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I know back in 2000's BCA banned the use of phenolic tip on playing shafts. But aren't balls themselves made by phenolic resin? If the collisions between balls won't do much damage, why should a phenolic tip damage the ball? So I'm guessing the phenolic tip is even harder than the materials...

I have the same question, why is it not suitable to use a phenolic tip in normal gameplay? For example my bakelite break tip holds chalk well, then there shouldn't be any problem with it, right? btw, I've read thru the tip hardness page.

time isn't an important factor in all practicality. The impact point and speed are what matters. If you want to get a long contact time, then you can only push the cue ball with very low cue speed (hit the cue ball at the speed that doesn't separate the tip and ball), but that produces almost no...

I think part of the reason is when cue ball hits the rail at shallow angle, it picks up more running spin by rubbing along the rail, which causes the angle to widen. If the cue ball hits the rail almost perpendicular, then not as much spin is picked up, and the two paths are relatively parallel.

didn't he say "poorly-applied system"?

Certainly practice is the king. Are you saying that "high tech" equipment won't help you improve?

Thanks Bob! that was good to know:)

As above, I'm wondering if it is legal in tournament to use a shaft that has been marked with black points or whatever to help train my speed control. Say I mark evenly spaced points so that if I smoothly accelerate the cue, I get desired cue ball speed at contact. Appreciate the feedback!