Who builds the Becue, full pool cues, and are they popular?

Well it finally happened. After several hours on the phone with UPS agents and many emails between Becue and myself the cue arrived safe and sound.

I have hit balls for about an hour and I will say I like the cue. Fit and finish is superb and the brown leather wrap was done well and sets off the cue. The wrap starts low on the butt and is shorter than standard wraps which gives a different look.

It won't take me long to adjust to it as I play with many types of cues. The tone when striking the cue ball with it sounds great, I was worried about that.

I also received the two cue extensions and they go on quick and are very secure. Due to my height I have never used an extension but I just tried them out, wow what a difference. Short extension seems to be about 2.5" and maybe 6" for the other and they can be used together.
Send pictures please 🙏
 
My NBN arrived today! Packaging great, arrived safely. They were having a Christmas free "goodies" promotion when I ordered - some of the stuff seemed worth getting . . . I didn't get any of it, haha. A wristband - I guess if I charged myself cover to access the basement I could've worn it when I played, lol; some pretty crappy thing I think was a bottle opener (hit the trash with the wristband); and a pen, and I like pens, that I doubt I'll ever use --- seriously Becue, you delayed my order and gave me the bottom of the fun barrel to make up for it.

Now that we're done with the world's smallest violin . . . .

The cue is very, very sleek. Love the feel and the look, but slick as well and took some getting used to with the feel in/on my bridge hand. I've never had a wrap and the leather wrap is a good reminder for my right hand, unobtrusive, I really like it. However, the fit/spacing where the grip comes together in the middle and not on the ends is intentional but wasn't executed as well as it could have been and I expect a corner area or two to catch on something at some point - may sound picky, but it should have been perfect.

I opted for the transparent ferrule. Once I started using it, I understood why many would like the white as an aiming point of reference. I traded that for what I think is a better look and after an hour plus at the table it wasn't something I even thought about, but again, I see where many would like the white when looking down the cue.

The Kamui soft tip is just fine, and I like those, seems to be "right".

I was really, really impressed with the feel on solid hits and overall when using it, and sound is nothing unusual to me, so I guess I like the sound. Only time I noticed anything odd with sound was on light, crappy hits and it had a sound I haven't figured out how to describe but not an issue.

The only cue I have relatable to this one is my Diveney with a trans k kielwood shaft. It's a Sneaky Pete and the only other cue I own I'd describe as "sleek" - smooth and silky, maybe a hair of a slender feel. These two cues perform very similar IMO, but that's only from a bit over an hour of messing around, so this is all a bunch of first impressions.

I know Becue uses the word "flexible" and it's mentioned above somewhere but I think it's at least as low deflection as the Diveney (no expert here) and definitely perceive a difference vs. my other wood cues, Maybe the "flexible" is a feel thing? I have zero experience with any other CF shaft/cue. All I can say is it played and felt pretty natural but firm from the first few balls I sent down table, so maybe since all I've ever used are wood cues and the transition doesn't seem that unusual, they've accomplished in feel what they are going for. Who knows.

The 12.5 tip seemed small to me, and I had to check the markings on the cue and get out something to measure it with, lol. Maybe it's the black shaft and the transparent ferrule, maybe something about the taper --- looking from above vs. a couple of other 12.5s the tips seem the same, but the feel/look when using it is maybe 12.5 "light".

The Diveney is my favorite and I'm pretty happy that this cue compares very well with it in many ways. I don't compete and will mix it up when playing at home and use different cues. The Becue will be getting lots of time this week - I really, really like it and not even a hint of regret about ordering it.
I know what you mean about the firmer hit, took me awhile to figure it out, a full CF cue (butt and shaft) transfers the energy from your stroke more efficiently, it's designed that way, the Engage shaft even more so, I'm using the Prime II 12.0 and it's the perfect balance of shaft flex and energy transfer to me, you don't have to "power" your shot, had a friend over the other night and he couldn't believe the amount of spin I was getting, I can go one tip below center and draw it half table length with ease, try taking a little power off and focus on smooth follow through and enjoy the results 😀
 
