Search results

He is a Lucasi player and there are no cues like those in the Cue & Case catalog. Maybe they are new prototypes for new cues.

My 2 cents Any tip harder than a standard hard leather tip that really doesn't compress upon impact with the cue ball (and absorb some of the power/energy) will generate the same amount of power. from here on it's all about the speed of the stroke and accuracy. If the table is fast (newish...

I look at pool cues as "functional art", it needs to perform but why not also look good? Doesn't have to be fancy, even a PJ could look great with nice woods

They always looked good to me, except for the big ugly signature

I find it stupid to waste a cue space for a jump cue or to buy a larger case than needed for that purpose. At the moment I have a solution, but if I'll be in the market for a case, this issue would definitely be taken into consideration when making a choice.

The standard JB case pouch is too short for the propel jump cue (even when the butt is taken apart), even too short for my Rhino jump cue with the joint protector. Very few cases are up with the times. When you get a 4x8 soft case like most pros like these days then there is no issue, but if you...

B500 on the left https://shop.vikingcue.com/1981-catalog/turnjs4/samples/magazine/1981catalog.html#page/2 All the Vikings that I know with such dots had clear/window rings so either it's not a Viking or it was modified

20 years ago, if you wanted a good production cue, you had to go with the top American brands - Schon, Joss, McDermott, Viking, Meucci and a few others. Today, you have so many solid cues from all over the world, especially if you go with a CF shaft that you can get a very good cue in the $400...

My cues have various diameters at the thickest point on the butt (sometimes it's not right at the end). At the moment, the cue I feel most comfortable with has a diameter of 31.5mm. Although thickness does make a difference, in my opinion, the weight and balance point are more important.es

I don't have a Ledgend cue, but my JFlowers 10-22F has a diameter of 31.6mm at the thickest point

get a cuetech case, it'll fit in the long pouch

this is great and much needed to get pool on the right track.

you shouldn't sand a cf shaft because it is not needed. CF shafts are smooth and all you need is to use alcohol wipes to clean them if they get dirty and sticky and they'll be back to be as smooth as new. If you feel like you need to sand a CF shaft then in my opinion it is simply a poor quality...

When JB split off Instroke, there was “Instroke Germany” and JB’s “Instroke” I don’t know if anyone bought JB’s Instroke after he started a different brand (before JB cases) or if he just closed it. One of the reasons they split was that the company wanted to cut corners in his design. I guess...

Don’t need any spots, just mark the table

The saying that CF lacks feel is simply wrong! It just feels different and you need to learn it and get used to it. Every shaft, every butt, every tip all feel different. Pros used hard tip on wood to get more power, now they use soft tip on CF to reduce power and get more control. Bottom line...

btw, that's too much money for a decal cue made purely from maple with maple shaft and the cheapest type of leather.

you might as well buy one now for $675, it'll be cheaper than buying it later once they're gone for $1675 from a flipper

Hahaha 20 years ago I would have probably be the first in line. I do like gear and technology but they have to make sense. Before CF shafts and many other options came along, the Predator 314 was my choice, I have at least one shaft for every joint type I have. CF was new to me when returning...

in that case, the answer is simple - They are not common because they are unnecessary. All the claims against CF come from old players, and you know what they say - can't teach new tricks to old dogs... Old players are not a market target, they can stick to their wooden shaft until they retire...