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MBS is my preference. They are affordable, play well, and install easily. DO NOT use Mercury cushions. In my opinion, they are inferior.

Side by side, with 4' between the two tables would be fine, so long as you can still achieve 5' around the perimeter. That said, 18'x23' would be ideal. 17.5'x22' would be an absolute minimum. Just keep in mind, It would be fairly tight, if you were trying to have people playing on both tables...

I cut my facings with a Dexter industrial rubber knife. I keep it very sharp, and use a slight bit of soapy water as a lubricant. As Sheldon said, I also finish-sand the facings flush with the cushions. I used to use a Harbor Freight 1/2" "band file". I later upgraded to a Makita 1" belt...

I agree. Like a Gabriel.

I don't recall needing a spanner wrench. I used beeswax for the seams. Living in the Northeast Region of the U.S., temperature isn't much of a concern. I typically reserve Bondo for slates which require extensive repair, or for heated carom tables.

I guess that's one man's opinion... I've worked on a ton of them, and I'm not a fan at all. I think that their rail designs were garbage. The ball returns had a rubber coating on the wires. That might have been wonderful back in the 60's-70's, but nowadays, it's all dry-rotted and crumbling...

I recently set up a Kim Steele table from the early 90's. It had been in storage for about 8 years, which always raises concerns for deformation of the slates. However, despite me having never previously seen a SAM table, the frame assembled easily, and the slates leveled out better than any...

I really prefer to have the leveling feet, versus shimming between the frame and pedestal. That can be a complete headache. I made some stainless steel threaded collars, a while back. It's not really worth it, for one table. That is, unless you have the appropriate ability and resources. The...

I don't agree with the reasoning being due to "waste". Cuts from the end stretch differently. Those rails will look different from the ones with side cuts.

They are a hard plastic. They'll work, but I don't like them. Try these: https://8th-zone.com/product/hp915-drop-pocket-set-for-brunswick-gold-crown-ii-iii-iv-v-metro/ They are rubber. No ball marking, that I've ever seen. Though, they are more than double the price.

There is actually a HUGE difference in the install.... Brunstone requires considerably more shims, to get it flat. The shim spacing can be much further apart with slate, than it can Brunstone.

I repaired a crack like that, several years ago. As Sheldon said, tape the bottom side and the cracked end, to keep the CA from leaking out. Get it as flat as you can, and glue it up. Knock the high spots of CA down with a razor scraper. Fill the voids with Bondo, and maybe even skim coat near...

I'm not sure why some have chosen to respond negatively toward you, as there was nothing negative in your post. You should have received an email, with the Subject: "Butterfly Effect Challenge - IT'S TIME FOR SPECS!" I would suggest that you check your email, to see if you received it. It is...

The pocket cut-outs are common with tables from the late 1800's to the early 1900's. I believe that it may have been done that way to allow for the leather pocket tabs to be nailed in to the wood. Typically, I like to fill the gaps and even repair the damaged wood, using Bondo.

Tight pockets slow the game down. Speed of play is exactly why Texas Express 9 Ball replaced straight pool, for "Professional" play. In my opinion (since everyone seems to have one on the topic), it is far more exciting for "fans" to watch run-outs, than it is to watch misses and safes. That...

I like the celebration. This is typically only seen in an arena type setting, with a crowd around the table. The table becomes a stage, or platform, for the player to demonstrate that he/she is above all of the rest. This puts the victor in perfect view for all fans and onlookers. There is no...

If I had to guess, that bolt probably isn't fully threaded. The bolt size is 1/2"-13 UNC

It depends.... If I glue the seams, then wait a while before continuing (such as, to cover rails on a separate workbench), I don't use accelerator. However, most times, I am anxious to proceed. So, I do use accelerator most of the time.

Drywall joint tape is what I use. I generally glue at 4-5 locations across each seam. You'll want to use a thin CA glue. Just make sure that your paper fits snug between the slates. Use more than one thickness, if necessary. I like using Starbond Super Fast CA , though I used the cheap "Super...

Might be impossible to find. Since the table doesn't really have much value, I'd recommend that you just get a set of the standard miters from somewhere like Muellers, then just cut the side aprons to fit properly.