Dime Tip too much spin?

Redwing4114 said:

I've switched from a nickel to a dime and on long shots I have a harder time shooting. The tip is more rounded than a regular dime tip.
Also I think that its adding more throw.

I may go back to a nickel but I like the amount of back spin I can get with less power. Maybe something between a nickel and a dime.

Is the dime tip known to do this or is it flaws in my stroke?

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There's no difference in what can be accomplished with a nickel vs. dime shaped tip. If you hit the same spot on the CB, it will do the same thing with either.

A different shape can make it harder (at first) to know exactly where you're hitting the CB - that's probably what you're experiencing.

pj
chgo

P.S. Tips also don't change the amount of throw produced (or squirt, if that's what you meant).

Nice drawings here (also from Patrick )

http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/cue_tip.html#size

Any size or style of tip roundness can be made to perform with good mechanics. How a tip "plays" or "feels" is extremely subjective to the individual. Tips do not influence the amount of throw.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

A quote from Dr. Dave's site.


"One advantage of a flatter tip is that a center-ball hit, with some tip placement inaccuracy, will generally have less unintentional english (and unexpected throw). In other words, a larger, flatter tip is more "forgiving" with near-center-ball hits. It is also easier to control small amount of sidespin since more cue offset is required to create more sidespin, as compared to a rounder tip."

ronscuba said:

A quote from Dr. Dave's site.


"One advantage of a flatter tip is that a center-ball hit, with some tip placement inaccuracy, will generally have less unintentional english (and unexpected throw). In other words, a larger, flatter tip is more "forgiving" with near-center-ball hits. It is also easier to control small amount of sidespin since more cue offset is required to create more sidespin, as compared to a rounder tip."

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The differences between dime and nickel shapes are miniscule (pretty much theoretical) - see the pic below.

pj
chgo

P.S. "Miniscule" means a range of zero difference for a no-spin shot to a maximum of about 1mm (8%) difference for maximum tip offset (a maximum kick angle change of about 1/4 diamond for a cross-table kick). Of course this difference only applies until you're accustomed to your tip's curvature - you can place exactly the same amount of sidespin on the CB with either shape.

View attachment 95882

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

That 'miniscule' difference at the 5+mm mark can be HUGE for certain shots.

Patrick Johnson said:

The differences between dime and nickel shapes are miniscule (pretty much theoretical) - see the pic below.

pj
chgo

P.S. "Miniscule" means a range of zero difference for a no-spin shot to a maximum of about 1mm (8%) difference for maximum tip offset (a maximum kick angle change of about 1/4 diamond for a cross-table kick). Of course this difference only applies when the cue's centerline is positioned at the same place with both tips, which only happens if you're not used to the new curvature. Once you're accustomed to your tip's curvature, you can place whatever spin you want on the CB with either shape - neither one can produce more than the other.

View attachment 95882

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I guess depending on the accuracy of one's stroke and what they are used to, according to Dr. Dave, shooting with a dime tip can result in more unintentional spin.

Expanding on this theory, could the same be said for thinner shafts ?

Your statements are accurate, but for a beginner or intermediate player, consistent accurate strokes, tip placements and cue offsets might be an issue. A thin shaft with a dime tip could be less forgiving than a thick shaft with nickel tip.

ronscuba said:

I guess depending on the accuracy of one's stroke and what they are used to, according to Dr. Dave, shooting with a dime tip can result in more unintentional spin.

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Yes, up to a maximum of 8% more at the miscue limit - virtually none close to center ball.

Expanding on this theory, could the same be said for thinner shafts ?

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No, the difference only applies to different tip curvatures.

Your statements are accurate, but for a beginner or intermediate player, consistent accurate strokes, tip placements and cue offsets might be an issue. A thin shaft with a dime tip could be less forgiving than a thick shaft with nickel tip.

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I don't think the difference is worth considering, especially for developing players with variable strokes. They have much bigger issues to deal with than their tip's curvature.

pj
chgo

Center line shaft placement to the same offset with 2 different sized shafts or same sized shafts with a different tip radius will both yield different results as the point the tip strikes on the ball will be different.

I think many if not most individuals 'aim' with the center line of their shaft. That can be an issue when one is trying to gauge how much offset CONTACT they will actually be getting.

This is one reason that I had preferred a rather flat tip with the 'edges' slightly rounded. That tip shape makes it considerably more easy to accurately 'see' where contact would be made, or at least it did for me. I also used soft tips so that the 'flat' section would impart spin on the ball even though first contact might still actually be at center ball. The tip compresses & 'wraps' to the side of the ball & imparts the smaller amounts of spin.

Just food for thought.

Take it or discard it at your will.