Search results

I agree with all if your post. IMO, if a cue maker refuses to change the taper of the cue....well....it's not 100% custom to you. Some of the biggest custom cue makers on the planet will not change the taper on the shafts and especially on the butts. Instead the customer is FORCED to either...

It's common sense. A custom cue is any cue that is CUSTOMIZED to a particular set of specs. In general, any production cue can be considered a custom cue as long as it can: **be ordered with a specific wood in the forearm, handle and/or buttsleeve. **be ordered with specific pin. **be ordered...

Thanks for the info. I've never used the Zan until a custom cue maker (BROMINE cues) came to my house to play and I hit a few balls with his cue. I really liked the hit. It was a zan premium soft, but it was played in and only had two layers left on the sidewall. So, I'm hoping the premium...

Hey buddy, do you still use the Zan tips? What did you think about the Zan tips you have used? What tip are you using today and what shaft? Thanks...

I used aramith ball cleaner and Meguiars Cleaner wax for about a month each. I much prefer Meguiars Cleaner Wax. I use a single tray diamond ball machine. Having said that, I still cannot make a ball.

Yes, absolutely! If they take the brinks truck away..... the people that have the talent to run 800+ won't bother. It will all depend on whether or not the Brinks truck is refilled with $$$ to attract more attempts.

Did the WPA change their mind about templates and 14.1? I noticed they used one for the 714 ball run.

Dealing with a "dealer" is not always a positive experience. It just depends on the dealer and the problem at hand. My wife bought a cue from RJ Billiards in Birmingham, AL as an anniversary present. He charged her $1,350 for a cue that sold for ~$900 straight from predator. On top of that...

I have absolutely nothing against Chris or ANY dealer/distributor. Having said that, it is nothing but smart as a "buyer" to cut the "middleman" out of the equation. Pool cues like everything else has to have a price increase for everyone involved. If I make a cue and want to make 1k on it...

Thanks to everyone that gave help in a "respectful" manner. I've got all the info I need now. I tried to delete this thread so it would not irritate anyone due to information overload. I've never (that I can remember) ask anyone anything in the "ask the cue maker" section. Most of you guys...

Thanks for your input. I have a ton of experience with playing, but absolutely zero experience with the how's or why's a cue should be one way or another. Again, thanks.

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions. Have a very, very good day Sir. You have been most helpful.

Thanks for your time and have a good day sir.

First off, thank you very much for any advice. My cue guy says he will build it as long as I want it. Here are my questions: 1. Why do some makers not want to build a butt longer than 30"? . 2. If a cue is fully cored (with hardrock maple), will ebony and cocobolo perform differently as a...

I like wood to wood joints.

Also...... I'm thinking about having the threads for the weight bolt area be 10" deep. How will this change the hit/feel? I like to have the option to change the balance point. That's the thoughts behind having the weight bolt threads so deep. Thanks..

BTW, the 19.5 to 20.5 balance point was a typo. I'm hoping for 20 to 21 balance point.

I like radial pins. I also like a thinner butt area. I need the joint diameter to match my revo shafts. Since I like thin butts.. I'm hoping that will aid in getting the weight down.

Cue butt will be between 30.5" and 31" long. I'm hoping the butt will weigh between 14.5 and 15 oz. I'm wanting a forward balance between 19.5" and 20.5". It will NOT have a wrap. I'm thinking about one of the following choices: . 1. **Forearm = Ebony **handle = Highly figured curly maple...