Spent a lot of time yesterday just working on different shots and racked up six 9 ball racks, after a little work on the tip. Ball in hand after the break. Really am enjoying the cue. Not saying it wouldn't have been possible with three or four other cues, lol, but they weren't at the table ----- one seven balls and then out, and one six balls and then . . . missed the world's easiest shot on the 9 (I'm ready for the Mosconi Cup :D). For me, that's really good and no doubt I'm biased by using it a lot, and getting used to it, but it's a darn good cue. I got the weight kit and what the heck, I'm going to do a little experimenting with it here in a little bit - might as well understand how it works and whether I like a different feel.
I don't know what radius you have on your tip but I was using a dime radius for a long time,I was miscuing and couldn't go very low on the cueball, thought the Bulletproof Recoil tip was the problem, followed Dr Dave's advice and reshaped it to a nickel radius and it was like night and day, just changed my teammates to a nickel the other night and got the same result with a different tip. I'm using a 12.0 mm shaft my friend's is a 12.5mm
 
I don't know what radius you have on your tip but I was using a dime radius for a long time,I was miscuing and couldn't go very low on the cueball, thought the Bulletproof Recoil tip was the problem, followed Dr Dave's advice and reshaped it to a nickel radius and it was like night and day, just changed my teammates to a nickel the other night and got the same result with a different tip. I'm using a 12.0 mm shaft my friend's is a 12.5mm
NIckel here, just inconsistent stroke, lol.
 
I don't know what radius you have on your tip but I was using a dime radius for a long time,I was miscuing and couldn't go very low on the cueball, thought the Bulletproof Recoil tip was the problem, followed Dr Dave's advice and reshaped it to a nickel radius and it was like night and day, just changed my teammates to a nickel the other night and got the same result with a different tip. I'm using a 12.0 mm shaft my friend's is a 12.5mm
I don't know what radius you have on your tip but I was using a dime radius for a long time,I was miscuing and couldn't go very low on the cueball, thought the Bulletproof Recoil tip was the problem, followed Dr Dave's advice and reshaped it to a nickel radius and it was like night and day, just changed my teammates to a nickel the other night and got the same result with a different tip. I'm using a 12.0 mm shaft my friend's is a 12.5mm
what tip hardness are you using?
 
what tip hardness are you using?
I'm using a Bulletproof Recoil hard (green) tip, best tip I have ever used, I wasn't a hard tip guy, after trying the TAOM FUSION tip I grew to like a hard tip, all hard tips are unforgiving, hit it right and your good, hit it wrong and it'll let you know 😉
 
I'm using a Bulletproof Recoil hard (green) tip, best tip I have ever used, I wasn't a hard tip guy, after trying the TAOM FUSION tip I grew to like a hard tip, all hard tips are unforgiving, hit it right and your good, hit it wrong and it'll let you know 😉
that was I was thinking. I think it would be more forgiving using a soft tip for a dime size tip. I used to play with a nickel tip and transitioned to a dime when I went from a 13 to a 12.5 to an 11.5 tip. now, the only time that I miscued on most occasion using a dime shape tip is when I didn't shape it properly. as of the moment, I'm using both soft and medium tip and I draw just the same with both tips. only difference is I get more punch on the medium and offset with the soft. haven't tried using the more recent hard ones we have now so I don't know. maybe I'll install that Bulletproof on my spare shaft.
 
that was I was thinking. I think it would be more forgiving using a soft tip for a dime size tip. I used to play with a nickel tip and transitioned to a dime when I went from a 13 to a 12.5 to an 11.5 tip. now, the only time that I miscued on most occasion using a dime shape tip is when I didn't shape it properly. as of the moment, I'm using both soft and medium tip and I draw just the same with both tips. only difference is I get more punch on the medium and offset with the soft. haven't tried using the more recent hard ones we have now so I don't know. maybe I'll install that Bulletproof on my spare shaft.
Dr Dave says 10.5 mm is the magic number for a dime radius, I did use an 11.8 mm shaft and am using a 12.0mm shaft now, I can't believe how far I can go high,low or sidespin since I reshaped my tip.
 
