Search results

They are for sure back in business. I placed an order and got it Fedex 2nd Day Air a couple days later. Glad to have the business back running to get these great value tips but sad to have lost Tom Hay...

1/4" shank, Freud Carbide 1" diameter straight cutter bit.

So I'm cutting off the side of a 1" two-blade straight bit. When you talk about tool height, are you wondering where on the side of the bit I am cutting? Does it make any difference??

I must admit my ignorance here, I'm not a cue maker or machinist. I don't know what Climb Cutting or Conventional means.

Yes, I've measured the turn rate, I have a DRO for the rpms Yes, I back of the spur collar every time. I seat both centers, and then engage the spur. I use Chris' spur driver I've used both dead and live centers in the tailstock. Same issue. I do use some beeswax in the hole I use 1.5x1.5...

I move my height up and down over the life of the bit to move the wear point and extend the life of the tool. Never notice much difference. I even tried cutting from left to right instead of the other way, again, no noticeable difference..

You can pinch your shaft to stop if from turning? So, that tells me you are not using any kind of spur driver but just dead centers on both ends?

I've been thinking about this since your comment. I'm betting you nailed it. The pressure I put on the larger diameter shaft caused no deflection but as I reduced the diameter, that same pressure likely caused some deflection, which I wrongly thought was vibration, and the more material...

Tailstock center or headstock center? Are you using his Spur Driver? I use his but the runout is always an issue to deal with since you have to leave it hanging out so far from the Headstock so that the router doesn't hit the headstock.

Hmm.. you might be on to something there! I keep mine pretty tight to eliminate the backlash in the spur driver. I'll keep that in mind as I turn the next ten tomorrow. THANKS!

I've never had this happen before, only since turning Toriffied blanks.

I'm at 150 rpm rate, the slowest i can go without stalling and I'm at the slowest feed rate I can get. I takes 8 minutes to go end to end. Router is wide open, per Chris's recommendation. I'm cutting from the side so height is of no consequence. I tried a smaller cut, .025, same wavy pattern...

I have a batch of Kielwood square blanks that I'm turning now. About 25% of them are failing on the lathe. The rest are fine. I am turning them from 1.5 x 1.5 x 31 squares. I took off the corners on my router table like I always do. Then the rough turns. 1" Freud 2-Blade straight bit...

Mine arrived Fedex 2nd day air. I'm ordering another 100 today...

I'm thrilled to confirm that Ultraskin appears to be back in business as well. I placed a fairly large order (for me anyway) and received it in about 5 days. Same tips, same price. Very happy that Tom's legend lives on through his kids!

If that happened to YOU, I’ll make sure to be cautious and slow when I do it ! Respect!

What would differ between drilling to remove weight after the fact and gun drilling required for a full length cored butt?

If you go for the deeper hole with smaller diameter, your impact on balance point will be minimized. Agreed with Sheldon, no way I'd do this other than a gun drill and a lathe.

My understanding is that it is oil-rubbed. I love it. I also have a Tonkin with the same.