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Not all... It just depends on the cloth being used, and how it is stretched. Though, the added cuffs make it a lot easier to get a clean look.

I was working... But, your title reminded me of one of my favorite songs:

Just to clarify: this is a customer's set up. Though, I do agree.. Very nice products.

This was a trial effort, for a residential customer. I used high-quality 3M vinyl. This is 'Brushed Titanium". I'm not so sure that I would try it for a commercial setting, as they take so much more abuse. However, I really liked the look, and wanted to give it a try. Otherwise, I would suggest...

It's just the angle of the photo. This table doesn't have the plastic skirts, which would shield the view. The pedestals do protrude from the frame, though it is not typically observed, unless you are down low.

Hard to beat the looks and play of a properly restored and set up Gold Crown 1.

One of these? I have no experience with this model. Though, just from looking at it, I would bet that it has deficiencies in the frame design. I would guess that this is nowhere near the quality of a Gold Crown.

Especially when you consider the difficulty of the table, as evidenced here:

This shot here was pretty impressive.

I guess I had it wrong.. The Imperial tables that I have worked on most recently had the Rasson name plastered everywhere. I suppose that doesn't mean much, as Imperial is simply a distributor.. Something that I hadn't previously realized. Thank you for the correction.

Brunswick started using flanged tapping inserts on the Gold Crown III, back in the 70's. They are used for holding the skirts and pocket castings in place (They are the super cheap style, and are prone to failure). For the rail bolts, they used the captured nut plate. I don't know what...

I believe the plate design started in the 1940's. However, they changed over to inserts in the late 70's.

I think what you are referencing is the formica. The height of the formica is about 1/16" higher than the top of the sub-rail.

I put wooden dowels in the holes, and tighten the wood screws. If you are planning to use the Stafast inserts, I might recommend eliminating the plates entirely, and using a single 3/8" insert.

Bondo is probably the best, if the slate is actually worn down. Often times, the issues are in the cloth itself, not the slate.

Before you spend a ton of money on alternate solutions: Make sure that the height of your light (to the bottom of the shades) is 38-42" from the surface of the slate. Higher is better, but you don't want to go so high that the light is blinding, as you walk around the table. Use high wattage...

They aren't too bad. Lots of them in local colleges around here. Easy to work on. Parts are typically very easy to find. Imperial makes Rasson tables, which many hold in high regard.

I used the Harbor Freight sander for many years. I switched to the Makita, but it took some getting used to. If you trim the facings close to the rubber, 120 grit works well. Otherwise, 80 grit is better, as it's quicker. Just have to be careful. 240 grit will be the easiest to use, and will...

I use purpose-built fixtures to hold the rail upright, with the face of the sub-rail facing straight up. When I attach the cushion to the rail, I start at one end, using my fingers as a guide along the top of the sub-rail. Using the other hand, I hold a slight bit of tension on the cushion...

The close-up views in the pockets make it look like the cloth is installed upside-down. But, it's always hard to tell from photos, as the camera tends to focus on the weave. In regards to the cuts in the pockets, this is pretty standard. It's actually what is shown in most cloth installation...