Search results

Greenleaf's comment can be adapted for your play. Try playing, chalking, or moving about 10% faster than usual to help you play "in the zone," allowing your subconscious to assist with making shots.

Thank you. Applying downward bridge hand pressure and maintaining a similar stance in rail play as in regular play will enhance your delivery (which will help keep the tip on the cue ball better). I encourage you to try it.

I hear you, but my banking tip is different: consider adjusting stroke speed and shot softness before adding sidespin or top/bottom spin. Softer shots create wider angles and are easier to predict than shots with spin and force.

One key tip for taking rail shots is to apply FIRM downward pressure with your bridge hand on the rail. Remember, it's important to use your hand, not your arm or shoulder, to prevent strain or injury. Additionally, aim to maintain the same stance and overall feel as you would for a regular shot...

Thank you.

Late to the party, but . . . Many league players and amateurs would score more shots with a 5-inch bridge than with an 11-inch bridge due to various factors. In fact, during clinics, I often bring tape measures. Many players who believe they are using an 8- to 11-inch bridge (defined as...

Pro friends have been pushed out of much income thanks to Fargo.

Yes. Thank you.

In rifle shooting, focusing on the target would leave a blurred sight just below the target in peripheral vision. Shooting pool is different, we typically do not see a blurred ferrule in peripheral vision that seems to touch the object ball's (or the ghost ball's) target.

I dislike the shooting analogy for pool. Shooting rifles requires clear sights and blurred targets. In pool, you aim to see the target clearly, as well as peripheral targets like rails or caroms, so two eyes are used. Almost no pool player has perfectsmonicular or binocular vision (making...

You don't want a dead blow. A pro friend and I recently discussed moving with the shot, focusing particularly on spin shots.

Yes, it's true that the contact point can be harder to identify from a distance. However, as I mentioned, there are advantages to focusing on a physical object rather than an imaginary one. While the Ghost Ball aim technique works for some people, the OP seems to be having trouble with straight...

Ditch the ghost ball aim and start focusing on the contact point, which is a real object in space rather than an imaginary one that changes size based on distance. This will improve most of your shots, not just the straight ones.

I was reflecting on this again today. Most players don't need to position their chin directly over the cue. In fact, you can have your head as high as two feet above the cue and still play exceptionally well. I would love to see some videos from you as well. Thank you!

"Of course. It WILL be easy."

a) is correct b) and c) lead to misalignment of eyes and/or cue

I agree with Wobbly. Ewa Lawrence has interesting arm and elbow movement.

Jimmy Reid's system is excellent for multirail shots.

People can shoot very well with their head as high as two feet above the cue stick. You may need to adjust your stance, though, since typically your head moves laterally based on your trunk bend/height above the table. Feel free to post a video here for help.

TK and I weren't discussing ferrule aim or the other methods previously mentioned. From what I recall, professionals on other AZ threads have mentioned using systems occasionally--just as TK and I discussed.