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Connelly has used championship cushion in the past, might have been the Pro-ams that seemed to have a short life span.

3/62nds of an inch?

Either is fine. When I get slates by the container from Italy they are on edge, from Brazil...laid flat. Transported in a P/U truck or van I lay them flat. If your moving and using a box truck I would stand them up and strap to the wall. Storage...either is fine, but vertical takes less apace.

Stick with the scraper. Dremel will heat the glue and clog up your tooling.

full rolls...approx 70 yards

"anchor the bed" is pretty vague. -Are you referring to the frame to the legs, the long frame members to the short frame members, or the slate to the table frame?

I was hoping to see it live streamed

5/32" hex

There should be no wrinkles in the cloth at all. Its virtually impossible to recover a side rail and have no folds on the side pocket especially with Simomis fabric without severely distorting the nose of the cushion.

F200 spray contact adhesive

You would probably need to contact the companies machining the slates in Italy, Brazil, and China, (or whatever country) to get that answer.

As per BCA specifications: Playing Bed: The playing surface must be capable, either by its own strength or a combination of its strength and that of the table baseframe, of maintaining an overall flatness within a tolerance of .020" lengthwise and .010" across the width. Further, this surface...

...any of you find issue with installing the inside liner of the pocket BETWEEN the slate and rail? Some of that leather can be 1/8"thick...putting unneeded stress on the rail, slate, and seam once all the rail bolts are torqued down. That's a big no-no in my book.

I'm pretty sure I do. I'll check tomorrow when I'm at my shop...keep you posted.

1st set of rails I ever re-laminated came off that easy, hasn't happened since. :(

New HPL is roughly .032" thick, .050" for horizontal grade. The original laminate on GC rails is much thicker than that, so fully stripped off and installing new laminate you will end up with a rail that is actually thinner by a few thousandths. ...you mentioned using real wood laminate, do you...

New black sparkle finish Formica on rails, charcoal hammer finish trim, gloss black body/legs

With a power plane, keep the cuts shallow and gently follow the curve as you plane the length of the rail if you need to take the laminate completely off. Otherwise, my method of choice is belt sanding just enough to provide a good mechanical bond for the contact cement.

Power planing is the best way to do it without wrecking the wood. I have done a fair amount of re-laminating of GC rails. I typically belt sand with a 50 grit belt to take off the wood grain print base color take it down to just where it hits the phenolic substrate. I find leaving the base of...

2 3/8", provided the guts have not been modified.