ferrule

C

chuckg

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a Lucasi ld shaft with many cracks in the ferrule , Very unsightly but it still plays okay . Cue is out of warranty so will have a local repair man fix it . What would be a good choice of material ? I am not concerned about losing any low deflection properties .

Thanks

Chuckg
 
chuckg said:
I have a Lucasi ld shaft with many cracks in the ferrule , Very unsightly but it still plays okay . Cue is out of warranty so will have a local repair man fix it . What would be a good choice of material ? I am not concerned about losing any low deflection properties .

Thanks

Chuckg
Click to expand...

chuckg said:
I have a Lucasi ld shaft with many cracks in the ferrule , Very unsightly but it still plays okay . Cue is out of warranty so will have a local repair man fix it . What would be a good choice of material ? I am not concerned about losing any low deflection properties .

Thanks

Chuckg
Click to expand...
I'm also a player, the hit is our own feel. i Ill check and see what they use, might be something i'd recommend. I know changing ferrule material is like changing tips, the hit changes. No one person can say any one taper, ferrule, or tip is the best. It's all subjective to a person
 
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I'm guessing the OP is a player and not a cue maker and looking for a players perspective on ferrule material , maybe the hit and durability.
 
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I have used Tomahawk and Hydex a lot and I haven't seen these materials melt or create a "diamond" shape like I often see on Cynergy ferrules or the old Taom break tips. That said it's nothing wrong with using Juma or Elforyn either, they are tried and true. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but from lightest to heaviest I think the correct ranking is:
- Tomahawk
- Elforyn
- Hydex
- Juma
But the weight difference is very small, so as a player I honestly wouldn't worry about it at all.
 
Kim Bye said:
I have used Tomahawk and Hydex a lot and I haven't seen these materials melt or create a "diamond" shape like I often see on Cynergy ferrules or the old Taom break tips. That said it's nothing wrong with using Juma or Elforyn either, they are tried and true. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but from lightest to heaviest I think the correct ranking is:
- Tomahawk
- Elforyn
- Hydex
- Juma
But the weight difference is very small, so as a player I honestly wouldn't worry about it at all.
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Kim,
I believe that Hydex might be slightly "lighter" than Tomahawk, while Tomahawk is slightly "stronger" than Hydex, based on numbers that I have reviewed from the manufacturers of both materials. Your assessment is correct...The materials on your list will all suit their intended purpose.
Best regards
j2
 
Kim Bye said:
I have used Tomahawk and Hydex a lot and I haven't seen these materials melt or create a "diamond" shape like I often see on Cynergy ferrules or the old Taom break tips. That said it's nothing wrong with using Juma or Elforyn either, they are tried and true. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but from lightest to heaviest I think the correct ranking is:
- Tomahawk
- Elforyn
- Hydex
- Juma
But the weight difference is very small, so as a player I honestly wouldn't worry about it at all.
Click to expand...
The other day I was replacing the ferule on a shaft and it was threaded 5/16-18 I thought but for some reason the tenon was a bit thick. Like .330" and about .270" on the minor so I decided to build a ferule for it instead of making the tenon smaller. Cut a piece of hydex and drilled it out to .250" and then bored it to .275". So far so good. I live threaded it I took my first pass .020" deep which is my standard first cut on ferules. Nothing to see. Went back and took another pass at .010" and when the threader came out it had melted plastic on it plugging it up and the threads looked like crap. The thread mill is fine I believe as I have threaded a bunch of ferules and tenons with it since. I know feeds and speeds and technique but all things considered I find these materials too soft at too low of a temp. I have also had a sharp 5/16 drill overheat and gum up in them and never in juma. All things equal I'll stick with tried and true and leave the other to people who think they can tell the difference in how they hit. I sure can't.

Your mileage may vary this is my experience and opinion and disagreeing will not butt hurt me.
 
Coos Cues said:
The other day I was replacing the ferule on a shaft and it was threaded 5/16-18 I thought but for some reason the tenon was a bit thick. Like .330" and about .270" on the minor so I decided to build a ferule for it instead of making the tenon smaller. Cut a piece of hydex and drilled it out to .250" and then bored it to .275". So far so good. I live threaded it I took my first pass .020" deep which is my standard first cut on ferules. Nothing to see. Went back and took another pass at .010" and when the threader came out it had melted plastic on it plugging it up and the threads looked like crap. The thread mill is fine I believe as I have threaded a bunch of ferules and tenons with it since. I know feeds and speeds and technique but all things considered I find these materials too soft at too low of a temp. I have also had a sharp 5/16 drill overheat and gum up in them and never in juma. All things equal I'll stick with tried and true and leave the other to people who think they can tell the difference in how they hit. I sure can't.

Your mileage may vary this is my experience and opinion and disagreeing will not butt hurt me.
Click to expand...
John not to argue what you tell us happened, but can we see how many variables could have caused this. Let's be fair and rule them out. Anyone reading this, is welcome to chime in. I'm learning, we are all learning
 
Yes, I get a little pucker when drilling the first hole in Tomahawk from the heat, but after that no problems drilling, boring, or tapping. I am new to Hydex but no issues so far.

Here are some videos live threading and taping.


 
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