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The Real RC? I'm trying RC's suggestion about using attachments for images here. So, as a test, here's who I see in my mind's eye when I read one of his posts:

"Tipping" is smoothing out the rolled-on paint with the tip of a good paintbrush. Check the video I posted earlier in this thread.

No need to apologize.

Bump - anyone? Thanks, jv

Looks like about $21 to $28 per quart. About double the Sherwin Williams stuff.

Greetings RC, I didn't mean to suggest you might be interested in acquiring them, I simply assumed, being such a billiard ball expert, that you would know something about them. Cheers, jv

Ivory or Not? Rubik's Cue, K2Kraze, have a look at this: https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=507174

And, this thread is pool related? Kinda getting tired of all the Glen threads.

Could you post a picture or drawing of the iron you need? Can you receive a gift form someone in the US?

Thanks very much, kind sir, I will give it a go! Cheers, jv

O.K., Bob, but what is the alternative? It would be best if AZB would host the pics, but I am not aware that they do. If I'm missing something, please let me know. Is there a free, forever pic hosting site? I currently use dropbox to host pics I post, and I pay an annual subscription to...

Best wishes to you with your restoration! Maybe you should start a new thread for it. I will subscribe. I have what's probably an early Gold Crown I, and it has what I am pretty certain is slate. The slate looks blue-ish, and has large grinding marks on the bottom that look like big...

Yea, mine isn't, it has the pilot holes for the screws, but no screw holes in the rail, and no aluminum things to secure it. It's just held in with the two wood screws going horizontally into the base frame. How does one determine the date of manufacture? Is it stamped somewhere?

Yes, that is one of the steps in the Brunswick installation book. I don't know if it was ever done on mine. I have found other things that weren't done. like screwing the ball storage box into the foot rail. So, who knows?

Thank you for that. I am thinking I would flatten if first, i.e., take out any high spots, using a straight edge and plane, after it's "rough leveled" (i.e. using a long carpenter's level), and then get it as level as possible with the machinist's level once that's done.

Check out this roll and tip job. I'd say it's a bit smoother and glossier than your spray job! :) Here's a great video on how to do it, by Alec Brainerd of Artisan Boatworks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k1DbGFsLgo Granted, it could have a lot to do with the quality of the material...

"Easy" depends on the finish you are trying to achieve. As I said, I've seen 36, 40, 45' sailboats painted with $250+ per gallon polyester paints using roll and tip that came out with a mirror finish, virtually indistinguishable from a spray job, until you look real close. My GCI aprons are a...

I hear you. Actually, in my opinion, painting these isn't so hard, and you don't need a spray gun. You're not trying to achieve an automotive-type finish, it's more like painting your walls at home. Get an eggshell or semi-gloss, and "roll and tip" - roll it on and smooth and finish it up with...

Wow! Fabulous, nice f you to offer this to the OP.

Whne one is building a Gold Crown I, how is the base frame leveled, and how level should it be? I'm planning on tearing down and rebuilding my Gold Crown I since it was assembled so poorly by the movers, and supposed mechanics. Once I get down to the base frame, how long a straight edge will...