Recent content by ratcues

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Ideally, I would use ebony dust mixed with epoxy. The black Starbond CA is a different black and I notice a difference when finish is applied.

There were two parts to my response. The CNC alone does not create a tight veneers. The knowledge, methods, tool availability, etc, due to being able to find and access tooling and information has made it easier. Do you think you would be where you are right now in your journey without, at any...

Most of the cues I see from this era have miter gaps. Pre-CNC and internet. Best hitting cues on the planet.

What fumes are you getting from Stack wraps?

PVC or ABS.

I rebuild cues all the time. if it isn't too bad, I'd recommend not cutting it apart. As Mike said, send it to Fred as your first option.

Who made the cue?

I've always wanted one of these. Super cool cues.

Most shafts from the 80s had a shorter, 12" taper. That, coupled with a SS collar, 5/16-14 pin, and Aegis or ivory ferrule, made for quite the "ping."

Prime the pad on both sides with CA glue, if that's what you're using. Tips and fiber pads are porous and CA glues wicks in, leaving less glue to for the actual bond. A better option would be a 30 minute epoxy.

Is the failure between the tip/pad or the pad/ferrule?

I'm not a fan. I cut the tips to be straight with the ferrule, unless requested.

I used DAU75 as a base coat and sprayed DC2000 over it for years.

The side wall needs to flex so hardening it with CA is not a good idea, imo.