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I should have posted back. I DID redo the wrap, and I fixed the weight as well. For the wrap, I added some veneers. That didn't come out too well, and it was a bit of a mess. To fix it, I built up layers of CA finish to fill in all the crud, and then recut the channel. That came out better...

I used to do that, and for the same reason. I didn't do it on purpose. I just naturally lined up on every shot low, and then adjusted at some point to where I really want to hit it. I think Ortmann does something similar as well, and probably lots of other guys too.

Pretty much what I'd always assumed too. If you're going to use a a big wood thread, you need a big piece of wood to thread it into.

I don't actually put my stick on the table, but I do get behind the object ball on every shot, pick out my contact point and keep my eyes fixed on it until I'm lined up behind the cue ball. For thinner cuts (or other shots that give me trouble), I try and pick out the point on the cue ball that...

It usually takes me an hour or two to get dialed in. By the end of the night, I'm feeling very confident and precise, but I usually start off very shaky. Specifically, my stroke just doesn't feel solid and straight. Any suggestions for a warm up to get loose quickly? I feel like it's just a...

I have a lathe now, but I used to just do them by hand. Razor blade to flatten, and very very sharp violin knives to trim the sides. I briefly started having them done for me, and very quickly went back to doing them myself. I still do them by hand on occasion, just for fun, but the lathe really...

Dan Barouty is kind of a hoot.

You can use 14.1 rules on a 7' table, but it's hardly 14.1. That's not to say it can't be fun, but it basically just turns into a crowded shooting gallery that doesn't really resemble 14.1 in terms of strategy and patterns.

I'm not a great player...my high run is 35, and I'll generally get somewhere around 15 any given match. So not really good my any means, but not really a bar banger either. But I'll say that two things that have really improved my game strategy wise are: 1) Rempe's brainwash drill. I can...

FWIW, you can't lay a cue "flat" on a table unless it has a dead straight taper from tip to butt. More often, the butt is pretty straight but the shaft is not, and if you look closely you'll find there's actually a gap between the middle of the shaft and the table. Anyhow, just an FYI. I don't...

FWIW, when I put new tips on, I put a layer of carnuba wax on the ferrule before cutting off the old tip and facing off (obviously don't do it after or you risk getting wax on the glue surface). It seems to help a little removing the superglue squeeze out and tip shavings. As always, YMMV, but...

Think of it this way. If ANY ball interferes with the rack, you always put it on the head spot if it's the object ball, or it's ball in hand with the cue ball. If the ball that's supposed to go to the head spot can't because it's blocked, it goes to the center spot instead. The rest of the...

We use suppliers that get us appropriately baked wood for building. I'll tell you that it's not a gimmick and it really does stabilize the wood a little bit.

On the occasions I've sliced myself with a nice, sharp chisel, I'm always sure to wipe off the knife and put a little oil on it before doing anything else. Blood rusts steal almost instantly...learned that lesson the hard way.

Silicone gets everywhere, and once it's in your shop you'll NEVER get rid of it. You'll be battling random fish eye in your finish for the rest of your life.

FWIW, if you really want to you can drill a bunch of centers in a block of wood and make a mold....and then make rubber plugs with a tiny nail through the center. You wouldn't use the wood as the actual mold...there's a couple of steps to get there, but there are tons of tutorials online for...

I do a lot of hand tool work. I've never hurt myself with a powertool, but have had stitches multiple times from hand tool slips. For a while, I knew all the staff at my local ER. I always took a little pride when they commented on how clean the cut was, like a scalpel. What bit ya', anyhow?

For my second layout, going 4-2-12, I was thinking roll the 4 in and shoot the 2 in the side. Never occurred to me to try and shoot the 2 in the bottom left corner. I guess my way you risk getting a bad angle on the 2, and then crashing into the 6, but the safety valve is that you would then...

Or if you prefer back of the rack: 4-2-12-6-9-13, 1's the break It would probably depend on exactly what angle I had on the 4. Tough to tell from the picture. Maybe the cueball wants to drift too far to get a good angle on the 1.

4 left corner 1,13 right corner 2 side 9 12 Not sure it's a textbook run, but I think the angles all seem pretty natural except for the little draw off the 12 to get to the 6....but that's pretty tough to screw up too, I think.