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Guess so Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Has anyone here cut scallops in a cue? I'd love to see any pictures of setup. Did you build a jig and bandsaw the cuts, or did you use a router attachment and indexing headstock? If you are doing overlapping scallops, I'm assuming you need to cut, assemble, glue, turn, then cut, glue turn...

Slip ons are a no-no Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Trump did say he liked to play it down... Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Has anyone sleeved an existing steel joint cue with another material? Or would you instead just replace the joint altogether. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

You got me! Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

I absolutely don't believe you. If anything, I might grant that the shaft grain orientation may have some slight effect. But the points? Nope. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Wow, so many different tangents going on in this thread. To answer OPs question, here are my thoughts: Why full splice? This is a method of joining two pieces of different wood that is very strong. It provides a large surface area for glue to contact. You cannot glue end grain, hence...

I don't think it's a stonier. But yes, Terry did make piloted 3/8x10 joints. I don't think the tip is always an indicator of age. It's a consumable item Could be Prather?

I hate you. Just messing, great find!

Found this on Craigslist outside Portland. Looks like a tad/martin or at least a replica. And a possible McDermott d series. Emailed the guy and it was sold... Made me want to cry.

I only have 3 in my collection. But here goes: These cues are what remain from the many instruments I've bought and sold over the years. The main reason I kept them is playability. I don't keep anything that doesn't play how I like. These all have good balance or unique hit. Another reason...

I work for a company that sells additive manufacturing services. We also have a machine shop and many other offerings. I think the main issue you will have with printing lathe components is that they will not be as accurate as machined components and the surface finish will not be as good. If...

It was a pain in the ass to make. I made one from white Delrin and one from brown phenolic. They were easier to make. If I had to do it again, I'd have cut up an old cowboy boot heel, which is stacked leather. I had to glue the pieces together from an old belt that was not as easy as I thought...

Leather bumper, yes. I made this one. A buttcap should be more ridgid so it can be machined and installed with tighter tolerance. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

So I saw a viking on an auction site recently and I'm 90% sure the forearm was an old Titleist blank. Due to the age the rings and plastic were distorted and shrinking or loose possibly. How do you guys feel about rebuilding something like that? Would you attempt to keep it true to the original...

@michael webb - great pictures! I still have some left for sale Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Got pics? Dale is a nice guy from the short time I spoke with him once. One of the few people who makes birdseye shafts. Sounds like a cool cue you got there Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Any good vintage tournament shirts, jackets, hats, etc - post them here! What do you wear that shows your love for the game? Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

People have listed a bunch of factors, but mainly, it's volume that's the price driver. Making 1 of something is expensive. Making 10,000 of something gives economies of scale and reduces cost by spreading out fixed overhead. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk