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for those whose home rooms are a SMIDGE too small....
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canadave
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for those whose home rooms are a SMIDGE too small.... - 03-23-2016, 10:09 PM

I just bought a new house and am looking at getting a pool table. There are just two options as to where to put it: the detached garage outside, and a room inside the house. The inside room is of course infinitely preferable. The only problem is that although the room has plenty of length, it's only 12 feet 8 inches wide. I really don't want a 7-foot table--was really looking at getting a 4x8 table.

So I see the minimum room width recommended for full-length cues is 13 feet 4 inches. Obviously I'm just a tad small by that measure--about 4 inches each side. For those that have gone ahead with a 4x8 table under these "just a little too small" conditions, how has that worked out? I don't want to be using a 52" short cue too much.
  
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DogsPlayingPool
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03-23-2016, 10:14 PM

I've not had a table in a room too small, but I've played on them and it gets old fast. But in your case if you are willing to put it in the garage you have a satisfactory plan B if it doesn't work out for you in the house. Of course there are considerations with a garage as well, like climate control etc.

Naturally, that assumes you would be happy with an 8 footer if you were going to install a table in the garage to begin with.

Best of luck on your decision.


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Last edited by DogsPlayingPool; 03-23-2016 at 10:16 PM.
  
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HawaiianEye
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03-23-2016, 10:41 PM

You have to learn to play better position to keep the cue ball in the middle of the table and off the rails.
  
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03-23-2016, 11:55 PM

enjoy a 7 footer or be depressed with the 8 footer. thats life. move or go for the 7 foot.
  
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9andout
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03-24-2016, 02:51 AM

Do MAJOR surgery (like me) and get a 9'er!
Or...... get the 7'.


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03-24-2016, 04:47 AM

It is very annoying (for me anyways) to have to grab a short cue or end up banging the butt of my cue on the wall. I would rather play on a 6 foot British 8 ball table than be reaching for a short cue.



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03-24-2016, 06:48 AM

To figure how much space you need, do the math yourself.

The playing area of an 8' table is 44"x88". A standard cue is 58", plus 1/2" for the rubber bumper at the bottom. If the CB is on the rail you will need about another 4" of backswing space. So the width you need is...

44" + 58.5" + 58.5" + 4" + 4" = 169" (14' 1")
  
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03-24-2016, 06:49 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by canadave View Post
... looking at getting a 4x8 table.

So I see the minimum room width recommended for full-length cues is 13 feet 4 inches. ...
A standard 4x8 table has a playing surface of 44x88 inches, measured nose-to-nose on the cushions. The standard pool cue is 58 inches. In normal play, when the cue ball is frozen to the cushion and you are shooting straight away from the cushion, you might bring the cue stick back 5 inches from the ball on your backstroke. This all means that unless you like bumping the wall, you need a room width of at least 44+2*(5+58) = 14' 2".

Many lists of "room size needed for pool tables of various sizes" seem to be intended to sell you a larger and more expensive table than you will be comfortable with. In fact the number quoted above (apparently from some manufacturer's "help" sheet) is with zero backstroke. None at all. Zip.


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03-24-2016, 06:53 AM

OK, I see the consensus is a no-go on the 8-footer in that inside room.

So Plan B is to put it in the garage. I live in Edmonton, so it gets very cold (-30C) in dead of winter and very warm (+30C) in height of summer. The garage is finished and insulated (the previous owner used it as a studio), and it does have a very substantial radiant heater, but it does have a bit of a slope to it for drainage. I'm also concerned about longterm damage to the table in this scenario: it's -30C outside, I want to go play pool, so I turn up the thermostat in the garage, and that radiant heater kicks in and quickly heats the garage to a comfy room temperature. Then, when I'm done, I turn off the heater and go back inside. Won't the quick temperature swings eventually cause an issue with the wood?

And if so, would it be better for that temp swing issue to get a plastic one with built-in pockets like is found in many pool halls?
  
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03-24-2016, 07:27 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by canadave View Post
I just bought a new house and am looking at getting a pool table. There are just two options as to where to put it: the detached garage outside, and a room inside the house. The inside room is of course infinitely preferable. The only problem is that although the room has plenty of length, it's only 12 feet 8 inches wide. I really don't want a 7-foot table--was really looking at getting a 4x8 table.

So I see the minimum room width recommended for full-length cues is 13 feet 4 inches. Obviously I'm just a tad small by that measure--about 4 inches each side. For those that have gone ahead with a 4x8 table under these "just a little too small" conditions, how has that worked out? I don't want to be using a 52" short cue too much.
For many, the minimum recommendations are already at the "a tad too small" dimensions. I had a room slightly wider than yours and it was a tad too small for the 7'. And 8' would have driven me crazy.

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03-24-2016, 07:43 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by canadave View Post
it's -30C outside, I want to go play pool, so I turn up the thermostat in the garage, and that radiant heater kicks in and quickly heats the garage to a comfy room temperature.
No, it really doesn't. If you are talking about a in-floor radiant system, those have very large thermal mass, and heat and cool slowly. If you are talking about a free-standing radiant heater, those heat things, not air. So, turn on the heater and aim at yourself, and let the air stay cool. Either way, that slate is going to be cold for a long time after you kick in the heater.

To bring a 44" x 88" by 1" thick slate, at -30C up to 20C, would take 1.2 kWh of heat. For a 1500 Watt heater, that's 46 minutes. For JUST the slate, the floor is even worse.

Thermal expansion (lengthwise) for that change is roughly 1/32".

Thank you kindly.
  
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03-24-2016, 07:49 AM

Man I hate playing with a short cue. You might make shots but you never hit it right, the taper is always just different enough not to feel right. If a 7' fits right I'd just go with that one, but that's just me, I know some of you guys have a real aversion to bar tables. Think of it this way, if you wanna play basketball sometimes you have to play in your driveway or at the local gym, you can't always play at the Staple Center or Madison Square Garden.
  
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03-24-2016, 07:52 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corwyn_8 View Post
No, it really doesn't. If you are talking about a in-floor radiant system, those have very large thermal mass, and heat and cool slowly. If you are talking about a free-standing radiant heater, those heat things, not air. So, turn on the heater and aim at yourself, and let the air stay cool. Either way, that slate is going to be cold for a long time after you kick in the heater.

To bring a 44" x 88" by 1" thick slate, at -30C up to 20C, would take 1.2 kWh of heat. For a 1500 Watt heater, that's 46 minutes. For JUST the slate, the floor is even worse.

Thermal expansion (lengthwise) for that change is roughly 1/32".

Thank you kindly.
Oh, okay, thanks--actually the heater is up at the ceiling, not in-floor. So you're saying there shouldn't be too much heating/cooling contraction/expansion damage to the wood/table?
  
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03-24-2016, 08:11 AM

I would think this is generally a bad idea, because nothing involved in this equation was engineered to be used at the temperatures you are talking about. Adhesives for the rails, the rails themselves, the bolt mounts holding them in, I can see them all slowly failing over time if submitted to constant temperature cycling. I would look at the cost of keeping the garage constantly up to temp compared to the cycling, it might actually be cheaper in the long run, depending on the level of insulation you have.
  
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03-24-2016, 08:21 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by canadave View Post
So you're saying there shouldn't be too much heating/cooling contraction/expansion damage to the wood/table?
NO. I am not saying anything of the kind! I have no idea how well your particular table will react to that amount of movement. I was just giving you a rough estimate about how much movement we are talking about (for the slate).

Thank you kindly.
  
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