Recent content by SSDiver2112

Haven't seen the OP chime in. I wonder if he got the cue and what he thought about it.

Hard to tell from just that picture. End grain helps if possible. 1- Mahogany 2- Brownheart 3- Rosewood

Quilted Sapele and Ebony Rounceville Blank. Abalone inlays, Copper rings and copper radial joint pin

My latest uses a Prather curly maple forearm. 6 long/short points, Olive wood and Rosewood. Black mother of pearl inlays, imitation ivory collar and butt plate, with maple and Kielwood shafts.

It is a must for me. I change tools too often. That ThinBit looks interesting too.

If you have a quick change tool post, I use these. Easy to sharpen.

Absolutely, Thank you for the opportunity. Pot some balls!!

Busy, busy, busy... My first international cue just arrived in England to a fellow AZB'er. He had a forearm from Prather shipped to me. After some back and forth on the design and it was off to the races. As a newer cue maker, I picked a slow horse, and it did take me a bit longer to make than...

Thank you for the shoutout! Why what do you know???

Possibly no need to send it off if the existing bumper is threaded or there is a weight bolt hole. The extension bumpers are available in different threads so you may be able to switch it out yourself and then just order the extension or have one custom made to match or at least look good.

I’ve had no issues with mine nor any of the others I’ve made so far.

Roasted Curly Maple (Kielwood) looks and plays great. Purpleheart is better for a break shaft.

Could that be Bondo?

If you move it to the Main forum. You'll probably get more responses.

Then you really need a cue smith. The shaft is easy the pin is much more difficult.