The break shot

smittie1984

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a pretty powerful break. But when I do break I always break from the center on the rail directly onto the balls. It's an alright break but doesn't make balls that much.

So now I'm changing it up some. I now like to break from the head string. With the cueball placed on or about the first diamond (either side). When I break and don't jump the ball it's a damn good break. But I tend to scratch a lot.

I watched Johnny and Stevie break the other night. Johnny had the cueball on the head string on the first diamon about 1"-2" towards the center.

Another thing I noticed is lots of times when pros break they'll be aiming for the bottom of the ball. That makes me think the ball is going to jump. But their pros and it doesn't.

Basically my question is...
When breaking where should I hit whitey. Where should I aim whitey for (Directly to the middle of the head ball or left of it) and what is the best bridge for controlling a cue with a lot of force?

Now if I could manage to break like I can rack. Then I'd break and run on my first stroke everytime.
Mark
 

PoolSharkAllen

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
smittie1984 said:
Another thing I noticed is lots of times when pros break they'll be aiming for the bottom of the ball. That makes me think the ball is going to jump. But their pros and it doesn't.

Mark, They may be aiming for the bottom of the ball but when they swing the cue it has an upwards trajectory, so that at the instant of contact, the cue tip hits whitey in the center.
 

RiverCity

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
From the 1st diamond on the head string or from the side rail, hit the apex ball full in the face, just slightly below center.
What makes the cueball jump is not a mystery, if the cueball is slightly in the air when it contacts a ball, the ball will continue to jump (the centers of mass are not in line).
The below center hit makes the cue ball arrive with no spin. You will have to practice how much below center, because it changes with different speeds. Keep your cue as level as possible (this will minimize the cueball jumping up) and stroke.
Start hitting a little slower and focus on getting a full hit on the head ball and stopping the cueball. As you get better at this, start edging up your speed a little.
Chuck
 

smittie1984

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Appreciate it. I figured they were aiming for hte bottom to compensate for the cue raising up.

I'm going to start practicing the break with a 9ball rack so I can break softer to get better control but still not have to worry about a cluster.

Now I do understand to use a closed bridge. But I really meant to ask how should your bridge be? I know many when shooting will have the index finger pressing against the thumb and have the top part of the index almost concaved in.

I played around with looping the index finger hoping to have more control when hitting hard. I feel like I do but would prefer to know a better way if possible.

Now I do follow through but when I do I often end up having the shaft bend along the table. I'm not worried about breaking the stick or messing it up. But have seen some powerful breakers do that.

I'll have to mess around with it some

Apprecaite the help
Mark
 

RiverCity

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I always leave my fingers a little looser, and make the bridge length a little longer, it allows for a longer back swing.
As far as bending the shaft into the table, it will eventually harm the cue. I have seen cue shafts snap, get a permanently bent.... and when I was trying to duplicate the Sigel break, I distorted the joint on a mcdermott.
Following though into the cloth is not necessary, if you look at 2 of the hardest breakers Archer and Strickland, they follow through and then pull up as the cue ball is hitting the pack.
I prefer just a straight follow though, and again focus on how good of a hit you are getting on the head ball.
Chuck
 
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