It’s the Indian’s wife who controls the Indian who controls the arrowIts the indian not the arrow……![]()
It’s the Indian’s wife who controls the Indian who controls the arrowIts the indian not the arrow……![]()
many top players use a hard tip for various reasons to them. and tip hardness is mostly mental.
but the mental aspect does affect players, so that alone makes changing appreciate. but at least understand the why of it, rather than think its the equipment.
Just chiming in to comment about your son. I knew a young kid like this when I was a serious golfer. He was a baseball player and man he could hit the ball. We had a 424 yard par 4 and he caught a driver from the back tees and ended up over the green and on top of the tee box for the next hole, about 40 yards past the fringe of the green. I believe he made six from there.Allow me to present a question about the cue you’ve chosen to play with and something that occurred this past weekend. My first cue was 19 ozs. It was a Palmer. Why 19 ozs? Because that’s what everyone told me to get when in actuality, I bet half of the players didn’t know the weight of their cue. When I had my first custom built, the joint had to be piloted 5/16x14 and Cortland Linen because George Balabushka built cues that way and I also learned along the way that joint seems indestructible. And yet today, almost all my cues are flat ivory….Hmn?
How much do you know about your pool cue aside from joint type and tip? What is the taper length, shaft diameter, weight, butt diameter, any weight bolt & how heavy, butt diameter and weight, and did you have any say in how the cue was made or did you buy it used or new but unused? Now none of the aforementioned is needed for you to be a great player. I know many can just take a cue from the pool hall rack and still run racks as if it didn’t matter in the slightest. But there are more players that would shoot better if they used their own pool cue.
I wonder how much a player can improve if he experimented with different cues and then decided what he preferred. The best way is to be able to actuall messure and track the differences and performance by quantifiable measurements which is difficult to do & time consuming. After all, how many of us are equipped or capable of objectively measuring deflection, cue ball speed, horizontal English application, etc.?
Over the weekend, my son had another golf club fitting that was separated into a 14 club fitting ( woods & hybrid, irons, wedges and putter). He still has the putter fitting to complete but on Saturday he did woods & hybrids. Now he already had club fittings because as my gift to him, instead of a custom cue being built for him at my expense or picking any one of my cues, he needed clubs.
He has only been playing about 9 months and never had a lesson but he starts a series of 7 lessons next month (1 per month). Anyway, I gifted him a complete set of clubs and we went through several fittings to decide on his needs. Equipment is not cheap I learned and there are putters that cost $600-$700. That just seems crazy since I gave him 5-6 putters and my old Ping Eye clubs to get him started. Well, boy was that a bad mismatch for his shaft needs. Since was intended to be going to be a set of clubs he could play with for the next decade or longer. I wanted to get the best.
He has the great set of clubs anyone could hope for as an amateur but how well can he use them. We already knew he can hit a golf ball far from his time on the range hitting a 5 iron 210 yards but not consistently. Saturday he had his driver checked during the 14 club fitting for woods and he needed to add a hybrid. With just one minor change to his shaft length & shaft flex point on his woods, he distance exploded.
By shortening his 3 wood, he hit one 303 yards carry and the others were 285-295 yds. During his fitting for a hybrid, he tested 6 brands and favored one that he ordered that day. It was a 21 degree hybrid, or basically a 7 wood and he clobbered it 250, 264, 280, 285 and 294 yds……..Yikes, the average tour player gets 231 yds. carry swinging 102 mph and 149 ball speed. His swing speed with the hybrid was 103.3, 105.1, 107.6, 109.9, 110.8 mp & ball speed was 148.7, 150.9, 158.6, 159.7, 159.5.
By shortening his driver shaft, changing the weight and flex in a different extra-stiff shaft, he hit a drive of……get this…..322 yards carry, 357 total yards. He already ordered new shafts for his driver and 3 wood.
Based on how he can hit the ball, I think the move is to dump his 4 wood and carry 5 wedges instead of 4 (44, 48, 52, 56 & 60 degree wedges) because he going to rely on wedges and 8-9 iron a lot. He now has 44, 50, 54, & 58 degree Volkey wedges. So dump the 4 iron, bend 3 shafts and add another Volkey wedge. He plays the new Titleist Black Vapor wedges that match his TM Shadowfall irons and his driver is a TM Shadowfall Qi4D LS Driver. This is going to be fun to watch him develop. With a driver swing of 119-122 mph, oh boy, lookout.
Back to pool…..from 1963 thru 2004, I always played with a piloted steel joint and then by accident, had opportunity to play with a Tim Scruggs flat ivory cue joint that was 2 ozs. lighter than my Runde Schon. ‘D normally not look to test play a cue that light or with that joint but it was a pretty cue and the guy that owned played very impressively.
Well, I was unprepared for the difference in feel and my sense of being able to control cue ball speed better and my stroke fell more balanced. After that, I switched my approach to pool cues and made an equipment change I do not regret. It would be great to be able to get fitted for a cue like golf clubs so they can be adjusted to your needs.
