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The tips are all 12mm (over 100 tips) ...the black diamond tips are 14mm( 8 tips) The bumpers are house cue style. The tappers are metal.....no markings. Any questions let me know. Just cleaning out old boxes and making room on shelves. It all fits in a small flat rate....$30 shipped for all...

This is really all you need to know right here. Quit trying to "drill" a finished size hole.

Should be cored for cue use. You'll be hard pressed to find any kiln dried. All I've used has been a minimum 10 years on the ground. If it's not dry it may check during the drying process. GL with your search

That would be a negative. Shorter distance between centers will have a different degree of angle.

rip Alex Could be coco, brw

Who made the cue? I'd go there first. If it's just a production type cue it could be any type of a brown wood but very unlikely anything expensive. It's all just a guess from looking at a picture.

THIS.......^^^^^^^^^^^^ Very accurate assessment.

I hear ya talkin. However, I never believed ivory was a "stock it" up item. In the 20 plus yrs I've installed it on a hand full of my cues and usually at the request of the customer that I tried to talk out of it before caving. Most of it went on restorations that were an attempt to remain...

Let me know what woods you have and what you need for them.

The link...it's all about the hyperlink! ;)

https://a-z-animals.com/blog/discover-the-top-13-most-expensive-types-of-wood/ Buy as much of these woods as you can afford if you can find them. Guaranteed better than money in the bank. In 10-20 years you'll be lucky to find any of it. JMO ;)

Your last picture (if I'm seeing it correct) shows the center hole not in the center of the 4 channels. As mentioned, you need a sturdier and more precise way of holding the back end of the forearm. This the base of starting the point cutting operation. Both ends of the forearm need a precision...

It only gets worse. 28 yrs later I'm still buying and adding to the inventory of "stuff" that I need or may need in the future! 🤪

You mention "doing your final taper is when things get changed"? Are speaking of the point alignment or something else? If your points are even when you are done inlaying them into the forearm they should stay that way if your attachment to the handle has no run out. The other thing would be...

I'm sure you understand the reason for this? There's really only one way to correct it and that is to make sure all of the veneers you use are closer to the exact same thickness. I noticed this problem early on and decided to start cutting the veneers myself to have a better control over that...

I would build a shop separate from house and eliminate all and any of the concerns you have. Especially if you have family in the house with you. No matter how hard you try to keep dirt, dust and chemical vapors creeping from the basement into the living area it'll be a challenge. You can...

Butt, shafts, and caps are all finished with the same technique. As far as using epoxy for a finish it would be hard to tell you how long to let it spin not knowing what you're using and when it's going to start setting up. I use epoxy for the sealer and base coat before spraying. I scrape it...

You're all good........... In a short splice build, I've always referred to it as a handle if no wrap is used. Wrap used = under-wrap (handle)

Haha.......you're joking, right? I'm pretty confident you've been building cues for quite some time now, and you've never heard of the wood under the wrap referred to as an underwrap? I don't know maybe it's a Texas thing? ;)