Search results

Looking for suggestions for a jump cue with a uniloc joint. What's out there?

Well, I looked around for several months and found a cue maker with a metal lathe. My P3 (Predator) has a 9/16" threaded weight bolt hole that is (was) about 3" deep. I purchased two 1/2" drill bits - a spade and spiral and both 1 foot long and took it with me. We started with the spade but...

Dagone that's funny! Hadn't given it a thought about one that would handle english better. Problem is, I haven't seen one advertised like that. Just might hold out for that 'monster' hitter, though. I think I'd rather monster hit them then finesse english them around the table :grin-square:

I'm thinking of buying a cue. Actually, I wasn't thinking about it until I saw this one that said it "shoots good". I'm pretty sure the one I have now wasn't advertised as 'shoots good' and - well - it doesn't. So, that must be my problem. Soon to be rectified with this new purchase! :grin:

Gentlemen, I have a Predator P3. With all weight bolts removed, I would still like it to be a bit lighter. Is it possible to remove (by drilling out) more wood from the butt? Certainly not something I want to attempt and so, if it IS possible, who or where could I contact for such a job...

No, seriously, that was funny !!! That's a good suggestion. Thanks, I'll do it.:)

Thanks Shooter08 ! LOL ! It IS a $1000. cue so, I really don't want to "f" it up. Just want it a bit lighter. Have no intention of selling it and, If I ever do, the weight bolts could be re-added for whatever weight the new user liked.

It is a Predator P3. Why so light? I just like a light cue! I don't know any local cue makers. Suggestions on someone who would tackle this? Thanks agian!

I have removed the weight bolt from my cue and now, it is around 18 oz. Would like to get it down to 17 or, perhaps 16. Only way I can imagine is finding some woodworker with a lathe who could bore out some wood from the butt. Suggestion? Thanks

Hey Skippy27, thanks! Exactly the links I needed :smile:

My bad. It's a Valley table and without knowing, the responders actually pointed me in the right direction and we're working on getting a new magnet ! Thanks guys.

Gentlemen, thank you for your replies. This table does not have a "weight & balance" return but rather, the 'dual track' return and uses a magnet for the ferrous cue ball. This 'magnet' seems to only work (regularly) with the one, old, piece of crap cue ball. During league, the table is open...

WTB - Predator P3 as in pic. No Wrap.

One of our local bar box tables has a cue ball that is absolutely intolerable. It' a rock, old and beat-up (but standard size) and it is the only one that works on this table, going through the ball return mechanism. On league night, we have the table opened and use our own Arimith cueballs...

Leopard & Curly Maple Stripes - no wrap. Happy to buy Butt only as I have plenty of shafts but if shaft is included - ok. PM me. Thanks!

Our traveling league plays on 4 different 7' valley table and each of them plays very differently. Two have Mercury cloth and the others have felt with one being new felt and the other quite old and dinged. Loud music and friendly drunks in all but in my small town, if you want to shoot, that...

Which P3 ? Any pics?

WTB - Predator P3 LCN OR (previous model) P2 Leopard & Curly Maple Stripes either with no wrap. Charlie

Thanks everyone! All good advice. It does, indeed make for a great practice table as it allows no 'slop' whatsoever. Only problem is, nobody (besides myself) likes playing on it. They are all used to Bar Boxes where, if you're close, it drops in. Still, the table needs to brought up to...

I have a mid-1950's 8', 3 pc. Brunswick with the deep throated pockets. In the late 50's, in order to attract more pool players (I understand) they made the decision to make pocketing balls easier by making the pocket throats more shallow. What I am wondering, is, how would one go about...