Thanks Mike, I was afraid to try anything for fear I might make things worse. I'll start with the least aggressive approach with the simichrome first and work from there.
Hey Mike, Do you know a safe way to restore the finish of the nickel joint? That's the only blemish on my Palmer and can be seen on one of the pictures I posted. Thanks for any tips you or anyone could provide me.
I'm not a table mechanic but I'm still thinking it could be the floor. Depending on the where the 1200 plus pound table is positioned, the construction of how the beams are running and supported below there will be a weaker area under one of the legs. If one leg is sagging more than the other...
That's pretty bad...It could also be your floor is sagging from the weight. I just helped a friend who had similar issues. We ended up putting adjustable posts in. I agree with the rest to call your mechanic before you end up with a cracked slate
Agreed, it all tells a story. As for my Palmer, it was given to me by a good friend. I think it’s pretty cool to have his name on it. I plan on buying or making a display case for it and a few other vintage cues I have.
Thanks for clearing that up. I know for a fact that this cue was sent back to Palmer in the 80’s to have the name changed in the window. I wasn’t sure if something was changed at that time or was put back to original. I’m guessing it had to be taken apart to change the name.
I recently acquired a Palmer cue that appears to be a model 10 in the first catalog. My question is about the black butt sleeve above and below the foil window area. There’s not any like the one I have in the catalog. Was this an option back in the day or has this cue been customized? I’m hoping...