Slick sealer.

Sensation

Sensation

right there
Silver Member
Although a lot of brand new shafts feel sticky because of the sealer the makers applied on them, some sealed shafts just feel soooo slick. I'm thinking of Lucasi or even Players, they feel real slick.

What kind of sealer should I use to protect my shaft + keep it smooth and slick?

P.S.: I know how to clean my shafts and all, I'm looking for a great selaer.

Thanks!
 
JimS

JimS

Grandpa & his grand boys.
Silver Member
I don't use any chemicals anymore... as few swipes w/1000 and 1500 grit sand paper and then just burnish w/leather. The shafts shine after burnishing and become very slick. You'd swear I had a secret polish on them.
 
Sensation

Sensation

right there
Silver Member
I've read many of your posts on the subject, Jim, but I still believe the shaft has to be covered a bit to protect itself against my sweaty hands. After a 4-5h of play, the shaft become more and more dirty and sticky.

The finish on these new cues (Lucasi, Players) is perfect. I'm just wondering what it is...

------

I have sanding sealer here. I thin it with denatured alcohol.
1 part of sanding sealer for 3 parts of alcohol. Should I add alcohol?
 
patrickjuhlin

patrickjuhlin

A+ Banger
Silver Member
I would highly suggest Renaissance Wax, it is the best wax I have ever used bar none. IT ads a nice protective layer but does not gum up and get stick after awhile. Typically I do my final sanding with Micro-Mesh which is super fine sanding sheets from 1500,1800,2400,3200,3600,4000,6000,8000,12000 grit. It is amazing the combination sanding that fine of a grit and then using Renaissance Wax makes the shafts smooth for a long time.
 
Arnot Wadsworth

Arnot Wadsworth

Senior Cuemaker
Silver Member
I don't recommend any type of wax because wax attracts dirt and it gets imbedded in the wood.

The first thing is that you should keep your hands clean. Wash them frequently while playing pool. If your shaft needs burnishing just use a piece of cardboard (with no print).

Your problems are over.
 
2_Fast_4_Fleas

2_Fast_4_Fleas

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hmmm and i was just joking about the wax. hey why not try some lithium grease, or ky will last a few minutes :)
 
SK Custom Cues

SK Custom Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If you have a lathe, sand it to your liking and use any type of car buffing/finishing compound. Renaissance wax is good stuff, but it is expensive. It also has a chemical in it specially put in there for metal. It works best on cast iron surfaces such as jointer beds, table saw tops and fences. It will work fine, but try what I suggested. You will like it. Don't forget to rub with the grain...
 
Sensation

Sensation

right there
Silver Member
The finish on these shafts feels like a coat of lacquer that is slick, not sticky. I would highly doubt it's wax.

I have Mother's carnuba wax here, I used to like it but I'd really like to find that specific finish they put on brand new slick shafts.

[2_Fast_4_Fleas] Actually, Pledge is not that bad of a conditioner.

[Arnot Wadsworth] I know all of that! I wash my hands every hour or so when practicing. And I think carnuba wax is not much of a dirt magnet.

[SK Custom Cues] I have some buffing compound here. I use it to wash my ferrules. It won't do any harm to the bare wood?
 
Arnot Wadsworth

Arnot Wadsworth

Senior Cuemaker
Silver Member
Sensation said:
The finish on these shafts feels like a coat of lacquer that is slick, not sticky. I would highly doubt it's wax.

I have Mother's carnuba wax here, I used to like it but I'd really like to find that specific finish they put on brand new slick shafts.

[2_Fast_4_Fleas] Actually, Pledge is not that bad of a conditioner.

[Arnot Wadsworth] I know all of that! I wash my hands every hour or so when practicing. And I think carnuba wax is not much of a dirt magnet.

[SK Custom Cues] I have some buffing compound here. I use it to wash my ferrules. It won't do any harm to the bare wood?
Click to expand...

If you thinik wax is so great then maybe that's what is wrong with your shafts.
 
SK Custom Cues

SK Custom Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Sensation said:
The finish on these shafts feels like a coat of lacquer that is slick, not sticky. I would highly doubt it's wax.

I have Mother's carnuba wax here, I used to like it but I'd really like to find that specific finish they put on brand new slick shafts.

[2_Fast_4_Fleas] Actually, Pledge is not that bad of a conditioner.

[Arnot Wadsworth] I know all of that! I wash my hands every hour or so when practicing. And I think carnuba wax is not much of a dirt magnet.

[SK Custom Cues] I have some buffing compound here. I use it to wash my ferrules. It won't do any harm to the bare wood?
Click to expand...

Not if you seal it first. Run a pass of cyano over the whole thing then sand the top layer off. After you have it sealed, you will be able to put whatever you want on it. Wax, polish, whatever. The kind of buffing compound Chris Hightower uses in his videos would work well and achieve the desired result you're looking for.
 
hdgis1

hdgis1

New member
SK Custom Cues said:
If you have a lathe, sand it to your liking and use any type of car buffing/finishing compound. Renaissance wax is good stuff, but it is expensive. It also has a chemical in it specially put in there for metal. It works best on cast iron surfaces such as jointer beds, table saw tops and fences. It will work fine, but try what I suggested. You will like it. Don't forget to rub with the grain...
Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity, where did you come across the information about Renaissance wax containing a material specifically formulated for metal?

Chris

P.S. - I would direct your attention to this - http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html
I'd say if it is good enough for the British Museum, it's probably good enough for a pool cue. Any wax free of silicone is good for jointers/planers as the silicone doesnt transfer to wood inhibiting the finish. As for regualr old wax, the harder the better. Beeswax is out!
 
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hdgis1

hdgis1

New member
Sensation said:
I don't think it's so great, that's why I'm looking for an improvement! I'm looking for a shellac - slicky - sealer.
Click to expand...

Try a conversion varnish or nitrocellulose lacquer...

Shellac will soften if it comes in contact with alcohol. And we all know where a bunch of cues end up! :eek:
 
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