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Do you apply anything prior to the epoxy base coat? How much time before the base coat if anything is applied? I believe I have my white bubble issue sorted out but I also use different products.

Not sure why I'm killing you, I'm simply trying to understand what he's referring to specifically. Everyone has their own interpretation of feeling versus value, and it's information like this that can influence my own construction. I agree with your statements 99% of the time 😉.

By "solid joint", are you referring to the fact that the shaft threads on tightly?

Seems like you should get the shaft first, review all the issues, then work with a cue repair person to try and have them resolved.

Beautiful cues!

I've found that Rhinos 5/16-14 is always to tight, regardless of size ordered. If no repair person is available, then go to your local machine shop and ask them to take the pilot off in a lathe, just be cautious not to clamp down to tightly on the shaft. Then retap the threads.

Pretty much any repair person should be able to machine the pilot off so that its flat faced. The longer pin will need to be measured for any given shaft, but from what I've seen, most are tapped quite deep.

Why don't you make your website searchable by country/region with the ability to filter by top 100, 250, etc. Or even search by range of fargo. That would be useful.

Whoa, what year was this? Do you have any other photos from Golden Cue?

I hope everything works out well for him, he's been one of the most helpful and knowledge persons on here!

Can you re-take the photo with a camera instead of a potato? Or is that how the online listing looks when you zoom in and hope someone here can identify a cue that you can make a quick buck from? 😉

Multiple piece butts should be referred to as a plain jane, not merry widow. At least that my understanding. I don't really care about semantics too much, but this one caught my interest because I always thought a merry widow was any plain butt, and then I found that comment!

I dont have a copy so i cannot confirm the details, but apparently the billiards encyclopedia mentions this on page 197 (Post number 10 talks about it in the link). I've also seen multiple other persons mention this specific reference through the years...

....so what you're saying is that, its the indian and not the arrow? You are the indian and you can play with any arrow, so the cliche does apply perfectly. You just choose to use more expensive arrows? I assume your're just trolling at this point!

Robotic testing is useful because the results are more repeatable and consistent than with a human, and power shots are really the biggest difference between shafts. I can take an 11.8mm revo, cynergy, Z, or 12.2mm ignite and play shots with maximum spin, and make them all with zero...

Glad to see you back here cowboy! I hope you're doing well. Wood definitely feels much better than carbon, but carbon doesn't dent. So it's got at least one advantage! I hated ironing out dings in my wood shafts, such a pain.

Yes, I saw that, but no where did it indicate shaft diameter. Also the mezz shaft was the 3 cushion version, not the standard mezz ignite. I assume all of these "minor details" were left out intentionally to make the SMO appear to be the best.

It would be great to see an actual comparison using a robot and all the shafts. Thats the only way to know for sure.

What tip diameters are being used here? Also, what does it look like when they compare an 11.8 revo, cynergy, etc. I would imagine that the smaller diameter shafts will have lower deflection still, better than this SMO.

I just ordered some last week without issue, but I just tried again and experienced the same problem you described. I would wait a while and try again. Or reach out to them, she might not be aware of the problem.