Search results

You might also look at the CPBA cloth. I put that on two Valleys this last year, and it was quite a bit faster than the 860HR on my own table. Stretch index was lower though, so don't just use the same as the Simonis, measure.

Depends a bit on your preferences. I like a jump cue that's light and stiff, so I tend to steer clear of springy or dense woods.

Yeah, Xylene and Toluene were both going to be too stinky for use in an establishment that serves food... We ended up just scraping away at it with something very much like what Muskyed showed. The one Sheldon showed is likely much, much better, but the only equivalent I found at the local HD...

I'm wearing my arms out scraping at least four layers of contact cement on this Valley today. Is there a better way to remove the old stuff than elbow grease and sharp razors in the scraper?

I just did a Valley with the CPBA competition cloth yesterday and it doesn't stretch anything like the Simionis 860HR I put on my own table. The 1"/2" numbers might even be a bit tight. Be sure and adjust for the side pockets as well, the amount to change for Simonis will in no way work with this.

OK, I got into the old lodge earlier this week and took some pictures... Two tables and they seem very close to identical. I don't know where the SN is located on these, but I seem to remember it takes disassembly to find it.

I looked everywhere I could think of on the West State Billiards site, and didn't find any adhesive or stretch index tool

But those don't sell at retail, only wholesale to businesses.

Do you have a link for that tool? I'm not finding it easily with a Google.

I hate to resurrect an old thread like this, but is the only real option for quarts at retail the 3M Neoprene Contact Adhesive 10?

It seems to me like there is probably some play in the threads that would make it advantageous to have a load on those adjustment screws when changing the level, but I haven't heard anything yet from any of the pros. The last pair of tables I did I just used a big crescent wrench to make small...

Our local Elks lodge has two 9' Brunswick Anniversary tables, likely from the 50s that they are looking to sell. They are in decent shape, but not restored. What's the appropriate range for an asking price for them? They also have an older Brunswick 10' snooker table, I expect that will be worth...

One of the tables I play on fairly often has a roll out along one side. I have a machinists level and am willing to dive into trying to get it closer to level. It's an old enough table that the leg adjustments use the C spanner wrench rather than a large crescent wrench. One of the other players...

Certainly possible though it might not be cost effective vs just buying a longer shaft...

I am 6'1" and play with a 31" shaft and a 4" center extension with both my Joss and Lucasi. My break cue just has the 4" extension, but I used aluminum for that to add some extra weight...

Yes, I used that video. The issue is that the areas cut out of the slate for the pockets are quite a bit deeper than the example Diamond, plus they have a significant chamfer on the edge. That, along with two thicknesses of 3/4" plywood under the slate means that the cloth needs to be pulled a...

They are using Let's Encrypt for the certificate, which is nice because they are free, but less nice because you have to update the cert every 90 days. They obviously got out of sync and did the update late...

The one shaft looks like a Jacoby...

The tables I've played on with double facings pretty much reject anything that brushes the rail before the pocket. Very difficult to play on... But great to tighten up your game.

I second the suggestion to look at what Bob Keller has been saying. He is currently using a custom cue where the butt "half" is actually two pieces, giving him the weight and balance he was looking for. I use a 4" center extension plus a 32" shaft and no weight bolts on my two players. They come...