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Keep in mind, Cron is the same user who argued that carbon fiber wasn’t strong enough for jumping or breaking.

A certain degree of insanity to work with such unstable woods.

You have mentally accepted that shot as a problem. You’ve now committed to focus more on the problem. It wouldn’t have been you or else you wouldn’t have made this thread.

It’s your stroke. I’ve done the whole double chalk because I’m making sure, and then still proceed to miscue. It’s all you, and will almost always be you.

Charlie Bryant was trying to push one hell of a sale on me last fall. Was quite tempting, but I just couldn’t get over that aspect.

Useless information now that you can buy a Revo in 5/16-14. Still worthwhile to know for the future in case any company is this dumb again.

For $250, that lathe will end up doing much more than in damage to the cues you are working on. Hope you have $10,000 for replacing damaged cues. Get one of the Taig based lathes from MidAmerica or a CueSmith lathe. Both are very excellent at shaft only work. You’ll need a big bore headstock if...

I’ve seen some pretty far fetched ideas, but this idea of yours is sewage tier idea. Why in the ****ing world would you want an ‘LD’ jump shaft? Your no longer in the correct thinking mind at all. Your all over the place in your accusations that carbon fiber doesn’t preform well. And what the...

Only Sometimes......

Sorry but you’re wrong. Wrong on just about everything. They do jump better because of how they are able to control the weight/distribution much better. I just don’t own one myself because my preference for size hasn’t been met. Hopefully Predator’s will be a 12.9mm.

A shaft can have damage to the joint face. So once the shaft is screwed onto a mandrel it’ll no longer spin straight. But held in a collet->live center setup, a shaft can be spun straight. It’s lost it’s trueness in joint face to shaft center line relation.

It’s the difference between Driving Miss Daisy, and a demolition derby. Sometimes you run out without feeling as if you did anything. Then there are those times you’re not in control of anything.

You have a slight left inward movement. Even 1mm is enough to cause a miscue. Combined with a deceleration of your stroke. That’s a guaranteed miscue right there. Try lowering your elbow a bit. A shorter practice stroke, and a shorter executed stroke. Focus on spinning the cue ball without...

Emulate what the cue ball is doing, not what they are doing. Ain’t no short cutting in learning how to apply english. Time and efficiency of practice.

Personally, I would have hit the 1 ball softer. More of a stop shot style. When trying to cross the line on the on 2, six more inches for you would have nearly prevented a run out. Your 2 to 3 ball positioning was either weak or too strong. Either way, going below the line like you did on the...

No Corona’s, new use for limes.

So odd that those two didn't return on my searches first couple pages. As long as whoever is buying that tube doesn't need it black, it looks like those will work. Would be nice to have a tube of black rather than the rods I have now.

I'm not seeing any LE phenolic tube for sale on USPlastic. Just the paper phenolic tube. I can find the rod available(special order) in LE. Got a link to your LE phenolic tube supplier? I keep finding companies websites that mention talk of a LE phenolic tube, but never do show one for sale. I...

Care to send me the link for what you’re using? I’ve found a couple options. One is a paper phenolic. The other doesn’t give that info, looks like linen to me. But everything I’ve found on cue parts websites is .625 ID.

Suddenly now, my statements about 7 balls on the break seems a lot more reasonable too. Got made fun of for making an absurd claim......but your pics show exactly what I was talking about.