Dr Dave says 10.5 mm is the magic number for a dime radius, I did use an 11.8 mm shaft and am using a 12.0mm shaft now, I can't believe how far I can go high,low or sidespin since I reshaped my tip.
it does make a world of difference from my experience. a few of my fellow players observed me and wonder how can I go so low without miscuing. like I said, the only times I miscued was on a badly shaped tip. although I want to try a hard tip just to see how it goes.
 
it does make a world of difference from my experience. a few of my fellow players observed me and wonder how can I go so low without miscuing. like I said, the only times I miscued was on a badly shaped tip. although I want to try a hard tip just to see how it goes.
The Bulletproof Recoil tip is a really hard tip but it holds chalk like no other, once you shape it all you need is a TipPik type tool to rough it up, I just tap it straight in at the same curvature as the tip and it lasts for about 20 hours of continuous play, you will get a minimum of 1 year out of the tip but I suspect double if not triple that, I also had an 1/8" acrylic pad added, I find no difference in hit and it will save you from having to replace the clear or white ferrule for a long time if ever.
 
The Bulletproof Recoil tip is a really hard tip but it holds chalk like no other, once you shape it all you need is a TipPik type tool to rough it up, I just tap it straight in at the same curvature as the tip and it lasts for about 20 hours of continuous play, you will get a minimum of 1 year out of the tip but I suspect double if not triple that, I also had an 1/8" acrylic pad added, I find no difference in hit and it will save you from having to replace the clear or white ferrule for a long time if ever.
I have a pad added for that purpose to save me from sanding the ferrule. As long as the tip sticks, it won't be problem. Have to replace my previous glue with a different one. Glue sticks like a mofo that I didn't even have to press it.
 
Dr Dave says 10.5 mm is the magic number for a dime radius, I did use an 11.8 mm shaft and am using a 12.0mm shaft now, I can't believe how far I can go high,low or sidespin since I reshaped my tip.
I saw that video. I play with a 10.5 and thought "oh, perfect." Got my tips shaped to a dime radius and...miscued too much. They've since flattened/been reshaped to a nickel and I'm back to normal.

I'll have to rewatch that video to see how rigorously he made that determination.
 
The Bulletproof Recoil tip is a really hard tip but it holds chalk like no other, once you shape it all you need is a TipPik type tool to rough it up, I just tap it straight in at the same curvature as the tip and it lasts for about 20 hours of continuous play, you will get a minimum of 1 year out of the tip but I suspect double if not triple that, I also had an 1/8" acrylic pad added, I find no difference in hit and it will save you from having to replace the clear or white ferrule for a long time if ever.
I wish. Both my shafts have green Recoils. Both have needed scuffing every 4-5hrs of play. I bought their own scuffer and then I needed scuffing every 2-3 hrs. It was ridiculous. I've found the Willard's tool works best--probably can push it to 7-8.
 
As for the actual topic...I hit with an 11.8 Becue shaft for about 30 mins at a vendor booth last year. It was by far my favorite CF shaft I've ever hit with. It was the perfect combination of stiffness and feel/feedback. By that point, I was already playing with a 10.5, which is a strong preference. But if Becue ever releases a 10.5 I'll be first in line.
 
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The Bulletproof Recoil tip is a really hard tip but it holds chalk like no other, once you shape it all you need is a TipPik type tool to rough it up, I just tap it straight in at the same curvature as the tip and it lasts for about 20 hours of continuous play, you will get a minimum of 1 year out of the tip but I suspect double if not triple that, I also had an 1/8" acrylic pad added, I find no difference in hit and it will save you from having to replace the clear or white ferrule for a long time if ever.
I have an el-cheapo tip tool that I attached with a 60 grit sandpaper. found that better for spreading the chalk sticks more evenly especially on the top of the cue tip.
 
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