Vertical clearance for low furniture near table (how tall is OK)?

Linwood

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Planning for a new table, and the table will have 60" of clearance all the way around (from the playing surface edge). Might be able to get 61".

Except in one corner of the table, there is a china hutch planned that is low (and not yet purchased). There's ample room to stand and shoot, but we are having trouble finding one that is completely below the table height (which will be 31" not 32" in this case).

So here's the question -- do I really need to plan for the hutch to be under 31", or is it reasonable to assume some angle, and still not get in the way of normal play?

For example, if the hutch is at (say) 50" away from the corner of the table (instead of 60"), can it be at 34" high and still be OK? 33?

My wife is pushing for a wide hutch, which intrudes more into the space. I have blue tape all over the floor for various combinations, but where I am stuck is a practical answer for how high is too high. Certainly 31" is fine -- but is something slightly higher than the table, and if so how much higher?

Angle or an example height, either, would help -- I can do the trig to convert. :)
 

Renegade_56

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a 10 ft snooker table converted for pool in my garage and I have a workbench at the head of the table that measures 54 inches away from the cushion nose on the head rail. The top of this workbench is 36 inches tall, and it does not affect shots in any way. I suppose if you shot a ball frozen to the head cushion with a completely level stroke perfectly at 90 degrees to the head rail it could be an issue, but on the rare occasion that shot comes up we just jack up 10 degrees or so and it's no problem. Congrats on the new table. Hope this helps.
 

alstl

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If the ball is near the rail you will be jacked up a little anyway. I don't see a problem with the furniture. I would strongly suggest buying a shorter cue and a slip on extension. I have a cue called a trouble shooter and a Hagar extension which slip over the butt. It works for me on occasions where I can't use the full cue.
 

Renegade_56

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If the ball is near the rail you will be jacked up a little anyway. I don't see a problem with the furniture. I would strongly suggest buying a shorter cue and a slip on extension. I have a cue called a trouble shooter and a Hagar extension which slip over the butt. It works for me on occasions where I can't use the full cue.

How much clearance do you have where you need the short cue. I have not needed one with my table and play area, just curious.
 

Linwood

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks everyone, I feel a bit reassured. We finally agreed on a console, and settled on one that is not as long so does not extend as far into the cue swing area. There's probably only about half a square foot overlap. I'm already working on lowering the legs to get it down to just an inch about the table as well, so hoping that will work out without needing a short cue, but will see.

My wife is arguing this is reason to get a smaller table, but hopefully we are going to get past that. We had a 9' at the last house long ago, and really wanted to get one again.

Sorry for the delayed reply -- I didn't have subscriptions on for the topic and thought no one had answered.
 

ceebee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
At 2 degrees, 60 inches away is 60 x .034 = 2.040 inch.

0.017 equals 1 degree at 1 inch.

Using my Protractor, it looks like a regular shot may be 4 degrees, depending on the closeness of the cue ball to the rail.

Good Luck...
 

Linwood

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
ceebee, thanks; I love math is it helps remove the "close enough" ambiguity. :)

It's that last part that I know the least about; not having shot for 12 years, how often one is shooting nearly flat.

The good news is that with the less long console, the area where a ball would lie that puts the queue over the console is now almost entirely at the corner pocket; when I originally asked the question we were looking at about 8" wider area (and obviously the bigger the area the more often you are going to be stuck there).

I really need it all set up and a cue stick in my hand!

But thanks - the 4 degrees, if that's a "common" shot, would give me about 2.5" of clearance to the stick (1" for table difference, .5" for cue diameter -- leaving the 2.5" for your fingers).
 

ceebee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As far as I know, you can't shoot flat without a miscue. Maybe Dr Dave can chime in here with all of his technical know how...

Shoot with your good Jump Cue & forget the furniture (hahahaha)
 
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Linwood

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Shoot with your good Jump Cue & forget the furniture (hahahaha)

Yeah... I just want to see if I can actually hit the cue ball and have it go in the general direction I am after all this time without a table.

Jumping is a bit further down the line! (You mean the cue ball, right? Not that I jump over the furniture and shoot at the same time? I guess that's one way to get enough space.)
 

ceebee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was meaning >>> the jump cue is shorter & probably will allow the crowded shot to be attempted & made, HAHAHAHA
 
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