Recent content by ratcues

Prime the pad on both sides with CA glue, if that's what you're using. Tips and fiber pads are porous and CA glues wicks in, leaving less glue to for the actual bond. A better option would be a 30 minute epoxy.

Is the failure between the tip/pad or the pad/ferrule?

I'm not a fan. I cut the tips to be straight with the ferrule, unless requested.

I used DAU75 as a base coat and sprayed DC2000 over it for years.

The side wall needs to flex so hardening it with CA is not a good idea, imo.

Exactly. I've repaired more buttcaps from cues with bumpers than from bumperless. Look how well the Hoppe caps held up.

Two things; 1st, antique cues didn't come with a bumper. The bumper was added as noise suppression, as opposed to protection. 2nd, s mentioned above, the cue will slide on floors and "tink" when tapped around hard floors. Players generally do not care for bumperless cues.

That member builds, sells, and represents Unique Inc lathes.

I use white Elmers glue for all wraps.

The easiest and fastest for me is to wrap it twice with linen, seal between layers, then use the wrap of your choice.

Required? No. Recommended? Yes. It is easier, faster, and cheaper to fill wood pores with epoxy sealer than it is with spray finish.

Building a mid cue extension is similar to building JPs. A lot of tedious work for little profit. Any cue maker can build one, but the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

With enough torque, it will work...

Do you have any references or anyone that can vouch for you?

This.^^^ I always called it a fog coat.