Recent content by Dave38

Agree with Dave, cracked joint....will need more than a shaft done. Try a 5/16x18 nut on it, if it screws on that, is what it is

I agree, Dave. I thought the same thing, and have gone thru it too. Especially Purpleheart. In the picture, some of it looks like dust but most of it looks embedded, like strands, in the wood itself. No hiding that easily.

only if he fell asleep about 20 minutes into it. I charge $75 + with me supplying the blank, with ALL the prep, and I do move slow, start to finish is about an hour. I am retired and do it for the passion.....but 4 hrs.....IDK....nap time?

I ALWAYS sand any tip including kamui clears to INSURE that the bottom is PERFECTLY FLAT! Many tips are NOT and that leads to a tip popping off.

PROCEDURE FOR RADIAL® PIN SHAFT INSTALLATION 1. CENTER DRILL TO A 5/16 DIAMETER 2. DRILL .312 DIAMETER 2.300 3. TAP WITH RADIAL® TAP 2.00 DEEP Mike is not incorrect to use a reamer.

I tried to post the video but the server said the file was too large so I'll try to do another one that's shorter I guess, but I can't do that until Monday as I'm officiating our tri-cups this weekend and won't have the time.

the .550" cap is so when done, you don't see a spiral from the threads. It's a full circle. if doing a fully threaded plug, it will look lopsided and will show the epoxy line which, performance wise is not an issue, but from a professional side looks horrible.I'll post a video next.

I use an insert cutter made to cut aluminum and run it about 900 rpm. Cuts smooth. Then I center drill and drill/bore and tap.

Okay, was wondering if you had a way to make an allen wrench fitting on them, like cuefits had on their POM fittings.

Nice, how do you tighten them down on the cue?

Let me clarify, I was speaking solely about the Huebler repairs. When I did those yrs ago, I didn't think to use a threaded nylon bolt as an insert. On regular shafts, I bore approx. .420" hole, tap at 1/2x13 and then bore the end to fit the .550" head. The dowel was a test run, and got tapped...

I always drill/bore a .5" dia. hole then plugged it with maple, the drilled/bored tapped for the insert of nylon. Then drilled tapped for the joint pin.

I haven't had to, outside of a couple hueblers back in the day due to cross threading. Had no issues boring them out with a 1/2 endmill then plugging and making a new nylon insert.

I have found that trying to make threaded inserts consumes a lot of time and I'm not really set up for live threading so trying to do die threading has not worked so well either. What I do now is I buy 2" nylon bolts 1/2 inch by 13 and I turned the head down to.550" and then I bore tap the hole...

More info required like is it a 90vdc motor or a 180vdc? pics and specs.....