Recent content by ratcues

I used DAU75 as a base coat and sprayed DC2000 over it for years.

The side wall needs to flex so hardening it with CA is not a good idea, imo.

Exactly. I've repaired more buttcaps from cues with bumpers than from bumperless. Look how well the Hoppe caps held up.

Two things; 1st, antique cues didn't come with a bumper. The bumper was added as noise suppression, as opposed to protection. 2nd, s mentioned above, the cue will slide on floors and "tink" when tapped around hard floors. Players generally do not care for bumperless cues.

That member builds, sells, and represents Unique Inc lathes.

I use white Elmers glue for all wraps.

The easiest and fastest for me is to wrap it twice with linen, seal between layers, then use the wrap of your choice.

Required? No. Recommended? Yes. It is easier, faster, and cheaper to fill wood pores with epoxy sealer than it is with spray finish.

Building a mid cue extension is similar to building JPs. A lot of tedious work for little profit. Any cue maker can build one, but the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

With enough torque, it will work...

Do you have any references or anyone that can vouch for you?

This.^^^ I always called it a fog coat.

If you use spray foam with one end closed, please take a video of yourself spraying into the shaft. (Hint; the compressed air must go somewhere)

I've cut apart and reassembled 100s of cues. I've seen some pretty interesting A joints and a couple that challenge everything I think I know about cue construction. Conclusion? There is no secret sauce. It does have influence on the overall feel of a cue but, not as much as I once thought.

Viking uses finger joints for the A Joint.