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I like my Rigids. I've been replacing my Porter Cables with them as the Porter's meet their eventual end. Alan

I think it is already copyrighted.

Taking out 3/4 oz of bocote would take a 5/8 bored hole approximately 5 1/4 inches deep, or a 1/2 inch hole 8 1/4 inches deep. Alan

Maybe not, but I always make a start and exit hole in my stock to be cored.

I'd say it was mahogany.

I would say yes.

I use sterling silver in my cues. Nickel silver has been used by many cuemakers in rings, but it actually has no silver content. Alan

It shouldn't be a big deal to reuse your old ferrule. Alan

Sorry, but I serious doubt a shaft will play differently when one hundredth of an inch of wood is removed from a 13mm shaft. Especially if the shaft already has a pro taper. It may feel better to the player taking into account hand size and such, but that's about it. Alan

First, where is the balance point on the cue butt with the shaft now? Second, the front of a cue butt is a stress point and you will be weakening that part by creating a cavity. Third cavities can resonate, so again probably not a desirable thing. Just my morning thoughts before coffee. Alan

I'm assuming you entered 1.125 as your cutter diameter. The Center of your tool needs to be zeroed on the point of your dead center. If you are touching off the cutter to the point of you're dead center, that is where your error lies.

That's why I said most taps. I don't know of a bottoming tap for 3/8X10 or radial, but I suppose one could be custom ground. I prefer the piloted version of those myself. In any case, Happy New Year!

Most taps require around 1/2 inch extra bore length in order to make full threads. The void you have is typical in shafts with a wood to wood joint.

3/8-8 is not the thread pitch of the US radial pin. Close, but not exact.

I'll take the cueman shaper if still available.

Shipping information sent via PM.

I will take them please.

It's now marked as sold. I was not the buyer though.

email sent

Hard pass.