Fill? Shift? (slate screw stooopid)

app4dstn

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i've beat myself up over this one plenty since last night. but i'll take a few more butt kicks in the interest of forewarning all ye other late-night DIY'ers in their basements... (the MDF is the slate backing, the laminated plies are the frame, the solid block is extra "meat"
you're supposed to be screwing into, the knotted piece is the vertical support piece)

009.jpg


i got lazy and should've filled em up before ever starting. that being said, do you think i can shift the slate on the frame a wee bit (maybe 1/2"-5/8") and not have adverse effects with leveling and structure integrity? (if so, i'll definitely ensure that the rail bolts will still go)

or should i fill? and if so, what's best? toothpicks and epoxy? matchsticks? chopsticks? is there a dowel skinny enough for that hole? is there some composite/plastic alternative material? gorilla glue? elmer's white glue?

i'm not sure that i can enlarge and plug... look how close these are? this is the C6/C7 area (middle & end slate, center). there's definitely 2, maybe 3 holes with that kind of spacing at all the other locations (16 screw holes total) (the marked line was put there by me to use as a reference point for my level and is not located at the exact centerline. nor is that groove. not sure how/why it's there, but not for positioning purposes either)

010.jpg


ideally, i'd like to fill all the holes and position the 3 pieces on the frame as they should be, but i worry that any/all ensuing screw holes will come close or right on an existing (and to be filled) hole. so hints as to how to ensure i'll have a target area with enough bite/grab for the screw would be appreciated. but given the existing state of hole-y affairs, if shifting is the safer path, i'll take that.

all insights appreciated, happy holidays
 

Hungarian

C'mon, man!
Silver Member
Best solution is to drill out ALL previous holes and plug them with glue and dowels and then start over setting the slates exactly straight, square, plumb or what ever you want to call it.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
i've beat myself up over this one plenty since last night. but i'll take a few more butt kicks in the interest of forewarning all ye other late-night DIY'ers in their basements... (the MDF is the slate backing, the laminated plies are the frame, the solid block is extra "meat"
you're supposed to be screwing into, the knotted piece is the vertical support piece)

View attachment 368288


i got lazy and should've filled em up before ever starting. that being said, do you think i can shift the slate on the frame a wee bit (maybe 1/2"-5/8") and not have adverse effects with leveling and structure integrity? (if so, i'll definitely ensure that the rail bolts will still go)

or should i fill? and if so, what's best? toothpicks and epoxy? matchsticks? chopsticks? is there a dowel skinny enough for that hole? is there some composite/plastic alternative material? gorilla glue? elmer's white glue?

i'm not sure that i can enlarge and plug... look how close these are? this is the C6/C7 area (middle & end slate, center). there's definitely 2, maybe 3 holes with that kind of spacing at all the other locations (16 screw holes total) (the marked line was put there by me to use as a reference point for my level and is not located at the exact centerline. nor is that groove. not sure how/why it's there, but not for positioning purposes either)

View attachment 368287


ideally, i'd like to fill all the holes and position the 3 pieces on the frame as they should be, but i worry that any/all ensuing screw holes will come close or right on an existing (and to be filled) hole. so hints as to how to ensure i'll have a target area with enough bite/grab for the screw would be appreciated. but given the existing state of hole-y affairs, if shifting is the safer path, i'll take that.

all insights appreciated, happy holidays

Holly shit Batman:eek:
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
i've beat myself up over this one plenty since last night. but i'll take a few more butt kicks in the interest of forewarning all ye other late-night DIY'ers in their basements... (the MDF is the slate backing, the laminated plies are the frame, the solid block is extra "meat"
you're supposed to be screwing into, the knotted piece is the vertical support piece)

View attachment 368288


i got lazy and should've filled em up before ever starting. that being said, do you think i can shift the slate on the frame a wee bit (maybe 1/2"-5/8") and not have adverse effects with leveling and structure integrity? (if so, i'll definitely ensure that the rail bolts will still go)

or should i fill? and if so, what's best? toothpicks and epoxy? matchsticks? chopsticks? is there a dowel skinny enough for that hole? is there some composite/plastic alternative material? gorilla glue? elmer's white glue?

i'm not sure that i can enlarge and plug... look how close these are? this is the C6/C7 area (middle & end slate, center). there's definitely 2, maybe 3 holes with that kind of spacing at all the other locations (16 screw holes total) (the marked line was put there by me to use as a reference point for my level and is not located at the exact centerline. nor is that groove. not sure how/why it's there, but not for positioning purposes either)

View attachment 368287


ideally, i'd like to fill all the holes and position the 3 pieces on the frame as they should be, but i worry that any/all ensuing screw holes will come close or right on an existing (and to be filled) hole. so hints as to how to ensure i'll have a target area with enough bite/grab for the screw would be appreciated. but given the existing state of hole-y affairs, if shifting is the safer path, i'll take that.

all insights appreciated, happy holidays

First, make sure the slates have the same overhang side to side and end to end, that way the slates are centered on the frame. Second, throw out them slate screws. Third, replace them with 1/4"×20 machine screws by drilling a hole all the way through the wood so the bolt will pass through, then put a nut and washer on the bolt.
 
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