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I shoot with a Viking Siege that is 12.25. However, my break cue is a Siege Break 13mm. Many times, I've accidently grabbed the break cue during play and after one hit with the hard tip I realize I've got the break cue instead of my playing cue. They are both 19oz and both CF. Couple of times...

Commentators saying crap that is demeaning and condescending tracks. Usually, they talk to us like we've never seen what's being televised (or streamed) before. It's usually bad enough I watch stuff on mute.

Commentators will never stop talking and will fill every available second with their yapping, regardless of accuracy, or relevance to the situation or game in general.

I've dropped $20 worth of Master's down the pockets...

Also how a player reacts to a sloppy shot. A respectful wave to your opponent acknowledging "That wasn't what I meant to do". Opposed to fist pumps and hollering "Gotta love that APA BABY!". 🤷‍♂️

I recently reclothed a Brunswick with the same issue, however our problem was worse as the bolt had broken off and we just couldn't get the darn thing out. I suspected the only access to the "t-nut" is to remove the rubber on the rail.

I purchased "Video Encyclopedia of 9-ball and 10-ball (VENT)" from Dr. Dave and Mr. Jewett. The first chapter was regarding the break and was enlightening to say the least! I don't get the same results as them on Diamond tables unless I use a rack template carefully with slower speed. If I'm...

Beeswax is easy to install, cleans up, and adding to spots you missed initially is quick. Bondo seems like a hassle if it acts the same on slate as it does on sheet metal.

21 for me on my crappy 8 foot table at home. No fargo.

He stayed down.

I bought the Viking Crush break cue with a Jump handle. Shortly after I wanted the carbon break shaft which freed up the break shaft to become my dedicated jump cue. My local dealer suggested Kamui Sai for both. They've worked well for both applications.

Table turned out great!

Ultraskins and ElkMaster are my goto brands. I've put on Tiger Everest and Sniper tips and those performed and looked great too, simply a bit more expensive, might get a decent deal on those if buying in bulk.

The table was free, and completely disassembled when they picked it up. So no known history.

The Dowel was loose but wouldn't come out. Looked like it was pinned from below to lock it in. Used a Dremel with a carbide to make clearance on the piece. I'd dry fit it, wiggle the dowel, felt the piece moving so clearance some more. Clear welded being careful to not glue the dowel as I...

I didn't get a picture but will post when I do. Older Brunswick Heritage 8 foot table, 3 piece slate 1 inch thick. We assembled the base, put the slate onto the base. Scraped all the joints and surface clean with razor blades. The slates have metal dowel pins to locate everything and we slid...

I got my table for free. 8 footer of unknown make. It is slate, but that's about all it has going for it. After lots of research I settled on CPBA Competition which was around $200 from Amazon. It's been 2 years now with play for multiple hours daily. I believe it was worth the gamble and a...

I took a break for about a decade. When I returned all the Valley tables had been switched to Diamonds. Diamonds don't play "On-System" and you have to adjust. They're fast and the pockets seem tight both mean you can get punished pretty badly. I think it was a timing thing where they designed...

I second Taom at home only due to the low residue. If I play anywhere else I use Masters. No difference in performance.