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Which of my remarks about the system is untrue? Seriously, when you first saw the table diagram overlaid with a bulls eye pattern and divided into three areas which require a different fudge factor, you didn't think, "WTF!"? BTW, I didn't mention the fact that it's only accurate for shots less...

Mensa est omnis divisa in partes tres - Poology axiom - Brianus Cristus ;) It's unique in that respect. Never heard of a system that divides a pool table into three unequal segments before. The formula used doesn't predict side pockets. Different approach angle factors, depending on table...

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Yeah, there's many different ways to use the edges for aiming. Equal heights Equal areas Equal arc lengths Equal 'times' And the list goes on.

Here's a blast from the past about an aiming system using clock position for aim points on the ball edges. His clock is a bit small so I made a mirror clock to use instead. The advantage is you only need one time for both OB and CB...

Good luck trying to put a patent on the cosine function.

A clock method would give a coarse (in 6* 'bites') answer as you worked your way 'minute to minute' around the edge of the ball. 12 - 0 12:30 - 15 1 - 30 1:30 - 45 2 - 60 2:30 - 75 3 - 90 You'll need some good peepers to make it work for long shots.

The angles can be thought as this sequence: 15, 25, 35, 45, 55, 65, 75, 90 There're only off by a few degrees and not too hard to remember. The base of the triangle can be overlapped to the center to center line to give the CP also.

Lost my universal cryptic decoder ring. Retransmit in the clear.

Here's the method I use. It gives a good approximation of the cut angle and the location of the CP. https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=472005

But... does it float? I wonder if our resident feathered aquatic would be able to use this system. :grin-devilish:

Hope you can see it better using your pic. It's a real pain trying to show a 3D view using paint.

You could be overlooking the vertical orientation of the balls. I think you're looking at the pic in a strictly overhead view. If you make 'paper dolls' out of the balls and stand them up I believe you'll see the technique better.

Here's a pic to show the technique I used.

Works OK for vc 2 Just spent about 90 mins trying out a CP to overlap method. It felt a bit strange at first, aiming a point on the edge of the CB at the CP, but the process became quicker as time passed. It's geometrically correct so it was no big surprise it works well. Willy 'could' have...

Gonna be hard to find out now. I've heard if you have a supple wrist and play by sense of smell you can become a Valley Table King.

Willie's explanation sounds like he used some form of contact point aiming. He pointed to the place where the line through the pocket exits the OB and stressed this is the place to hit the ball for that location on the table. "It never changes." he expains. Sure sounds like he's aiming at the CP...

Don't bother, the system will never fit in a Shinola can.

I can see how moving the balls as a 'block' down table will increase the accuracy, but if you move the cue ball farther away along the center to center line the accuracy will decrease. I'm pretty sure all the posters considered the latter and not the former.

Drew a blue line between the red points. Found the center of the cue ball and marked it with another red dot. Drew red line parallel to desired blue contact point line past the cue ball to show aiming line. Looks like a little more than a half ball hit on a 60* shot.