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Yep, pretty much what tends to happen.....I tried it on a mock up once, same result.

All that would be needed to be done is slightly enlarge the hole in the shaft, any cue repair guy could do it in about 2-3 minutes. Otherwise, I believe I have an aluminum standard pin I could part with

So, last night was handed this shaft and asked to replace the tip that fell off that had just been put on a couple of weeks ago by a local poolhall/billiard supply place. To me...this is the perfect example of why tips fall off.... tried to take the best pictures I could...you may need to zoom...

First thing, when you face the ferrule, and sand the tip, dry fit the tip and see if there is ANY rocking of the tip, if your lathe is slightly off, you can get a high point on the center of the ferrule and the tip will fly off after a few breaks no matter what glue, or scoring of the...

If you have a customer with a cracked collar, the ONLY way to fix it is to replace it. Filling with epoxy is not going to maintain structural integrity of the collar, and the joint itself. NEVER let the customer tell you how to fix it.....you are the person with the knowledge, not them....if...

Call Chris Hightower, best guy to help with a problem on a deluxe.

Anyone know what the rail rubber profile was for the Old UBI aluminum rails? Have been asked to recover an old one and during my look-over before giving a price, discovered that the balls are hopping off the rails with normal speed shots. Some of the rails are low, but even the ones that are...

why would anyone use CA to glue in a joint pin???? If you have NOT used diamondwood or shot/broke/jumped with a diamondwood cue....you won't understand.

OK, so it shows the cuff method in the video? Great to know. Looking at the pictures here in this thread, I got an idea how they were done, but had questions about it. I'll order the video. Thanks, Dave

Anyone have a link to video/instructions on how to do the french cuffs? I like the look and would like to incorporate it into my work. Thanks Dave

Well, if one removes the pin to change it....guess what..... there's a hole....LOL What Mike said works fine, but I will add, depending on the manufacturer, I have come across some capped uniloc inserts. Don't know if they were knockoffs or what, but check the depth before running a tap thru...

Please clairfy, Are you talking about changing the pin from a uniloc to a 5/16x14, or changing the shaft from a uniloc to a 5/16x14? If a pin change on the butt side my above post holds true, if you mean the shaft side, then Mike's post is true.

Simple answer is no, cannot just run a tap thru as an authentic uniloc QR has a locating barrel that is .312". Bore/drill then a plug, then drill and tap for the new pin. Dave

If you think you can get a 14-15" dowel thru a 12" handle/forearm without it binding up halfway thru....go ahead. In my experience, Titebond 2 will grab so quick you won't even get a 1/4 thru...titebond 3.....maybe about 3/4 thru before binding. Maybe using a press to do it, and watering down...

Who built it for you? Are they available to answer questions one would have if interested?

it is Isoplast

Solarez has many different types/formulations of finish now. One is very similar to a lacquer, but it isn't as hard of a topcoat as the polyester solarez. The polyester says that it can be sprayed, but it is thick. If one wanted to know more, call them and ask for Gary, the owner/developer and...

First, if it's newish....send it back to Viking as Mike Webb said. Otherwise, to replace a joint pin (on the assumption it's the issue) should be done by a competent repair guy. Removing the pin can damage the collar and finish if not done right. Plus, once you TRY to remove it, the pin is trash...

what was the old ferrule made of, and what is the new one? Much more important than the joint material when talking about the feel of the hit

Sounds good