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First, a picture would be in order. Second....if you think the "I" word, use a black light and see if it glows....black light on white verses the "I" word....you will see the difference

Thanks Tom, I already had cleared it with the customer before proceeding, Always the best way to go...let them decide.

It was foam filled until about 2 inches in from the ferrule end.

After doing quite a bit of research, I found that most of the resins used in production of CF tubes is able to withstand high temps by design. Most epoxies we use in cue building/repair seem to have a breakdown temp around 200-300 degrees F, but in CF, some can handle over 2000 degrees C. One of...

Don't want to reveal the maker, as I am hoping it's a 'one of' kinda thing. Unfortunately, this would have been a warranty issue which the maker would have fixed, had the customer been the original owner, but he wasn't. I will be reaching out to the maker with these pics so that they may be...

Okay, the reason for trying to remove the ferrule as a whole, to not reuse it, but #1 know how it was made so I can replicate it. #2 if I cut/drill/bore it out....how will I know what was the actual cause of the rattle noise? there will be pieces/debris left, with no real evidence. After a lot...

Hey wondering if anyone has been able to remove a ferrrule assembly from a carbon fiber shaft without damaging the ferrule? My theory would be to use heat such as boiling water or heat gun to break down the epoxy Bond but I don't want to damage the shaft either. The repair is the shaft sounds...

If they are new shafts that the customer is the original owner, I would suggest they contact either the place they bought it, or Cuetec directly, for warrentee work.

For me, it would be a Hard Pass....don't know the material so how could I give my usual 'if any problems for 6 months' come see me/call me etc, I'll make it right warrentee?

First, let it air dry for 24hrs before putting anything on it, if still doing it, try a quick wipe of CA over it, usually the ink doesn't smear, as there are no solvents in it like most finishes have. Your mileage may vary...

It deforms after awhile, hard to control, and most people I know that have tried it says it sucks for jumping....too soft.

McDermott for me.

Be careful which type of Shellac you use.....do not use one with wax if you are going to do a top coat of something else. I recommend Wiping a small amount of very clear epoxy, like Max16 on it, then wiping the excess off with a clean lint free cloth......It will give it the "wet" look for...

You are on the right track....

I have use acetone on a variety of CF shafts that had CA globs or smears left by the last guy and have not had an issue of it looking dull etc. If it does have a dull look...buff it out and should be good

I have used CA to repair small chips in many finishes, including UV ones with no issues

Still available......looking for a new home

Brand of cue? Also a picture of the pin with a ruler along side would help. I counted only 10 threads.....

PRICE DROP....$350........

PRICE DROP.........I am selling a Bob Simoneau Custom cue for a friend. Joint pin is the modified (flat minor) 3/8 x 10. It is 17.95 Oz and the tip is 12.95 mm. It is signed by Bob from 2017, Sadly, he is no longer with us. It has 8 points on the forearm into a birdseye forearm, 4 high - 4 low...