So I’ll close with this question. How often do you get to try other pool cues or do you even care? Do you think there could be a better fit?
Under Tiger's hardness-ranking system, Everest is only a medium hardness while its harder Emerald is medium hard and its hardest tips---only its break tips---ranked hard and super hard, Dynamite, Break, and IceBreaker.My new cue came with a Tiger Everest that is ROCK hard, and is definitely making me play worse.
Under Tiger's hardness-ranking system, Everest is only a medium hardness while its harder Emerald is medium hard and its hardest tips, its break tips, are ranked hard and super hard, Dynamite, Break, and IceBreaker.
IceBreaker:
Hardness: Super Hard+ (7)
Durometer (Type A): 99+
Durometer (Type B/C): 96-99View attachment 925128
Break Laminated:
Hardness: Hard+ (6)
Durometer (Type A): 98
Durometer (Type B/C): 92-95
Dynamite Laminated (used in break cues):
Hardness: Hard (5)
Durometer (Type A): 97
Durometer (Type B/C): 80-83
Emerald Laminated:
Hardness: Medium Hard (4)
Durometer (Type A): 96
Durometer (Type B/C): 76-79
Everest Laminated:
Hardness: Medium (3+)
Durometer (Type A): 95
Mueller Durometer (Type B/C): 73-76
Onyx Laminated:
Hardness: Medium (3+)
Durometer (Type A): 95
Durometer (Type B/C): 73-76
Nitro Laminated Cue Tip- Darren Appleton Edition:
Hardness: Medium (3+)
Durometer (Type A): 95
Durometer (Type B/C): 73-76
Eagle Eye Laminated Cue Tip- Jayson Shaw Edition:
Hardness: Medium (3+)
Durometer (Type A): 95
Durometer (Type B/C): 73-76
Sniper Laminated:
Hardness: Soft-Medium (3)
Durometer (Type A): 94
Durometer (Type B/C): 72-75
Tiger Laminated:
Hardness: Soft (2)
Durometer (Type A): 93
Durometer (Type B/C): 65-69
That’s very disappointing… I have a decent amount of cues and nothing helps. DoIts the indian not the arrow……![]()
Nice wand!!For me the shaft and tip is everything.
I like a long taper 12.25 diameter and a hard pressed triangle tip. The feel of the shaft moving through the fingers of your bridge must be familiar, comfortable. Currently playing with a custom Stephen Janes cue from Joss and using his kielwood shaft.
The butt of the cue is just eye candy for me. 19 ounces. Old school box cue, in what I call fall colors as in the season, yellow, orange and red inlays, birdseye maple, lizard wrap.
Sorry Gar, but I'm gonna have to be one of those "don't confuse me with facts, my minds made up" kinda people.Yep, its the shaft. Its the material, the taper, the ferrule, and tip that makes up what you feel in a cue. Not the joint.
If I got all these old wives tales outta my head, I'd prolly play better.I'm sorry folks but the joint has little to zero effect on how a cue hits/plays. This subject has been thrashed to death on here. There ARE factors that contribute to a cue's hit/feel but the joint ain't it.
Good thoughts pop.Being fitted for a pool cue would be difficult to me. It would be like going to the optometrist when he says number 1 or number 2, and you don’t really see a difference. After years of playing and dozens of cues, I had a general idea, but until I found THE CUE, I was never positive. The difference was slight but made a big impression. After narrowing it down to a specific type, it was just fine tuning I guess. Basically I favored Josswest, Pechauer, Schon, type cues, 19 - 19:5 oz. When I got my second Runde Schon, the balance was a little more forward, and it felt lighter than its 19 oz. The only thing I noticed was my speed control playing position after the shot got more precise. In reality, it could be all in my head, but that doesn’t matter,, because it works. Had I tried dozens of cues all at once and tried to select the perfect one, as I was learning, I would have been confused and clueless. Just my old man thoughts.
I'm a total head case then. Been using hard tips for as long as I've been playing.Except a hard tip will put more energy into the cue ball with less effort, kinda like why break cues have hard tips.
Whenever I scratch, it's those damn Gremlins fault.For sure.
Paralysis through analysis?
Possibly.
There is no substitute for pocketing the ball. You'll still be at the table after pocketing the ball. It's in the rule book, unless you scratch and a scratch is always your own fault.
When you're at the table your opponent can't do a damned thing.
When your at the table you have options. Your opponent has no options. Play a safety, go for the shot.
You're decision.
The Everest part throw you??A proper cue fitted to me would make a huge difference I guess. I don't even know what my cue weigh's and I haven't a clue where the balance point is. I do know that I like the way it feels and I like the feedback, but that holds true with many of my cues that have various joints, pins, and joint materials. The one thing in common is that I prefer a well broken in (I break with all of my playing cues) Tiger Everest tips that I end up putting on all of my cues, but they are a bit soft when new, I usually have my cue guy sand a couple of layers off when installing them. They are ridiculously tall when new.