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Let us know what you think on the speed differences.

Very solid run run out. Thought I would share.

Sorry should have formulated my statement differently. Mezz has some very good Q/C you will be pleased I think. My 30 inch sigma is my main player.

Each shaft can have it's own taper. Hybrid, conical, pro taper etc. The only two that have a long pro taper that I am aware of is the sigma and the ignite.

Mezz is excellent but their tapers can be weird. So just make sure you are good with the taper of whatever shaft you purchase. I was going to get an ex-pro but after talking to the dealer I ordered a sigma due to the pro taper it had.

Hands down worth the coin. GLWS

I have 4.5 pro cut corners and I think the sides are 5 inches on my diamond. I would be ok going down to 4.25 corners 4.75 sides but that would be limit. Shelf depth and angles really make a difference also. I really don't think playing on super tight pockets makes you play any better in the...

All the diamonds at my league place have championship cloth. It's almost like playing on a pin ball machine. Very slick stuff. I don't mind it actually but I have to adjust every time I play vs the 860hr I have at home. It plays much slower.

A lot of people are unaware of this I think. My CF revo is less slick than my wood shafts when it's really humid. I do have to upkeep the wood to keep it super slick but it's very minimal effort. +1 for wood.

I would add mezz to your short list.

Same, the place I play league at is hardcore with the color of chalk. It has to be blue, no exceptions. So I use pyro at league and have tried it a few times at home vs V10. I get a bunch of flakes with pyro on my home table. Not a fan. It does apply easy and is still pretty clean on the cue...

5/16x18 is your joint/pin type. Tons of options in this category if you want to keep your butt and just upgrade your shaft. 12.75 to 12.5 mm is what I like. It's all preference though. I would leave the skinny stuff (low 12's and 11's) to the high fargo players, it won't do you any favors. Mezz...

Glove which sounds like you don't like and I wax my shafts every two weeks after wiping them down with high content isopropyl alcohol. This definitely helps. My wood shafts are slicker than my revo. If you don't want to do either go with CF shaft.

You don't have chalk build up on your table using masters?

Hygiene is the main selling point. If you own your table especially with a ball return system it's well worth the price imo. I also have zero visible chalk staining on any of ferrules or wood shafts. So for me it's worth it. Won't make you play any better.

So is there a luster difference between the bronze set and the rhodiums?

That grey color looks better than the stock photo. Maybe it's time to send it on another set, lol.

I looked into this when I bought my bronze set. You can check out the specs on their website. What I like is the specs they have on the "lower level" sets are the same as the top end sets. Difference is color and markings. That's where the extra expense comes in.

I don't think you will any issues adjusting to be honest. If you know your exact preferred specs you like diameter, feel, length, taper etc from your previous production cue purchases you should end up really happy. Just consistently play only with that one cue and don't alternate in matches and...

Haven't played with either. Carbon does make sense with a break cue due to the efficiency of energy transfer. I break with a Viking crush I picked up used for cheap. Some thick ass maple for sure, lol. If you are going to splurge and can't try before you buy I would purchase from a website like...