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Thanks for the recommendations. I went with Barry Emerson at Pro Billiard Service and I'm glad I did. The table plays better than ever and they even ended up being cheaper than what Fort Worth Billiards quoted. Highly recommended.

I'd only be interested in determining where the cb goes after contact. I know where my contact point on the ob is for all different angles and speeds and spins. So is there an easy method to determine that? Seems like a lot to memorize

I saw Mike Massey showing people how to do this. He said some rules prohibit it, but that it's legal in most cases. I forget how exactly, but I think it's a soft, steady shot near the miscue limit and the ball goes forward just a bit and then sort of rolls off the tip

Other than maybe being lower deflection, they offer no real advantage. Their main upside imo is not worrying about warping, dings, etc and being able to just wipe them down with rubbing alcohol to clean, as opposed to having to use some kind of abrasive to clean wood

Thanks for the tip. So far people have recommended Barry Emerson and Shane Johnson, so I'll give them a call. The local store quoted me $550 for the cloth and install. You think I'd be in the same range having one of them come out?

Just need Simonis cloth installed on an 8' Brunswick.

Any recommendations and a price range for the cloth and install? Thanks.

I'm doing the same and would also like to know. I'm worried about mushrooming as well because I never had that problem with layered tips other than kamui brown and moori

I'll probably try out a techno dud because of this thread. I see one for sale on seyberts. They're made by Outsville, right? Or is it a generic name? Either way, these don't mushroom very much, right? I've had the experience described by the OP. A kamui layered tip seems soft with a good hit...

do you have a good full set of balls? brunswicks or aramith? I'm in DFW

The problem with using a heavier cue is the acceleration would decrease, right?Whereas if the hand weight was added, the acceleration would remain roughly the same because no matter what, that weight will always be there in the stroke.

Thanks for answering. So say you cut a groove into the butt of the cue and crammed your hand into it to "pre-shift" your flesh. Or just for the sake of argument, you had a robot with a metal hand gripping the cue and his hand wouldn't shift at all, then would you have a significant increase in...

But the cueball and object ball are probably in contact for even less than that, and it's enough time for the OB to be affected in many different ways. Just saying it's less than the blink of an eye doesn't mean much. And I'm not just asking in terms of breaking. To take it to the extreme: if...

Sounds logical, but as you start the forward stroke on more forceful stroke, it seems like a lot of the flesh has already shifted. And is there any scientific proof of why the tip/ball contact time is not long enough for it to actually make a difference? I've heard the contact time explanation...

I can see this being true, but does it reduce it enough to offset the added mass?

I've hear everyone debate about the weight of the cue for breaking, with some saying a light cue can go faster, or a heavier cue has more force, etc. I know f=mv, so they're both right in a way. But anyway, my question is whether a grip where the cue is firmly in your hand generates more force...

Still looking for these if anyone has a set

Looking to buy Brunswick Centennial or Duramith balls new or like new. Post or PM me. Thanks

I think carbon looks better as long as the butt kinda matches

Taom Fusion Tips I'll take a fusion tip if you still have some