In fact, I'd say it's the only thing for typical shafts.
I don't think there are objective differences in how "well" they play, only in how well you play with them.
pj
chgo
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When it comes to choosing a shaft, Is deflection the only factor?
- Thread starter fish2
- Start date
I don't think there are objective differences in how "well" they play, only in how well you play with them.
pj
chgo
You are spot on about shaft diameter and once you starting going smaller than 12.5mm, the weight of the shaft gets
lower unless you artificially added weight. That’s easily understandable since there would be less mass. I had 3 noteworthy cue makers advise me the KW shafts I was looking to have built couldn’t be made without adding an insert.
I scoffed at that notion and just kept searching for cue makers. I mean it is just common sense that all you need is a heavier blank which means being selective with your wood inventory. The fact some cue makers do, whereas a lot of cue makers apparently don’t, have a diverse wood inventory is likely a contributing factor, if not the underlying reason, why I was misinformed by many cue makers I spoke with. Well, I have the shafts in my case & shaft weight does matter. One of my flat faced KW shafts is 12.55mm, 4.1 ozs and is just tip, small ferrule, phenolic black 1/2” collar & KW wood.
lower unless you artificially added weight. That’s easily understandable since there would be less mass. I had 3 noteworthy cue makers advise me the KW shafts I was looking to have built couldn’t be made without adding an insert.
I scoffed at that notion and just kept searching for cue makers. I mean it is just common sense that all you need is a heavier blank which means being selective with your wood inventory. The fact some cue makers do, whereas a lot of cue makers apparently don’t, have a diverse wood inventory is likely a contributing factor, if not the underlying reason, why I was misinformed by many cue makers I spoke with. Well, I have the shafts in my case & shaft weight does matter. One of my flat faced KW shafts is 12.55mm, 4.1 ozs and is just tip, small ferrule, phenolic black 1/2” collar & KW wood.
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Agreed.
I bought a used Shelby with two shafts. One was 4 ounces the other like 3.2, both with 12.25 tips. Called Shelby, he searched his inventory and made me a nice 4 ounce shaft. For me, too light a front end feels like the shaft is trying to float away from my bridge hand.
Lou Figueroa
I have a Treadway sitting here in the case with these specs.
Butt - 15.15
Shaft - 3.55
Shaft - 3.73
First time I used the cue was with the 3.55 oz shaft & I ran out the rack.
To borrow a message from Dr Dave,
"It's not the chalk, it's not the cue."
"It's You"!!
Butt - 15.15
Shaft - 3.55
Shaft - 3.73
First time I used the cue was with the 3.55 oz shaft & I ran out the rack.
To borrow a message from Dr Dave,
"It's not the chalk, it's not the cue."
"It's You"!!
Weight, diameter, taper, materials, aesthetics...
There are lots of variables that may or may not be important to someone...
There are lots of variables that may or may not be important to someone...
Shaft diameter and taper mean a lot to me.
I use a closed bridge and I like to feel the shaft "snug" in my grip.
I don't have large hands, but I prefer a larger diameter shaft than what most people prefer.
Even with fairly large hands and an open bridge, I like my 10mm stiff conical shaft. I can see very clearly exactly how much my stroke sucks.
pj
chgo
Wu Xia
Well-known member
yes it is all mental in what you like. so you tend to go in that direction on your chooses.
we all do it. but my thoughts say if you pick up a stick remotely similar to what you like then after a short time you will shoot your speed with it. and probably now say ive found my favorite stick.
we all do it. but my thoughts say if you pick up a stick remotely similar to what you like then after a short time you will shoot your speed with it. and probably now say ive found my favorite stick.
There is no such thing as a no deflection shaft because of the laws of physics, low deflection means there is some deflection and like every shaft ever made you will have to account for some deflection when the cueball is struck off center, I like that I have to account for less with my Becue shaft, but the thing I enjoy the most is it's super long taper and feedback I get with a CF shaft, some people would hate that but they don't have to play with my shaft I do, I agree with Lou, find what is comfortable for you, no insert pro player's name here is going to make you play like that player, I was able to take Becue's weight system, add 1 washer and nut and change the balance point of my cue to a more forward weighted cue, it's amazing moving a 1/4oz of weight about an inch and a half will affect your cue, the only person's opinion that matters when deciding on a new cue is your's, if you are not sure about what feels good to you see if friends or teammates will let you try their's, when you find one you like get the specs and start there.
so it deflects less. how much less. if you dont know you still dont know where to aim. only would a no deflection cue would allow that.
so with either shaft you have to know where to hit in your adjustment.
unless of course you just use the correct bridge length and angle. and then most times there is none to worry about.
Paul Bell
Well-known member
The end-all system for determining the best balance point would be McDermott’s H-series butt that allows weights to be placed anywhere along butt length. In a recent YouTube, Average Joes Pool varied the balance point two inches from 17-15/16 to 19-9/16 inches by placing weights on either end of the McDermott butt.
That's a $2 mechanism you can cobble from the hardware store. Seriously, these gadgets if anything, provide adjustments the "player" may not be specced for.
For me, it's deflection, tip hardness, tip diameter, taper.
I owned a McDermott before buying a Becue, I have nothing against McDermott but that cue does not play like my Becue full carbon fiber cue, it works for me so I see no reason to change to another cue.