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You can't. You just have to buy a bunch and sort them out.

I'm trying to wrap my head around why someone would want to supply shaft wood to a cue maker. If they don't have a good supply of quality, well seasoned shafts then not sure I would want them doing the work.

Actually I was replying to Dale since it addresses his specific question.

Post #2 HERE has some insight.

Tony didn't just buy some equipment and start churning out intricate cues. There have been many transitions along the way and this cue is one of them. If I were into boars I would consider this a must have.

BLO is commonly used along with CA as a finish on small items. The oil actually acts as a accelerator which is good on small items like pens, bottle stoppers etc. If you want to use that method on a cue then you have to go with a thicker CA that has more kick time.

Only with liver and fava beans...... I'm a Pinot Noir snob myself. I think we might have derailed the thread.

Obviously you have never been to one at the Lakeridge Winery in Clermont.

Some of this sounds like a wine tasting. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ECNIw4X7tpk

I played with a SouthWest for many years. Also owned a Coker or two. Not even close to the same. YMMV

Threaded ferrules are probably the only place 5 minute epoxy is suitable to use on a cue. Since its bond is weak a little heat and the ferrule unscrews clean much like wood glue. I use Titebond on linen and ivory and 5 min on all others.

Only if the hamster is awake and running really fast.

I'm not saying that if you were to give Florida a enema Jacksonville is where you would stick the hose but it is pretty close.

Although I have a nice coring set up it is my least favorite thing to do. I rate it right ahead of getting kicked in the nuts by a donkey.

You been spying on me?

^^ I agree 100%. Shiny cues with no dents, dings or blue on the shaft make me sad.

I don't have any photos handy of the individual pieces but I use the double tenon method these days on cues that get a wrap. Tenon on the forearm, tenon on the handle and a piece of phenolic to join them. 3/8 X 16 aluminum or stainless screw depending on desired weight/balance. For wrapless...

Sorry if I came across as telling you your method was wrong. My intent was to just share what worked for me. When I have time to type it out I'll address the rest of your post.

My preference is to start with a thinner, slow set epoxy. Then I can pre-glue the parts and give it time to soak in. If it starts looking dry it gets another coat. Then I can thicken the mix to suit the application if needed and put the pieces together.

Those are inlays. True story. Twice.