little bigger than a commercial 7’. Typically 44x88 for the home 8’ vs 40x80 playfield for commercial 7’. You won’t ever love it probably. But it will play alright with good cloth.

I’d really try to save for a Diamond and you can get a 3 piece slate in the 7’if you need to to get the table installed. If that is not possible I’d think about a Valley with good cloth and ridgeback/ penguins way before a home 7’. IMO
 
for inside the house a furniture looking piece is the way to go. otherwise your house looks like a bar.
find a used olhausen in great shape and they are really good. just have pockets that rattle the balls if not hit well. and can be adjusted to eliminate much of that when installed.
or an old brunswick wooden table if you can find one.
i have both and they are great. and drop pockets are quiet if you have others in your house.

get the 8 foot if you can. 7 foot is not going to be fun after awhile. if you can get from inside the cushion(playing surface) to the wall of 5 feet you are good.

not many shots are straight away and on the cushion. and even those you get by fine.
 
My first question is how can you be the house pro in your own house when you don't have a table? 🤷‍♂️.

Find an 8' Anniversary or a 7' Diamond, although I've never had a bad time playing on a valley bar box

Furniture tables never feel like "real" tables. IMHO
 
Just my .02. Find a first class installer. That is the most important aspect. From there they might have access to new or used tables. They will help you select, maybe inspect something someone has for sale. Keep in mind used is is used. It might be lightly used or be a nightmare under the cloth.
 
I don't think I can get a Valley because my loft is on the 2nd floor and the installer I spoke with today said it will be hard to find someone who can take it up a flight of stairs, since they don't fully disassemble.
 
RidgeRaider said:
I've done a lot of research and looking while helping a friend get a table for his house.

What we came to conclusion on was that the furniture tables, you're buying the name only. Unless they're custom or stupid high end, they're all made of cheap shit and will fall apart if actually played on. Doesn't matter the brand, they're all going to be furniture pieces vs playable tables. I swear they're all made in the same factory with a different badge slapped on em.

We decided that getting an older table that was kept in good condition was the realistic avenue. We ended up finding an 8ft Gold Crown 3 in great shape. He paid a good chunk of change for it (I think it was like $1,800) but it was still wayyy cheaper than a brand new furniture table, and we all know how amazing GC3's play and look.

So, you got a few options. Either go with a high end older table like a GC3 and never regret it, or roll the dice that you'll be able to like a valley table. Valley's are cheap, plentiful, built like brick shithouses, and you can upgrade them til your heart is content. Only real downside to owning a valley is they make your house look like a bar room and less of a rec room, and the name valley and it's associated crap it gets. I personally love valley's that are doctored up to play well. My buddy bought one for $800 from a rental place, then threw penguin rails and simonis cloth on it. Can't tell the difference playing on that vs a diamond in my opinion.
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Thanks, maybe I will get lucky and find a GC3. Valley is out of the question since my loft is on the 2nd floor of my house.
 
JPB2 said:
When you say loft, what do you mean? I ask because if you want a commercial 7’ table your lower price option is a used valley which you can tighten up with ridgeback or penguin rails. That means one piece slate.

I had a Brunswick home 8’ table for many years. It was pretty good. Toward the end of my having it I had it shimmed up to 4.5” pockets. It played OK. I wanted a commercial level table. So it was Rasson, Brunswick, or Diamond 8’ or Rasson or Diamond 7’. I didn’t want a Valley, but I thought about it. I decided to go with a Diamond 7’ table because that is the most typical league or tournament table I play on and it fits well in the room. An 8’ table fits as well, but a 9’ wouldn’t. I went with 7’ because it is typical and not in between. If I play on a 9’ it is usually a Diamond and you just have to adjust. I’m happy with my decision. It plays way better than my older table IMO.

I would not be happy with a home style 7’ table. Remember they are a little smaller than a commercial 7’ table. Check the play field dimensions.

Anyway, if you want a commercial table you should get one if there is any way you can. If you get a home table I’d pass on the 7’ and probably get an 8’ like I had as
It is a little bigger than a commercial 7’. Typically 44x88 for the home 8’ vs 40x80 playfield for commercial 7’. You won’t ever love it probably. But it will play alright with good cloth.

I’d really try to save for a Diamond and you can get a 3 piece slate in the 7’if you need to to get the table installed. If that is not possible I’d think about a Valley with good cloth and ridgeback/ penguins way before a home 7’. IMO
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Thank you sir, this was super helpful! By loft I mean it is on the 2nd floor of my single-family home.
 
Kris_b1104 said:
Yeah I measured the room and the maximum size I could get is an 8ft, but I wouldn't mind getting a 7ft either so I have more room around the table. I factored in playing surface dimensions and overall table dimensions from end rail to end rail.
Click to expand...
There is nothing wrong with a 7'.... In the early years my basement could only handle a 3x6....I did not get it but they are fun also. Buy the largest table without comprising the cue length.
 
These guys have an 8.5 Anniversary, maybe that's too big (I'm biased, as I have a very old 8.5) and other tables and I'd guess you are checking out various sites in Colorado on your own and no idea if these guys are any good, of course, but other tables as well. https://thepooltableexperts.com/pool-tables-for-sale.htm. But I'd guess a few places to check out for ideas on price if nothing else.

I'd sure get at least an 8 footer and decent cushions and slate and it should be fine but maybe find some help evaluating - maybe not worry about making it some sort of customized tournament table - might learn more on larger pockets? And in the end, why have a tougher playing table - but just one opinion, maybe you compete.

If you like playing on 7 foot tables then why not - it's your house!
 
I bought an Olhausen about 10 years ago. Once debugged, it has been a fine table. The original installer did not seat the slates on the frame properly (hold down screws), and somehow the slates squeezed beeswax out of the joint, which caused problems. In addition the bolts from the slates to rails were not torqued properly and needed constant adjustments to prevent a dead rail.

On the first cloth change (3 yr) the excess bees wax was removed, I used a dremel tool on the edges of the slates to remove a line where a ball bouncing off the back of the pocket could cut the cloth if velocity was sufficient--without altering the shelf length, and I had the pockets "double shimmed" for a smaller opening.

3 years ago the table went into storage, and I set it up when it got back {I did table mechanics back in the Frat House 1973-77}. So far, none of the gremlins have reappeared--and I an happy with the table, flatness, seams, rails, ... Moral, have someone who actually knows what he is doing do the install--not someone who says he knows what he is doing.

There are 5 levels of furniture grade tables--prices from memory.
1) veneer over particleboard .......................... $1500 way back when
2) veneer over cheap wood ............................ $2000 way back when
3) hardwood fronts particleboard backing $2500 way back when
4) hardwood fronts cheap wood . backing $3300 way back when
5) hardwood throughout ................................. $5000 way back when

Somewhere in the middle, the slate backing wood changes from cheap wood to poplar so the cloth can be changed more times before ... If you buy a furniture table, crawl up underneath it to view the interior wood(s) ... buying a used furniture table is an exercise in frustration--especially if the first buyer specified the wrong step on the ladder. This/these are the main reasons to specify a Diamond of Gold Crown--lots of cheap furniture tables and few top-end furniture tables. Buying a D or GC simply removes the debugging process from your list of "to dos".

I do not think my journey would have turned out as well as it did if I had not learned "table mechanics" at the Frat House. One year we even replaced the slate backing wood on a 90 year old table--it took forever to get the slates level.
 
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