Recent content by Stellar1024

Curious if you guys have any tricks or techniques or specific products you use that maintains the highly polished look of a metal inlay once the clear coat is applied. I typically use automotive clearcoat, but I've also experimented with cyanoacrylate and epoxy and have gotten pretty similar...

Can I bore hard jaws?

Oh weird I guess maybe they are plastic .. I was hoping for anodized aluminum...

I don't know but those look great... The one I got gets in the way and I'd be interested in these for sure...

I use a taper bar but that shouldn't really matter as long as they have a reliable method...

I'm in Dfw and I could do it ..

As straight as you can get it, but gotta be realistic.. wood moves regularly...

And all of that material really only made it 25% lighter? Seriously looks like you removed 50%

I feel like I'd trust an aluminum pin much more than a hollow stainless pin...

I usually make the cue then determine pin material based on the weight... If I'm already heavy then I go for an aluminum pin, otherwise stainless...

Do you guys have anywhere aside from Atlas to get brightly colored, reasonably thick veneers? Atlas isn't horrible, but I wish they had more colors available.. I've had a lot of difficulty finding certain colors and if I do find anything they're usually really thin and often not very vibrant...

All fun and games until you have to do the inlay on a tapered cylinder instead of a flat piece of wood in a vice...

Have seen these cues in Vegas the last couple years and tbh, they're the nicest cues of any vendor there... They're beautiful cues, but can't comment on how well they play. Great price point though... Some Chinese stuff is pretty well made these days -- just look at Rasson.

If made in california it would definitely tell you about the 30 types of cancer using it could potentially cause...

Oh and I also suggest buying a little lock for the duffle bag, just to make sure it isn't accidentally or purposely opened...